The Resurrection of Foam Car - 63 T6B

[Phil Planck]

Thanks Bruce. Hoping to hear from Jack also. Today I finished cleaning and de-rusting the bearing flange. One of those tedious, un-inspiring tasks that need to be done.



Finally found the seal for the shifter rod and got that installed. A P.O. had replaced the seal in place and did a nice job gouging up the bottom and edge, so I was liberal with the RTV. Not pretty, but hopefully won't leak:


Got the axle tube marked to line up with the bearing flange so hopefully the retaining pin will go in the first time:


Oh, and I did not paint the inside of the pivot flange. That's why I had it laying on the pizza carton so that only the outside got paint:

[Don C]

Sorry Phil, my eyes aren't what they use to be!

[Jack Staggs]

Phil, you can use the rolled pins over again. Note that on installation the splits are opposite of each other, ie, inner at 12 o'clock. and outer at 6, or vice versa.
I wouldn't bother to convert to 9xx TOB. We probably did the first ones years ago when 356 bearing supply dried up, and no repros were being made. Now you can get the correct part for $135. All TOB work smoothly, when the fork and bearing interface is not worn, like yours. Typically, short TOB for 200mm clutch, tall for 180mm but not always. 9xx is between the two. Since the release fork travels on an arc, and the TOB travels horizontally linear, orientation is important. Too tall a bearing, you may run out of adjustment when backing off the bearing as the clutch wears. Too short, the TOB does not fit far enough in the slots of the fork when the clutch is depressed. Either will likely work, for a while. Fun, huh? Tips for measuring can be found here:
EDIT: Phil, I gave the incorrect link. Correct one here:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=589878&highlight=clutch
Different set up, but measuring is the same. You will have to dig through a few pages. Sorry.
When fitting the axle flange on, you may want to put a few drops of green loctite on the bottom facing part of the fixing pin when finished. One out of 100 will leak 90 wt there. In the words of Dirty Harry, "do you feel lucky, kid?".
Oh, don't forget to put the axle boot flange on first!!! Been there...
Edit: DO NOT be tempted to press against the bell end of the axle tube unsupported when fitting the axle flange. It will surely bend, and you will be needing a replacement tube! Support the with a large socket, or some other fixture. Grind a little taper (1/4"?) on the axle tube to help the axle flange get started squarely.

[Phil Planck]

Thanks for all of the tips Jack. I have found a socket that fits inside the bell and firmly on the tube, so hopefully set there. The lead in taper, had not thought of. Will order the stock 30mm throwout bearing like what was in it. It's been a long time now since I drove Foam Car for about a month after purchase when my foot literally went through the foam floor, but with all the wear on the clutch parts, it still seemed to shift just fine. No work today - out bow hunting before the storm comes in.

[Jack Staggs]

Phil, you can fit your old release bearing for measurement purposes to determine which TOB fits your particular application, since the difference between the two is great.
You mentioned that you have a NOS fork that came with your preA. Does it include the shaft? If it does, you may want to use it, as sizes of shaft and bore of the fork can vary more than I like. Either way, you will need to check the free play between the shaft that you will be using, and the bushings in the trans housing that support the shaft. Usually, more play will be found at the bushing near the arm where the cable is attached, allowing correct retraction of the TOB nearly impossible. If significant play is felt in that location, a replacement bushing will need to be installed. Bushings near the starter are almost always ok, excluding high mileage cars. The difficulty is that the currently available bushings is that they are just a little too thick to work without binding, making the shaft installation impossible! More fun. We generally have to turn down the OD of the new bushing .004" or more to work correctly, and even then some honing of the ID may be needed. This was disgusted in the previous link I gave.

