Upper portion of the splash pan removed. I decided to make my break along the weld joint of my previous lower patch repair. I knew if I tried removing it all in one piece I'd make a drilled out mess of this lower area as the plug welds are a lot bigger and won't give up without a big fight so I thought it better to leave this sleeping dog lie.
Now I have a clear shot at the remains of this wall and all the rust damage behind it.
The nature of this cars construction with all of its overlapping and intersecting layers along with where the rust and accident damage ended up can constantly take you down avenues you hadn't previously planned on.
Had to take a step back to move forward but looking at it here confirms this was the only way to go for a thorough repair.
And a quick look inside of what will eventually be. Cleaning out the remains of the OG closing wall next.
Thanks for looking!
Justin
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1959 356A S/R coupe project chassis # 108625
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Prepping for the new right side upper closing wall.
Went back and forth as to whether to do a partial or complete upper wall replacement. Had it not rusted out in the door well I would have left it alone and just did a partial but it is and so is the metal on the other side of this wall. It has to be repaired in here anyway so the best and cleanest approach is to unpeel this onion a little further and get it all in one shot. This would require the removal of the splash pan.
To get access to the top attachment points of it required cutting back into the cowl a little further. Cowl cut back exposing the top of the splash pan here.
I chose this cut line as it gets me the needed access to the pan for both removal and reinstallation. It is also the lowest point in the body contour and will be a much more stable weld joint. As you can see I'll also have access though limited to the backside of the weld joint for planishing.
Top spot weld run free and just about separated from the remains of the original wall.
I was really dreading the double run of spot welds down its face but as I began drilling and peeling from the top it became clear that the inside run of spots where completely detached at this point. The row of spots along the edge also gave up quite easily. Very uncharacteristic of factory spots even when the panels are rusty but hey I'll take the break when I can get it. Detached from the door stopper base and just about ready to remove at this point.Last edited by JTR70; 06-09-2023, 09:28 PM.
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Not only is the gap on this side irregular but the hood profile still too proud where it had buckled.
This is the under side directly under that area. Can't decide where to cut this out and restraighten or get it as close as I can in one piece. Either way the hoods profile ahs to be relaxed along this run. With the hood in its best adjusted position with the cowl so far the original alignment holes are now just out. Once I get the hood completely established the old holes in the hood mounts will be welded shut and will be redrilled to Locate the hood where it now needs to be.
Adjusted hood establishes where the latch mechanism needs to be. This a bit later.
I'm going to back up one step and prep the right side to accept the new upper closing wall. That next.
Thanks for looking!
JustinLast edited by JTR70; 06-07-2023, 10:49 PM.
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Second hood fitment:
Hinge mounts, latch mount and mechanism all set and now ready to dial in the hood a little closer.
The cowl is the ultimate baseline then the hood is spaced evenly and gapped off of it.
Initial gap is pretty close but have some elevation issues as the center of the hood sits a little high.
This entire side started out low but was able to adjust most of it out though it remains a touch low around the hinge area but pretty good for starters.
The lateral gap down this side is a mess and that is just hold over damage from the wreck.Last edited by JTR70; 06-07-2023, 10:31 PM.
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More peripheral hood mounting prep:
Had to really crank on the hinge to get the bottom of pocket to come back forward but I got a hasty tack weld on it before it could spring back. I'll clean all this up later.
The end result was a near perfect match in resting hinge angles. Onto the next deal.
The other side of the latch had a bent plunger and the wrong rebound spring.
Had a donor on hand this a straight plunger and the right spring. So critical that this is not bent as a lope in it will affect the hoods gaps and resting position with each small turn of it.
A good functioning hood latch off the check list.Last edited by JTR70; 06-06-2023, 09:20 PM.
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Base and latch ready.
Latch mechanism test fitted. The shield for the mechanism itself was bent downward a touch but that was a quick fix.
Since whole front of this car is being reconstructed free style I'm presetting the mechanism as close to center as I can so if there are any adjustments needed after all the welding is completed (which always happens) I'll have as much movement in any direction as this base allows.
Original latch and base are ready for hood mock ups. Dismantling it for straightening was the only way to go .
I'll add the lateral tabs back in a bit later. Onto the next deal...
Thanks for looking!
JustinLast edited by JTR70; 06-06-2023, 08:23 PM.
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Part 2
All the facets were ironing out nicely but I was now wondering how I was going to "square up" that round hole again cleanly.
After some rummaging around I finally came up with a hammer form for it. Turns out the bearing race on a 356 differential housing was just the right O.D. and after a few rounds of heat the stretch and deformation were gathered back up.
One more round of hammering on my table to get the last bit of overall twist and deformation out of it.
Pretty much back to square again. Folding the cap back over into position here.
Set screwed and ready to be plug welded back together.Last edited by JTR70; 06-04-2023, 05:10 PM.
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Straightening out the latch base:
Harvested from the old wall. I'll be back later for that drain tube as the time gets closer.
