The Resurrection of Foam Car - 63 T6B

[Jack Staggs]

Phil, those Mexi shocks work pretty well, but there are issues on installation with the supplied hardware. You noted that they are taller than OG Boge. Sometimes we cut the tip down to allow clearance to the frame at the top, other times we put a spacer/sleeve/washers on the stud to shift the upper shock body down a bit. 3/8" seems about right. Too short, and it can be difficult to start the top nut, as the lower mounting must be done first, then jacking up the spring plate to fit the upper hardware. I usually use the old bushings (the new ones have a different shape) and find/make a sleeve so that the bore in the bushing has a better fit to the stud, and the nut has something to tighten against.

[Phil Planck]

Thanks Jack

I was able to modify one old bushing by drilling it out and got the Boge bushings from Stoddard on one shock. You can see the difference:



Unfortuantely I did not drill straight on the other bushing and ruined it. Will look for some thin wall tubing 14mmx12mm for a better solution. That or by a lathe.

Slow progress, as too many other non Porsche projects going on, but did get the tie rods finished up with new ends(no grease zerks(saved the old ones)). Bought new nuts and bolts for the clamps, but as a lot of us know, they are smaller across the flats, so ended up salvaging the original 14ATF bolts and nuts. Also, remembered that a set of front springs came with the PreA and found those:

[Jack Staggs]

Uh, I think the shock bushings go the other way, with the wide end against the washers.
Those original tie rod ends (with zercs) are really good, much better than replacement ones, IMHO. Occasionally a car comes through the shop that has a mixture of OG type ends, and replacement ones, with a worn one needing replacement. Invariably it's the replacement one that's defective, with the OG ones soldiering on.
PreA front bars are not interchangeable with ABC bars. On PreA bars, the center anchor Allen bolt relief is on the same side as the the control arm Allens, with no provision on the tubes for ride height adjustment. Basically a VW part. ABC bars have the center anchor relief on the opposite side from the PreA.

[Phil Planck]

Jack
That was just a test. You are right about the Boge bushings being reversed. Thanks for pointing it out. Most of the stuff that came with the PreA was for later 356s. I will check those torsion bars and report back. As for the old tie rod ends, will save for the next caretaker, as I don't think I will wear out the non-zerked ones. At least they are made in Germany.

I found some Koni 14mm x 12.1mm shock sleeves on Ebay and ordered.

Phil

[Phil Planck]

The front torsion arms are labeled with part no: 644.41.020. They have the indents on the same side at each end. 6 leaves.

Phil

[Jack Staggs]

What about the middle indent?

[bbspdstr]

How many leaves, earlier vs. later? I have always thought that 5 (thicker leaves) was the early count (non-adjustable?) and 6 was the adjustable version. (A-B-C)(thinner leaves)...Jack...anyone?

It has been published that broken leaves may be "arc welded" back in place, but I have always had a spare set (from "parts cars")....but as we run low, can a VW bar be substituted, even if a divot for the adjustment components must be made?

Perspiring minds want to know....heat index today is over 100 here in SE PA today.....a joke to those in hotter climes, I know.

Bruce

[Phil Planck]

Sorry Jack. Center indents are on opposite side. Bruce, if you Google "356 porsche front suspension" you will find some old registry threads on this. Even some input from Jack back when the forum was open to all.
Phil

Revised: Bruce - don't waste your time with above search. I tried it and no good info. I did find some good info but forgot the search terms I used. Here is the best I could find today:

http://forum.porsche356registry.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=40959&hilit=torsion+bar

[Phil Planck]

Next to get attention is the ZF box. I bought a spare box years ago, one of the few advantages of a long term resto being you can shop a while. Anyway, the newer box does not leak, still has oil in it, but I cannot find the centering mark. On Foam Cars box, which leaks and has kept the input shaft rust free with 90w oil I could find the mark. No mark on the newer box, which had surface rust that I carefully cleaned off. but figure this must have been it, as it is close to 1/2 way and both arms seem to be at the same angle:



Here is Foam Car's leaky box with the mark visible:




I will put a swab of yellow junk yard paint on it and a fine black line where I think the mark is/was. ZF must not have figured these boxes would still be in use in 2016, as that scribe mark is pretty weak. There is play in Foam Car's box at the center position, but none on the newer box. But, I can feel no slightly tight spot in either. Since the play is minimal, I plan to leave it alone unless advised otherwise.

