Coupe into Speedster Conversion

[MMW]

I really like the hover 356. Well kept secret but this guy is the owner.

[bbspdstr]

Hey John,
As for gas tank color, your tank on a T-6 should be grey. There was however, a one year only "bottom mounted sending unit" version T-6 gas tank in '62 and it was painted satin black. Jack or Bruce would be the ones to confirm on that one.

I was asked a few years ago to PPI a T-6 Roadster and was told that the car had come in second-in-class at a PCA Parade Concours with a high score. I asked for the results sheets. The judge of the front compartment noted that the "gas tank- wrong color" was a points deduction. I looked and I had to hope this judge meant "wrong sheen" as it was black, as it should have been, with a bottom sender, but with paint as nice as the exterior.
It has been decided by Those Who Count (and I agree) that T-6 gas tanks were black when they had bottom senders and gray when Porsche woke up to that mistake and changed to the sender on top. Doesn't seem to matter what exact build date when the change took place or if Reutter or Karmann, Porsche was still a small company and for simple economics, "used things up."

This thread is becoming the epitome of why I refer to Justin's site as "fun." Gotta love a 356 hovercraft!!! As the youth of today can be quoted as saying; "you guys rock!"

Thanks for keeping it (un)real!

-Bruce

[Phil Planck]

Foamcars tank(top sender) was gray when I got it. Appeared original to me. I took it to local PPG and had it color matched in a rattle can.

[John Pierce]

Thanks guys. Restoration design is having a sale on T6 gas tanks (in black). These are $350 vs Stoddard's grey tank for $500. I picked the RD one and will paint it grey to please the experts.

Sorry to highjack your thread, Justin. Back to our regular scheduled show......

[Jack Staggs]

A bit off topic here. Justin, you may want to group these replies in a new " Fuel Tank Finishes" topic to include earlier cars.

My experience with T6 fuel tank colors is (remember these finishes can be quite old and faded):
Bottom sender, matte black to semi-gloss.
Standard tank LHD cars with top senders, fairly shiny light grey. Pehaps dulled over years,
although I have seen very late C models with black tanks that appear to be original fit.
Standard tank RHD, shiney or matte black, depending on type of tank. At least 3 different
configurations, to my knowledge. No bottom senders here. Conversions excepted.
GT LHD extra capacity tank, Shiny black. No GT tanks observed for RHD, although i would not be surprised if they exist.
Typically no isolation blanket on black tanks.

This is based solely on my observations over the years of cars believed to be undisturbed original installations. Others experience may vary.

PS: On T5 and earlier cars (including later RHD), the tank hold down straps are generally more matte finish than the tank. Unsure on GT and RHD tanks, as these were special order, requiring additional attention.

[JTR70]

Justin, this is the first Coupster version of the hovering Porsche I have seen

But it sure looks better than an old Cab

Splendid work as allways

That's fantastic Per! You just exposed my secret, I'm not really located in Vegas but a few miles north of there called "Area 51" and this is what we've been working on for the last half-century: "anti-gravity 356" Thanks again! Justin

[JTR70]

Sorry to highjack your thread, Justin. Back to our regular scheduled show......

No worries John. I view post threads no differently than a group of guys shooting the shit in person. The main topic starts the ball rolling then one guy might relate another thought or story to it, then maybe another, then eventually it meanders its way back to the original post or subject. We're visiting. Nothing annoys me more than over moderating. Example: "come on guys lets stick to the subject" I remember immediately thinking, "SHUT-UP... BEAT IT!" we're talking here. So don't ever worry about getting off topic for a bit. It finds its way back all by itself.
Thanks Jack, A tank color thread is a great idea.

6/4/15
Conferred with an original.

Nailed down some critical dimensions and details on this Speedster today. Approximately 15.5 inches was the distance from the panels top mount flange to the chassis right at the striker. Notice too these panels have a pot-belly shape to them which I'll try to replicate as it goes.

Distance from the flange to the frame at the firewall was at Approximately 7.5 inches (+or-)

The corners of the firewall are very soft and rounded at the panel flange with a gap.

Went to the shop this evening to try these measurements out.


Green arrows highlight the top of the panel flange at about 15.5 inches off the chassis.

