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The Resurrection of Foam Car - 63 T6B

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    If there was any doubt 356s were undercoated on a rotisserie, I present a totally original C Coupe's front strut with more than enough tar sagging UP.

    I documented this just in case it's newest owner wants to recreate this oddity during it's restoration for the sake of "originality."

    -Bruce

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    • Bruce
      I guess your trying to tell me that it is not too late to build a rotisserie so I can properly apply the undercoating. Or, maybe I can come up with a process to make it look like the undercoat was applied upside down.
      Phil

      Tried to measure the old flange gasket(s) some more, as one piece that looked whole measured .014". After reading about the various thicknesses, while scraping more gasket off I did notice possibly more than one layer, so left the remaining and measured the flange thickness with the remaining complete gasket in 7 spots. Then removed the gasket(s) and remeasured the flange thickness in 7 spots. Avg. gasket thickness was .019".

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      • Thanks Bruce! I am sure a lot of sticklers now will demand that their new tar have runs or sags heading upward. I wonder how many judgement points that's worth at the show?
        Justin Rio

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        • From my experience, it will be a deduction.
          Jack (analog man from the stone age)

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            • I have disassembled Foam Car's starter and it looks to be in pretty good shape internally. Externally it was a mess but is now cleaned up ready for refinishing. Anyone know what T6B starters looked like when new? I will look at some factory pictures also, but hoping Jack or Bruce have seen a few examples of pretty clean ones along the line. There are 4 parts that need to be coated with what?

              Thanks - Phil Planck

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              • Originally posted by foamcar" post=21297
                I have disassembled Foam Car's starter and... There are 4 parts that need to be coated with what? Phil Planck
                Black, like engine tin black, an industrial coating. The cast part, the plated part and the solenoid were all just.....black. Just mask the electrical connections and 'originality' doesn't get any easier.

                Here's a rusty original:
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                Obviously, the Bendix gear and attending parts need to be masked and the part that grounds to the bellhousing does too.

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                • Ahhh, my kind of restoration!

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                  • Thanks Bruce. Only picture I could find in my books was the cutaway car in Conradt's book. That starter is black. I had a suspicion it was all black from the remnants on mine, but it was very dirty/surface rusty.

                    I am going to have a local machine shop make oilite bushings to replace the originals. Front bushing/shaft clearance is.004" and rear is .006". Too much.

                    Phil

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                    • I remembered a 356 starter laying on one of my shelves. Thought it might be an old 2 brush out of my PreA. Found it and it is a 4 brush. Looks just like the one I took out of Foam Car. I think I picked it up at a swap meet years ago. Anyway, looks like it was all black also:

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                      For my next question. I am trying to take apart the solenoid. Read somewhere that you have to drill out some rivets to do this. Are these the rivets for the electrical contacts? I have the 2 bolts removed from the Bakelite cover and the nuts off of the terminals, but the cover does not want to come off. Thought I would check out the contacts, but maybe should just leave as is.

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                      Starter and solenoid were working fine when I started resto.

                      Phil

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                      • From the photo it seems like the edge of the metal jacket might be flanged or rolled over the bake light casing where they meet? I personally would leave well enough alone. If it worked when you pulled it off You know the old saying: "If it ain't broke..."
                        Justin Rio

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                        • Justin
                          The cover is loose(a little) but just does not want to pull off. No crimp holding it on.

                          While getting measurements for John Pierce I found this coin:

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                          Found some info on it here:


                          http://coinquest.com/cgi-bin/cq/coins?main_coin=1632

                          I remember PO telling me it had Euro headlights and KM speedometer when he bought it. I don't have a C of A for it.

                          Phil

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                          • Phil,

                            That is really cool. To think that it may have fallen out of one of the builder's pockets during assembly! Probably not, but you never know.
                            jjgpierce@yahoo.com

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                            • A pfennig for your thoughts....5 of them?

                              Here is a guy/company I admire. He was on the Samba when I was...prior to Justin's site, at least for me; The Metal Surgeon-

                              http://www.themetalsurgeon.com/2011/11/1964-porsche-356c-restoration-part-1/

                              I was wandering around Google trying to find an A model front floor stamping and had looked up 356 A/C, then bumped into the above. Nice work, like most here.

                              Please excuse the interruption and return to numismatics.

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                              • Bruce
                                I remember watching the metal surgeon's work. Amazing metal finishing on those welds, almost like a surgeon.

                                Ref the German coin, I am thinking this may have come out of my PreA which I was also working on last week and had the floor boards out. Thought it was a penny and threw it on the workbench by the starter I am working on. Makes more sense, as 1955 is a lot closer to 1949 and the PreA CofA says it was a Porsche factory car for delivery.

                                Phil

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