Phil

[bbspdstr]

Phil, there were a few boxes that had a separate pointer, like a snap-ring with a pointer, on the input shaft. Perhaps Analog Man (Jack) has a better perspective on what time frame/model range those were? There is usually a strike on both the casting and the input shaft that indicates center, but sometime there ain't, like sometimes not every panel on every 356 is struck with a "matching number," ya know?

If you have the tool to pull the Pitman arm, I'd install new seals. Good now doesn't mean that under load it won't leak....it's never easier than like it is now, out of the car.

-Bruce

[Phil Planck]

Thanks Bruce. I don't have the tool. Looks like some have used a hydraulic press sucessfully. Coincidently my son is replacing the box in his 79 Teams Am. He rented a puller.

[bbspdstr]

Phil, if you call me at the shop, we can work something out. Those arms can be stubborn buggers OR like one 2 weeks ago, just pop right off with minor pressure. Often, a little "warmth" is required, even with the "proper" tool.

OR, you can "roll the dice."

Bruce

[Phil Planck]

Thanks Bruce. We haven't talked in a while anyway(Hershey 2015)
Phil

[Jack Staggs]

Yes, replace the seals. O'Reilly aka Kragen aka First Call aka ??? has a free loaner tool program, including pitman arm pullers. I recommend partial disassembly of the box to clean out all the crud that has found it's way to the bottom of the box, chewing away at the lower bushing, shaft, and seal.
Re box center markings: Don't know the evolution from etched mark to pointer, but it seems the majority of the ones with the pointer also have the etching?!??! Anyways, I don't trust them, as I have found quite a few that are a several degrees off from ideal. I proceed as follows for ZF. Clamp the box securely in a vise (most accurate method), or jack up the front of the car in situ. Remove the filler plug. Turn the input shaft until the floating peg nut is reasonably centered in the plug hole. This will be very close to true center. Clamp small vice-grips on the input shaft and rotate slowly 1/3 turn one direction, then 1/3 turn the other way, feeling for tight spots. If not, turn the adjustment screw in a tiny bit at a time until a tight spot is felt at one certain location during rotation. The tight spot is true center. Note position and mark input shaft. Sometimes TWO tight spots are felt, just a few degrees away from each other. This is because the worm gear has a little wear in the center location from driving straight for endless miles (the most common driving position). If that is the case, don't worry, make the center mark between the two tight spots.
Now clamp large vise-grips to the output shaft and wiggle back and forth to feel free play. When zero free play is noted, back off the adjusting screw a TINY bit, tightening the jamb nut each time, until you can just barely feel free play at the tightest location with the large vise-grips. This is the absolute optimum adjustment for any given box, impossible to do with the box fully connected, but you can get close. Of course, tie rods will have to be carefully adjusted to maintain true center of the box while driving straight ahead.
More box info:
While the output shaft is out of the box (for cleaning), try turning the input shaft by hand. The majority of the one I have seen feel a bit cobby while turning, due to excessive preload. I don't know why this is, but I don't like it. There is a shim stack at the front of the box behind a rectangular plate held on by four 6mm bolts.The shims come in various sizes, so a little switching around of sizes can give smooth operation, with zero end play. The peg with the floating nut often seems too tight as well. This peg is meant to rotate against the worm gear any time the steering wheel is turned, even slightly. Too tight means that the peg will scuff against the worm gear before rotating, resulting in flat spots of the peg (a common problem). Does your steering feel notchy, with the notchyness never in the same place? Worn peg. Wear of the worm gear (remember the two tight spots earlier?) can result. Incremental peg adjustment can be had with the eight pointed retainer under the nut. Zero free play is acceptable here as well.
So to do it right, all bearings, races, gears, etc, need inspection. Balls and seals are common sizes, but gears and shafts are another matter. I have custom made replacement pegs, true to size, material, and hardness for $250. Lower cost ones are available, but I have had occasion to replace quite a few after apparent short milage.

[JTR70]

Great tutorial Jack, Thank you!