As you can see the new firewall's upper corner is much too sharp compared to how it should be. Once I soften it (highlighted by black marker)it brings right into the panels flange now set at 7.5 inches from the frame as the original showed.


Here is a section of the eventual strip that will mount atop this panel.

Another sight marker that came to me during this was fitting the door top. The eventual strip on top of the closing panel continues "the line" from these garnish rails. The marker line on the striker is at 15.5 inches off the frame. Very promising.

Based on those earlier dimensions its all beginning to fall into place.
Thank god!!! Continuing on tomorrow.
Thanks for looking!
Justin

[Phil Planck]

Justin
Amazing progress. You are so luck to have reference bodies and parts to compare to. I think I would have thrown in the towel with the dash.

Phil

[JTR70]

Thank you very much Phil! You are so right this project would have no hope or chance of ever becoming a car without all the access to original parts.

6/9/15
Firewall and initial decklid fitment.

Rounding those corners like the original to buy more room for a correct fitment with the closing panel flange.

Closing panel mounted to correct height with good fitment at the flanges.

As with the doors before the eventual body must be built around an adjusted and mounted closing panel. Drilling for decklid hinge holes were next. The hole placement was based on this template I made from that original speedster.

We now have hinges.

Speedster decklid mounted for the first time.

I have to give credit when its due. The firewall and hinge boss placement are good. No complaints so far.
Thanks for looking!
Justin

[JTR70]

6/13/15

Rough fitting engine compartment closing panels around the lid.

Slipped the cowl substructure in and lip lined up surprisingly well with the lid.

While I had the lid in a guestimated closed position it quickly became clear that I need the actual cowl itself to find the sweet spot so it can evenly continue the body line. Same as with the trunk lid and dash earlier.

The forward side closing panels were contour matched with the lid in their best adjusted position here.

With the upper flange lined up with the lid the lower flange profile comes nowhere near where it should to match the kick in the frame profile. To do so means those arrows should line up but as you can see they are off a little ways.

Flange has been initially hammered flat in prep for "reflanging"

It was the same story with the right side panel as its been beat back out as well. As I looked at this wavy mess of panels clamped against that lid all in need of serious massage and alignment it became a little scary! The only way I calm back down is to take it one small bite at a time and resist looking at it as a whole. You just can't, you'll go crazy and paralyze the progress.(BTDT)I definitely need more panels though. The next small bite is getting the left striker post set and located for good. Thanks for looking! Justin

[roy mawbey]

Correct Justin a little at a time. I often wonder just how many projects on the 356 front are just hiding away under a sheet as the owner has given up without taking a step at a time.

You have all the experience now to realise that important point.

Good thread to read!

Roy

[John Pierce]

I have no words!!

[JTR70]

Thanks a lot Roy and John! I appreciate your empathy.
6/14/15

Left striker prep.

Wedge receiver had to be installed first.

Excess was trimmed to shape the flange like the originals.

Took some careful cutting and filing to get the relief opening shaped right. Its ready to weld here.

Welded.

Test fit to check for distances from the original posts on my coupe.

So far so good. B-pillar gusset fabrication is next.

This base gusset not only will hold the post in position but for proper assembly sequence it must be in place before the wheel house closing panel.

You can see here that the gusset flange is mounted first then the closing wall flange is sandwiched over the top of it.

Paper templates begin for the gusset.
Thanks for looking!
Justin

[JTR70]

6/17/15

Left vertical gusset section finished.

Gusset shape established after second version template. Ready for metal next.

Flange on the frame will have to be moved over to intersect flush with the new striker.

Flange cut and moved into initial position.

Cut out to basic shape then a some torch heat was needed to stretch that flange into that arched profile.

test fitments began afterward to locate the striker in its best adjusted position with the edge of the door in anticipation of the eventual quarter panel that will mount to it.

Both pieces where then set screwed to lock in those adjustments.

Final trimming and shaping was next then it was welded on for good to the striker.

Two quick tack-welds were added to the front as originally done.

Original tack weld detail

Remounted for another fitment. With this set I start shaping and locating the wheel house closing panel tomorrow.
Thanks for looking!
Justin

[John Pierce]

That area is SO complicated with all the overlapping pieces to add strength to the B pillar. Lots of fitment to get it correct. Great job.