1959 356A S/R coupe project chassis # 108625

[JTR70]

Shock mount reinstallation:
Remounted and located back into its original position for the last time. After all the deformation from prying it free, the weld repairs and heat it managed to slip back into nearly its exact position. Some remaining drill holes from the removal where invaluable confirmation.
Root anchor also confirmed it was in the right position.
Once I have most of it plug welded and secured I'll go back with some torch heat to draw the two panels in tighter just above the shock mount here.
Begin plug welding from the center outward.
Plug welding complete. Dressing the heads smooth next and welding up the root anchor to finish this repair off.

Thanks for looking.

Justin

[JTR70]

Wrapping up shock mount reinstallation:
Plug welds all dressed smooth and marked for a later spot weld detail.
Shank root mount rewelded. Gas welded as originally.
This little detour completed and now back to fitting the new closing wall.
Begin adding this stepped flange back in but this time contoured and shaped specifically to the walls ultimate mounted location in the car in relation to its sail panel.
This flange will also need to be shaped to terminate into this corner tightly to close out the wheel well. That up next.

Thanks for looking.
Justin

[roy mawbey]

Well done Justin !

Roy

[JTR70]

Thank you Sir!

[JTR70]

Back to dialing in upper closing wall flange:
First turn getting some heat for a tighter bend (Heeled well over 90 degrees) and to gain a gentle sweeping profile that was needed.
One of many, many test fits. First extra tight bend sweeps nicely enough with plenty of clearance away from the body to allow the next step in the flange to be added.
Original side show these stepped flanges had a much tighter turn in them than 90 degrees.
Second step was added to that much tighter 90 degree bend like the original. Relaxing that exaggerated turn as fitment went allowed this final stepped flange to extend into the sail panel for the flush fit I'm after.
Getting very close. Mating flange runs flush against the body about half way. Marker high lights where I lose the line and it begins to pull away from the body. Ready for another round of removal and adjustment.

[JTR70]

Took many tries but entire run just about flush here.

Just a mm or two more before that mating flange sits flush. All the strength is on the flange side so it had to match up with the body skin before any attachment was attempted otherwise this flange would have just sucked that sail panel skin in and deformed its shape.
Flange now dialed in as close as I could get it; First few set screws added to finally join these two together tightly.
It pained me to drill holes into this body but a necessary evil. Distortion to the sail panel BTW is minimal if any but I'll know for sure once its all finally welded together.
Moving onto Shape/Terminating this flange run into this corner.

Thanks for looking!

Justin

[roy mawbey]

Such a lot to consider and you know now 'when to consider' Justin. So many I feel would just apply the torch ! There is so much to consider all the time make the mistake and its not easy to rectify! This repair has been very interesting to watch. This involved bodywork repair needs much thought to get right.

Roy

[JTR70]

Thanks for taking the time to look through this Roy and for really appreciating what is actually going into making this new panel fit and mount correctly. I knew exactly what I would be up against which why I did everything I could to save most of the other side. It really is a very complex panel and along with it being a new Trevor Marshall interpretation of this part only adds to the challenge though his panel was still a good place to start.

[JTR70]

Finish out the back corner:
This two step flange did not lend itself for heavy reshaping in one piece so I cut it into manageable strips. First was setting the mating strip for a tight wrap around fit to seal out the wheel well and eventual water slinging off of the tire.
Then the rest of the strips were located and tucked in as tight as they'd go and welded.
Newly shaped end all welded up, dressed and heated one more time to tighten up the shape.
Once its all undercoated the final presentation should look factory and undisturbed, thats the hope anyway.
One more section in the done column. Onto capping the front of this double stepped flange run.

Thanks for looking.

Justin

[JTR70]

Finishing and sealing out the front of this upper flange.
A quick test piece to figure out how to cut and shape this cap.
For my purposes Trevor had cut this end well short. Added this tail section on to both terminate into the quarter window opening flange and wrap around the backside of it as found when I dismantled it.
Another test fit. Rolled tail butts into the window flange as originally; just have to build up the sides to finish this cap out.
This new "tail" is a little long but runs along the flange for bit sealing out the wheel well. Some trimming and welding to sides of this cap yet to do but it was taking shape.
Closing up the sides and locking in the final shape.

[JTR70]

Upper flange finally set.
Forward cap flange complete and replicates as closely as possible the way it was originally installed.
Finally got this new upper closing wall to mount and seal into this old body section.
This double stepped flanged proved to be one of the more tricky features to dial in correctly.
This corner should seal nicely once its all welded up.
Now onto the forward flange at the striker. This by contrast is much simpler and fit pretty well right out of the box save for the bottom 4 inches or so where it swings too wide.

[JTR70]

New closing wall just about ready for final installation.
By contrast this side is going to be very straight forward. It fit pretty well to begin with and just had to turn about the last bottom 4 inches of the flange a little sooner here.
The it was onto shaping this corner against the quarter panel for a tight fit.
Another test fit. Upper corner and leading edge shaped to suit. This is getting dangerously close to finally going in for good.
But....its time to switch gears. Part of the interior gusset structure's flange mounts first and is underneath the closing wall's flange. Highlighted here with the tip of that rat-tail file.
First things first. Finishing the forward gusset wall which I had cut out to basic shape from the remains of the old door skin. Then onto repairing these rust holes on the area it mounts to.

[JTR70]

Flanging gusset wall.
Base 90 degree in and trying to mount/shape it into the footprint of the original as closely as possible.
Initial mounting, now onto adding the lateral flange.
Arched lateral flange in and now have my basic part.
test fit and all good so far. The last bit of the upper corner has to turn a little fast but otherwise its good to go.
Shot of that flange section that has to go in ahead of the wall.

[JTR70]

Forward Gusset section complete
Flange adjustments complete.
One more test fit and its all ready to go. Fixing the rust holes in the section its mounted to next.

Thanks for looking.

Justin

[roy mawbey]

Justin, I presume the repair of those rust holes is easier to do if the bolted on section is firmly in place to hold everything in place datum wise. I will be interested to see how you do that.

Well done again !
Roy

[JTR70]

Sorry for any confusion there Roy; no, that gusset can't be in the way when those holes are patched. I just wanted to get its shape finalized before I addressed that area. Thanks again Sir.

Justin

[JTR70]

Patching up the holes.
Making the footprint of the patch as small as possible. Smaller series of holes to the lower right can be easily welded closed with my torch. You'll notice all the pits and divots are topside so it rusted out from the top side inward so there should be no surprise advanced rust lurking underneath the rest of this area.
As luck would have it I cut about 3MM too far inward and missed the shoulder of rear torsion housing flange. I would have preferred to have the weld joint supported over the top of it but it was too late by this time. It will work out either way but that would have been my preferrence.
New patch of 18 gauge cut to basic shape.
Fine trimming and adding in the bend and contour details next.
Trimmed, shaped and set screwing into final position.

[JTR70]

New patch all stitched in.
Welds partially dressed with those remaining lower right rust holes closed.
Top of the frame now ready to accept the new gusset plate.
Gusset mounted for the final time.
Once the wall is in the final piece of the gusset can go on. Note the pin holes in the lower left that need filling. Never seems to end...

Thanks for looking.

Justin