Pretty twisted and deformed from the accident then compounded further by the body shop's efforts to get it back into a close enough position so the hood would latch again. The shouldered knockout hole in the center was pry-barred heavily as the leverage point .
Began hammering out and reversing the obvious stuff at the bottom that I had a clear shot at but I was running out of road fast. This unit is at least 18 gauge so its of course a bit more stubborn. Just like the previous battery box wall straightening, to have any shot at a clean and thorough result all the tabs and secondary layers had to be removed before I dared to begin hammering on those areas.
tabs removed and cap drilled free so I could relax it open. Much easier to straighten each facet out separately rather than having it fight me as an integral unit.
Now I can go to town on it from every angle with clear access.Last edited by JTR70; 06-04-2023, 05:20 PM.
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Then the hood itself.
Considering what the front of this car has been through its hood is in amazingly good condition. Some minor damage to the mount flanges and substructure but I would have expected the nose of it to be crumpled and traces of being badly folded in the middle but no. Whatever they hit must have been very low. It does have some minor rust and pitting but being how bad the rest of the car was it faired very well in this respect too. You can just make out some pin holes along the leading edge and the hood handle hole has rusted open a little larger but these are simple repairs.
Only damage along the substructure is along this left side at mid-point where it kinked. Again the mount flange behind it is a little warped too but will correct it all as it goes. Definitely never been "gas station Attendantized", this is all old collision damage.
And it is the original hood...625 clearly stamped in. An amazing survivor.
As the refitting and adjustment of this hood goes there will be repairs required on the both sides of this closing panel. Right side pocket torn and tilted back slightly.
But before I begin moving anything I wanted to do an initial mock up to see how bad it all was. The hinges didn't slide into the pockets very easily by themselves so some prying was needed. This I definitely have to have dialed in as it all must mount together as unit with the hood when its all over. I think I have the hinges switched as I could not get the drilled locating holes in the flanges to line up. Oh well, this was just the first of many mock-ups.Last edited by JTR70; 06-02-2023, 09:30 PM.
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Box welding continued:
Then onto the left side. Gas welded on as the original shows.
Then onto the later plug welds along the sides of the floor.
Lateral plug welds complete except for some follow up finish grinding. I'm going to try and weld as many plugs as I can reach on the underside of the rear wall flange along the access hole areas next. I won't be able to weld up the center plugs until its on the rotisserie but I want to make this box as integral as I can before it goes on there and is asked to support the front of this car; Should be fine though.
With the battery box welding being nearly completed as far as I can go I'm switching gears and preparing for the next phase. I dug out all the related parts and components for the hood.
Original latch base will need some rehab but savable.
Last edited by JTR70; 06-02-2023, 09:00 PM.
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Battery box welding:
After welding up the lateral flanges along the sides of the front wall it was now onto adding the reinforcing plates to the back side. Original plate nearly went back into its original position. The spot welds shifted slightly but was most important was the bolt hole alignment. All set and ready for welding here.
Recycling the right plate. Fortunately the mount hole wasn't predrilled so positioning it to match the left was simpler.
Drilled bolted, clamped and now ready to be plug welded from the outside.
Then it was onto adding a lap plate across the top of the corner joint.
Another build detail easily overlooked unless you have an original reference as a guide...
Last edited by JTR70; 06-02-2023, 08:36 PM.
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Thank you Roy, I'm just glad to be getting close to the end of the chassis repair stage. I have just enough clamps to get me by but I definitely need to expand my collection. Agree, having the right tools makes all the difference in the world. Thanks again! Justin
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Justin the final result looks perfect you should be very pleased indeed ! You have such a good selection of clamps. I know I keep saying it but the importance of good clamping is everything in getting the positions correct. Just like the Cellette the correct tool gives you confidence in knowing its right. And hello John, pleased you have found this thread of Justins so interesting like I have . Without seeing all those thought out procedures there are so many area's that would have had me guessing and scratching my head!!
It all looks so easy but.. take it from me, thats not the case at all!
Roy
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Battery floor fully seated and ready to weld.
I thought it was in for good but seating and clearance issues along the rear wall required another few more tries as it needed to be removed for additional fine trimming. The right side snugged right in after one small retrim but the left side fought a little harder. Eventually got it snugged down to the flanges working from the center outward as always.
As you can see I have very little clearance or access to the rear wall flange while mounted on this bench. The plug welding along this back flange will have to wait until its back on my rotisserie. However I'll have to weld and secure it where I can to ensure this box is sound enough to carry the weight of the car as it will be mounted off of the bumper brackets .
Entire floor was now synched down tight against the flanges; now its ready to weld. Double checking the box for both level and square. Its good to go!
With heavy lifting complete on the battery box I was contemplating the next phase. Heading into the next valley John...
These panels will require a ton of final shaping and adjustment before it is over but they are a nice place to start. The hood will be mounted, adjusted and latched first. The adjusted and set hood will dictate where these new pieces ultimately end up. That process beginning shortly.
Thanks for looking!
JustinLast edited by JTR70; 05-31-2023, 08:42 AM.
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