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OK, Phil, I have discovered that my cell phone can take close-ups, too!
There is a trim-to-fit part at the bottom of a T-6 that extends below the sill, usually with a small 'L' support.
The earlier cars did not have that extension;
Disclaimer:
I did not take time right now to re-read every post of this thread, but I'll try to explain what I usually do at the corner behind the door.
You'll see this jamb is being trimmed and see the total perforation at the bottom;
I'll try to find pictures of the rebuild with a repro lockpost AND a repair piece for the quarter. If we trim the original to expose the spotwelded joining of the multi-stepped overlap and eliminate rust to save it, why recreate that 'problem' for the sake of 'originality? Thanks to a rotisserie for comfort and speed, or just on stands high enough to be efficient, I'll weld the angle joint from the rear with NO overlap.
There were always 3 steps/corners, but they varied from car to car, originally sculpted with lead filler to make contours and 'perfect' gaps. Some original cars have huge amounts of lead, some very little...but most I have worked on have had rust behind, some with only the lead holding things together. The more lead, the longer the rust isn't showing.
It's important to remember to concentrate on the trailing edges of the front fender and the door, as the front of the door's step and the rear fender/quarterpanel's filler is 'sculpted' to mirror that contour. The license to 'cheat' is given by adherence to 'originality' but I also try to subtly remove the causes of why we have to work on those areas to begin with.....like the overlaps of metal and spotwelds.
First, I get the door where it looks right and place the latch on the door and install the lockpost and striker to engage each other to check angle. Adjust in/out and angle as necessary. Seal channel, stepped curves will be challenging, usually, as repro needs more than NOS would....key word; usually. Sometimes, a slight slit gets cut to allow part of the lockpost to come in, but it becomes obvious what's needed by keeping a flexible yardstick or other guide bridging the door and the quarter for reference. Add or subtract wherever. I use Clecos, Tek-screws or MIG tacks, magnets, tape, whatever, to hold and check. This is where I don't want to get too close to "right on" and would rather have a small 'turning in' of the corner so I can build the lead (or the epoxy filler, whichever the job can afford). That is why quite often, original lead is 'feathered' back on the quarter and the depth of the 'steps' are irregular (but smooth).
I have pictures somewhere on the desktop, but it's the time to locate them that's harder to find....but it's Saturday and I said I'd post something. I'm open to seeing/hearing of other ways this is done. Doing this stuff for a long time doesn't mean it's being done right.
There is a trim-to-fit part at the bottom of a T-6 that extends below the sill, usually with a small 'L' support.
The earlier cars did not have that extension;
Disclaimer:
I did not take time right now to re-read every post of this thread, but I'll try to explain what I usually do at the corner behind the door.
You'll see this jamb is being trimmed and see the total perforation at the bottom;
I'll try to find pictures of the rebuild with a repro lockpost AND a repair piece for the quarter. If we trim the original to expose the spotwelded joining of the multi-stepped overlap and eliminate rust to save it, why recreate that 'problem' for the sake of 'originality? Thanks to a rotisserie for comfort and speed, or just on stands high enough to be efficient, I'll weld the angle joint from the rear with NO overlap.
There were always 3 steps/corners, but they varied from car to car, originally sculpted with lead filler to make contours and 'perfect' gaps. Some original cars have huge amounts of lead, some very little...but most I have worked on have had rust behind, some with only the lead holding things together. The more lead, the longer the rust isn't showing.
It's important to remember to concentrate on the trailing edges of the front fender and the door, as the front of the door's step and the rear fender/quarterpanel's filler is 'sculpted' to mirror that contour. The license to 'cheat' is given by adherence to 'originality' but I also try to subtly remove the causes of why we have to work on those areas to begin with.....like the overlaps of metal and spotwelds.
First, I get the door where it looks right and place the latch on the door and install the lockpost and striker to engage each other to check angle. Adjust in/out and angle as necessary. Seal channel, stepped curves will be challenging, usually, as repro needs more than NOS would....key word; usually. Sometimes, a slight slit gets cut to allow part of the lockpost to come in, but it becomes obvious what's needed by keeping a flexible yardstick or other guide bridging the door and the quarter for reference. Add or subtract wherever. I use Clecos, Tek-screws or MIG tacks, magnets, tape, whatever, to hold and check. This is where I don't want to get too close to "right on" and would rather have a small 'turning in' of the corner so I can build the lead (or the epoxy filler, whichever the job can afford). That is why quite often, original lead is 'feathered' back on the quarter and the depth of the 'steps' are irregular (but smooth).
I have pictures somewhere on the desktop, but it's the time to locate them that's harder to find....but it's Saturday and I said I'd post something. I'm open to seeing/hearing of other ways this is done. Doing this stuff for a long time doesn't mean it's being done right.
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