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  • On "C" cars with factory fit optional dash configuration, to accommodate the outside or inside/outside thermometer, that hole would be in place on cars that also came with optional Hella 128 fog lights. My car has said dash. Here is a partial picture, showing where the thermometer would have been fitted. I substituted it for a oil pressure gauge.
    http://www.abcgt.com/forum/4-356-Forum/13843-356-Cockpits.html?limit=6&start=96#19477
    As you can see, the headlight switch is centered in the dash where the clock would normally be installed. To the left of the headlight switch, out of view, the clock resides, so nowhere to fit the fog switch when needed. It went to the left of the ignition switch on cars with both options, just like the hole in question. Dealer installed thermometers were fitted behind the passenger grab handle on the far right of the dash, with the fog switch installed in the normal location, to the right of the clock.
    When town/county horns, and rally lights were fitted, things get more interesting. My friend Mike Allen has such a car, with the thermometer mounted at the far right (for monitoring by the co-pilot to check for ice), and additional fog type switches installed to control the horn/rally lights mounted above and to either side of the tachometer, in locations that mimic " B" headlight switch and hand throttle positions. This car was campaigned in the "Tour De Europe" when brand new. I couldn't swear that all of these mods were done at the factory, but most of it appears to have been so.
    Jack (analog man from the stone age)

    Comment


    • Thanks Jack, that was an interesting and sluethy post. As it turns out my clock is centered unlike yours and my COA doesn't indicate anything special. Looks like I will need to weld this left most hole closed. On the bright side it's two less "jewelry" items I need to buy.
      Thanks as always,
      Tom

      Comment


      • Dash hole is now plugged. Thanks again to all who responded.


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        What is the hole to the right of the rectangular one for? It appears like it was drilled poorly. John's car has it but this one from Willhoit's site does not.

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        Thanks,
        Tom

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        • Click image for larger version

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          The C owner's manual is vague, but this picture shows no added hole between the rectangular sunroof hole and the steering mounting under the dash of a C.

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          I use the brace under the steering for mounting (discreetly) a momentary switch for a supplemental electric fuel pump for priming/bowl filling or back-up, but the earlier models did have an accessory socket for various uses such as a shaver, a spotlight, etc. Then again, those didn't have an electric sunroof requiring a switch.

          Tom, a vintage best guess for a vintage reason for the hole under your dash would be for an unoriginal fog light switch.

          -Bruce

          Comment


          • Thank you Bruce! The welding never ends....

            Upon closer examination, The hole in John's dash and mine aren't in the exact same spot also suggesting that these holes are non-original.

            Tom

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            • No accessory socket on C cars.

              Mike
              Mike
              '63 B coupe

              Comment


              • Here's my home brew method for fixing my drivers door sloppy hinges. Unfortunately the riveted on pieces are the ones heavily worn so swapping the bolted portion of the hinge wouldn't do me any good. I did find some decent pins though as my originals were worn in the middle where the door hinge half pivots on.

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                Rather than buying or making oversized pins I decided to sleeve the door hinge. 3/8 stainless tubing x .035 wall.

                First I drilled and then reamed the hinge so the tubing was a slight interference fit.


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                Then I TIG'd the sleeve to the hinge.

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                Then I reamed the sleeve to the size of my standard pins.

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                Grind the height to the original and done. The upper hinge was a little harder to ream because the access isn't as good, but a cobbled together drill extension did the trick.


                I'm very pleased with the improved positioning of the door. There is no movement even when lifting the end of the door. This makes adjusting the striker and setting the gaps way easier.

                Thanks for watching my progress albeit slow.

                Tom

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                • Tom, is this another car or the original from the past posts? I thought I remember it was almost ready for paint?
                  Regards,
                  Don

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                  • [quote="Don C" post=36300]Tom, is this another car or the original from the past posts? I thought I remember it was almost ready for paint?
                    Regards,
                    Don[/quote
                    Ha ha, Yes this is the same car that has been ready for paint for almost two years now. All the metal work is done, but there are lots of details such as this rattly door that i'm taking care of now. All the panels and gaps are finished, bumpers fitted, chrome frames fitted etc. Now I'm painting the the interior black. and tiding up the inner fenders.
                    With any luck it will be irish green next year.
                    Tom

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                    • Keep at it, it will be worth it!

                      Comment


                      • Tom, email me. ifix356@juno.com
                        Jack (analog man from the stone age)

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                        • I feel for you Tom and remember being in the same spot on my coupe. I was just mentally spent and ready to move onto final paint... however the car just wasn't "finished". This is why I skipped fully mounting and prepping my bumpers and hardware before the final paint job. I'm paying the price for that now and only wish I could go back.
                          You're playing it smarter than I did; Keep it up!
                          Justin
                          Justin Rio

                          Comment


                          • Sorry to leave the mirror location dilemma unfinished for so long. As it turn out my Durant mirror was locked up and wouldn't swivel as it should. After soaking the pivot mechanism for months it now works again. As you've already seen the mirror locations are all over the place on these cars and I was unsuccessful finding any factory literature explaining the preferred location even for dealer installed mirrors.

                            Jack and Bruce were very helpful as always getting me close. I installed the pedals,window frame, and seat in the car and verified that Jack's dimensions placed the mirror where I could actually use it. The bolts that secure the mirror are moveable, so I have almost 1/2" of movement fore and aft plus the new drilled holes are a bit big to adjust the angle of the mirror.

                            Hardware made by me....not original.

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                            Long wooden template used to drill holes in door skin.

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                            It's best to reference the non hinged edge of the door since it is mostly a straight edge. Same is true for the height referenced from the door bottom.

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                            20 3/4" from door bottom and 32" to mirror base from door edge.

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                            I'm not saying this is the correct location because there is no accurate definition concerning this mirror location but that is what Jack and I came up with and it works for me. Final adjustment to made after paint and with a decent gasket. The original gasket has shrunk and is as hard as a rock.

                            Thanks,
                            Tom

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                            • Looks great there Tom and most importantly functional too. Just curious, I noticed on the left rear quarter a skim coat of filler; is your bodyman applying it directly to the metal without a sealer coat of epoxy first? Again just curious...

                              Justin
                              Justin Rio

                              Comment


                              • Hi Justin,
                                The filler material and application was discussed and the guy painting my car is a filler direct to metal kind of guy. I trust him, but I did do some research and the manufacture says it's ok to apply to bare metal and lead. He does small sections at a time to prevent corrosion. I know its kind of contentious topic but it's above my pay grade, so I defer to him. Filler over epoxy is also allowed by the manufacturer if properly applied and prepped with 80-150 grit.

                                Here's a pic prior to filler skim coat.

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                                I'm just happy it's getting closer to paint.
                                Cheers,
                                Tom

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