1959 356A S/R coupe project chassis # 108625

[JTR70]

Panel prep:
Basic position and now onto fine tuning.
One adjustment I wanted to make was to soften this upper bend.
Secured to a piece of angle iron with a softer radius and hammer formed to it.
Softer turn now matches more closely with the original profile.
My main reason for doing this is that the eventual upper closing wall flange will wrap over the top of it and take on its profile shape. If its too tight and crisp (like it was) it just screams "replacement panels" when looking up into the fender well; I've seen it and I don't like it.

[JTR70]

Fitting and prepping new battery box wall.
Panel free and ready to begin fitment.
anxious to begin fitting this panel but

Have some remains of both the old upper closing wall flange and original battery box wall to clean out first.

Corner cleaned with some flange remains yet to clean above it but will take care of that later.
As you can see if your going to install this panel as a full piece it goes back very deep.

[JTR70]

Prepping new battery box parts:
Conduit opening backfilled, redrilled and shouldered for an eventual fusion with the end of the tube as originally done.
A few more shrinks added to get it a little better but I've gone as far as I can on this panel for now.
Time to begin getting the new battery box panels that will be used free from the two that will not be used.
Again, the rear panel is the narrow T1 version and will be replaced with a proper T2 version.
Taking off the right side now It will be used but I want it free for a clean accurate fit. Spot welds are secure but they do give up much easier than the factory versions which makes disassembly a less painful..

[JTR70]

Thank you Roy, that is always appreciated! The relief cut was just a work around as I didn't have a set of jaws deep enough to reach that area. Hammering and heating had become ineffective with this panel unsupported at the other end so most of the striking energy dissipated. Crude but this was the quickest way forward. My buddy has been very patient but is chomping at the bit to get it over to his paint shop. As a seasoned 356 owner who has had many cars pass through his hands he knows exactly what goes into the rebuilding phase and yes he is watching this thread like a hawk. Thanks again!
Justin

[roy mawbey]

Justin, from the start with the block of wood to the relief cuts you get ten out of ten for the careful thought and that just super result. That effort had taught me so much. Its the way you approach work that is so impressive. What a great exercise this car is proving to be. It started out you would do all the bodywork and then ther owner would get it painted. That goes back 4 or 5 years is he still following your every move?

Roy

[JTR70]

Almost there
Straightening , shrinking and welding the lower flange were needed.
Flanges reset
Several looses ends yet to tie up but this wall is 90% there.
Bracket mounted to highlight were we started. Pounding this back out flat for remounting shortly.

Thanks for looking.
Justin

[JTR70]

Wall straightening continued:
Began leveling out the obvious kinks and high spots with a little heat. That upper flange run would prove to be the most trouble.
More heat shrinking to continue "gathering up" the stretch. Thought I'd save the original conduit shouldered opening but more trouble than its worth. I'll punch the damage out, backfill and reopen it.
Last hurdle was this bowed profile left in flange.
Repeated heat and strikes would only get me so far. This wall hangs out it space so a sold hit was tough to generate without building a makeshift holding jig.
I ended up relief cutting it along the deformation to beak its back giving me the cooperation I was looking for. Section stitched back together and running straight. Dressing the weld top and bottom next. Conduit hole punched clean and back filling next.

[JTR70]

prep work for panel straightening continued:
All accessory parts removed save for the bumper bracket mount but its spot welds are marked for drilling here. Mounting flanges have been ground clean of the remains of the original floor and front closing wall. Started peeling the upper closing walls double spotted lap joint but will get back to that a bit later.
Bumper bracket mount finally freed. Toughest part was locating and drilling the bottom flange runs with the cellette bench in the way. Missing my rotisserie more and more.
Wall now is now ready for straightening. The metal is both stretched and kinked from the initial wreck and the secondary body shop damaged as it appears to have been both hastily bashed out and used as the push off point to work the other side wall.
First instinct of course is just to take a big hammer and start bashing back the other way but its been abused enough at this point. The epicenter seems to be at the headlight conduit hole so a simple board section with a big bolt was set up to begin drawing it back along with a few light hammer hits under the tension of this makeshift clamp.
Headed in the right direction but again the area is stretched and kinked so this was about as far as it was going to draw back in.

[JTR70]

Thank you Sir!

[roy mawbey]

Well done Justin , keepm up the good work!
Roy

[JTR70]

Tops side gusset installation complete.
All welding duties behind the front beam have gone as far as I can for now. Again, I can't get at the bottom of the flanges or fit and install the diagonal brace with the bench in my way. Even if I could I would not be interested in welding and fitting that new peice on my back; it has to go back on the rotisserie.
Onto the repairs ahead of the beam. Going straighten and save this side of the battery box wall. While it will be a lot of work, removing it and prepping this area to accept a new wall would be just as much if not more work. All those spot welds along its perimeter and the frame panel overlap makes my head swim.
Before I begin hammering it back out all tabs, flange remains and bumper bracket mount will have to be removed first. In process of this now.

Thanks for looking!

Justin

[JTR70]

Left gusset repair and installation.
New bottom into basic shape.
New section tacked in and remounted for another of many test fits. My last piece of perimeter repair section was about an inch short so I'd have to add that tail on as it went.
Gusset repairs complete and ready to install for good but a quick coat of epoxy to the inner surface first.
Top side welding complete.
Brake line bracket soaked in acid to clean the contact surface of rust and now ready to plug weld back into its original position.

[JTR70]

Lower gusset repairs continued:
Plug welds along the top completed and dressed. Seam welded along the suspension flange as originally done.
Followed up with my panel spotter to replicate spot detail as close as I can. Seam weld along the gusset still needs some grounding to even it out further. Gone as far as I can on this side for now. Can't get to the bottom of it or install the diagonal brace while mounted on this bench. It will have to go back onto the rotisserie to get at that.
Repeat left side.
Reinforcement plate ready to install.
Plate installed and now onto the gusset repair.

[JTR70]

Thank you Roy! It was a bit taxing to rehash it all and put it down into text; especially the trial and error phase but I wanted to show exactly what has gone into this car at all stages. You definitely have to be thankful that your car has never been hit hard in the front or severally rusty. Thanks again. Justin

[roy mawbey]

Justin what asn exercise in patience! That repair is so good I recon when finally painted it will look as original. Really well done on that and the photos and the repair text. I bet you went through a lot of head scratching trying to resolve all that and a long time to put down in writing to make sense for us to read.

A great result . I am so lucky to have those area's still original on mine !!
Roy