[Phil Planck]

Jack
Yes, I have NOS fork and shaft, and the old bushings are out as there was a lot of wear on the lever side. Bummer about the new bushings. I did notice that the Stoddard bushing was different(no split and no oil retention feature inside). I had new bushings for the starter made at a local machine shop, so may have to do the same for the clutch shaft. Thanks for the bushing warning. Bummer.
Phil

[Jack Staggs]

Jack
Yes, I have NOS fork and shaft, and the old bushings are out as there was a lot of wear on the lever side. Bummer about the new bushings. I did notice that the Stoddard bushing was different(no split and no oil retention feature inside).
Phil

Huh. All of the clutch shaft bushings that I received from Stoddard have a split, and a diamond pattern on the inside bore. All original bushings have this feature, (precluding 519 and earlier). Of course, it has been a few months since I have ordered new ones from them. I assume that you are speaking of the cross shaft bushing for the clutch release bearing, and not the starter bushing(s). I have had zero problems with starter bushings that are fitted in the trans housing to support the bendix end of the starter, be it sintered type, or bronze type.

[Phil Planck]

This is what Stoddard shows on their web site:


You can see a larger picture on their site:
http://www.stoddard.com/64420117-1832.html

Probably easiest to order those and rework to fit.

[bbspdstr]

I have drawn the bearing housing on the axle tube with an appropriate big round substantial part (big socket, seal press thick disc of the proper diameter, etc.) on both ends with a long length of 1/2" all-thread. Most Harry Homeowner/Big Box stores sell such and the nuts and washers to match.

Since the average mortal does not mark which pin came out of which side upon tear-down and how it was oriented, mild leakage can be expected if sealer or wicking Lock-tite is not employed. This is also the case if the holes and groove are not perfectly aligned and the pin needs to move the tube groove into compliance. The trans juice can also leak from the tube end or both ends if care is not used and the tube groove's thinness is cracked or otherwise perforated.

Also, synthetic gear oil leaks faster and in more volume than regular hypoid oil. Now away from SWEPCO 201, I install 89/90 and Lucas oil additive, 3 qts + 1 quart, per Eric Wills.

(This information is strictly for those 356ers who actually DRIVE their cars. If pushed into and from a trailer to a spot on a show field, ignore this posting and add no oil at all and trust the assembly lube. )

-Bruce

[Jack Staggs]

Phil, I gave the incorrect link in my previous post. Correct one here:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=589878&highlight=clutch

[Phil Planck]

That's okay Jack. I had fun going through about 30 pages learning about the Alkran and finally found a link to the same post.
Today I installed the .010" gasket from Stoddard to check the axle tube freeness and play. Seems about right, although tighter than the still unremoved left side tube. Possibly with the addition of the sealer(planning on using Yamabond 4) it will move a little more freely.

Put the axle tube and bearing flange in the shop press and got the tube vertical in 2 planes:



Even with Jack's warning I got the tube in about 1/2" before noticing 2 missing parts, so pulled it apart and started over:


I had to install it twice, as was off about 2 degrees the first install for the pin alignment.
With Bruce's comments on the orientation of the retaining pin I cleaned off the undisturbed right side to see how the slit were oriented:




I did not like that orientation so installed mine with the shop vice as a press like this:


With the right side as far as I was going to take it a this point I moved to the left side. Both sides seem to be completely original including the remnants of the rubber boot:


I removed the left axle tube and the differential cover plate. Then removed the differential to see what type of ring gear bolts I had:



Still has the original 10K bolts and first version of the retainer(wire). I checked Stoddards site and they list 3 different ring gear bolts ending in .05, .06, & .07 I believe. Why so many choices?
Tomorrow I will check the carrier for cracks.
Phil

[Jack Staggs]

Here is some bolt info:
http://forum.porsche356registry.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=16465
A little more...
http://forum.porsche356registry.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=36915

[Jack Staggs]

Phil, I hope that you are not using the cast type press plates. They have been known to literally explode, sending shrapnel in all directions, even during relatively low pressure. People have been seriously injured. Someone gave me a few a while back. I immediately threw them in the scrap metal barrel.

[Phil Planck]

Jack
You warned me about those cast plates when I bought this press. What is in the pic above is a 1" thick steel plate I have had for years. But, a good reminder.

I need to call Stoddard on those bolts, as the P part # bolt does not list the 12.9, only the NLA part# bolt. Anyway, have put together quite a wishlist on the Stoddard site of tranny parts. Hope my carrier is okay.
Phil

[roy mawbey]

Phil,

Nice photos of how you did that, Not easy work to attempt well done!

Roy