Well after some time away I am back with a new project. I sold the rusty 65 and just got a 60 in that has had most of the lower metal work done. Looks to be originally Aetna Blue not sure of the interior color. It may need the new nose that came with it , not sure if I can save the original or not.
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Im back,,,,,,,,,My Outlaw Build
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Hey Brock, Welcome back and thanks for sharing your build! I'm glad to see that you got into a more sound chassis. Other than the normal rust, the body looks like its never been hit hard. What's the matter with the front end, just more rust or collision damage as well? Looks like your applying an acid to clean the surface rust on the body? Tells us about your custom plans for the car. Looking foward to watching you progress.
Thanks again for posting! JustinJustin Rio
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Hey Justin, the nose has been hit on the left side and now also rusty and badly repaired long ago. Someone scabbed a headlight bucket in it and its all screwed up. The body was bare metal when it left MN but lots of bad weather between there and here left it rusty again.
Pretty much still going Subaru 2.0 N/A but with a VW style Pro Street/Freeway flyer transmissions. Stiffin up the frame and a formed to the roof line cage. Disc brakes but the wheels and bolt pat. are up in the air. Oringinal Aeta blue with Brick color int.60 Coupe Outlaw Project
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Nice find, looks like a solid tub. If the nose is that bad...upgrade to a flip fiberglass front end: 356 A style. Fill in the rear bumper indents. Call the bossman at Rusty Tubs, you already know he'll hook you up with race parts. Check out the fuel cell on the classifieds I listed. They were going to use it in the turbodiesel Subaru EE20 coupe at the shop, but I think a GT style tank fell in the spot.
AnitaWe BUY $ell Trade any NOS green Porsche metal!
Call toll free today.
877-356-8827
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Sounds killer! I see that you have a donor nose on your blasting cabinet back there. Has anyone put a Subaru motor into a real 356 before? I've never seen a picture of one. Good choice on the trans. that was my initial plan for my car.
Just a quick tip: for the flash rust on the body head down to your local home improvement center and pick up a couple gallons of muratic acid pictured above. Just brush it on and should almost instantly clean the metal. Once done make sure you wash it all off ( prefer soapy water then a final rinse)and that it is 100% neutralized otherwise it will create more rust itself. Towl dry the area then blow it dry with an air chuck. The metal may "flash rust" yellow/gold in places afterward but a scotch brite pad quickly cleans that up before primer. I love this stuff and have used since the beginning. I bathe small crusty parts, hardware, brackets, bolts you name it and all done passively while I work on other things. Hope this helps. JustinJustin Rio
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Thanks for tip Justin, that stuff is kinda hard to work with but I will check it out. I have used Ospho before but not the straight acid.
Yeah there is a new nose and a NOS front of quarter patch that came with it.
AFAIK there has not been a scooby in a real 356 so yeah I am on my own to make it fit. The engine and trans should be fairly easy, the cooling system I have worked out in my head but that is yet to be tried.
Got the pans about fitted sunday and today, get the rails started tomorrow and fit them before the pans go in.60 Coupe Outlaw Project
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Subaru powered 356s have been done in both kit cars and real cars. Wanting crazy torque and the ability to run biodiesel, we opted for a flat four diesel, the EE20.
Besides having a turbo diesel stand alone system developed for the owners car here at Rusty Tubs, ( youtube hurricane Subaru, that is OUR engine being tested ) by Specialists Components in the UK. I know we ordered a Subagears flipped ring and pinion. The 912E gearbox and adapter was sold off in favor of the subaru proper geared 6 speed. That was last year, and while Rusty Tubs may be pioneers with a turbo diesel flat four, the Subaru gasser conversions have been done, and currently this one is well underway. This is a friend that updates us regularly on his build.
May help with ideas or build strategy.
ReyWe BUY $ell Trade any NOS green Porsche metal!
Call toll free today.
877-356-8827
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I'm usually the one posting anything, and we are asked to sign off on our posts. I've been on the team three years and wish I could post half of the cool stuff that's been in and out of our doors in my time. The turbo diesel flat 4 is tubbed and insane.
Back ot the Subie stuff...
I can tell you that Mark's car has a 2 inch narrowed front beam(common vw mod) and a raised rear torsion of 6 inches.
Inspiration?We BUY $ell Trade any NOS green Porsche metal!
Call toll free today.
877-356-8827
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Thanks for the photos Reynaldo, a great inspiration! Okay, since this subject has come up the "real" 356's with a Subaru powerplant are coming out of the woodwork. It was brought to my attention by Ric this afternoon that this Powder Blue coupe is also powered by a 1.8 liter Subaru motor and we've seen how well it performs thanks to franks link in the photo thread.
Real 356 body, full tube chassis with Subaru motor. Ric says he has more photos and detials of this car; maybe he'll post a few up if he has a moment. Thanks! Great thread! JustinJustin Rio
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I was thinking they were oil lines at first but after finding out what is powering this car I agree they must be water lines. No openings for the radiator(s) to get a direct flow of air?? If it was mine I'd have some mean looking openings for them. JustinJustin Rio
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Yes, Justin misunderstood in his excitement. 1.8T as in VW or Audi.
A 1.8 subaru is a an old school lump, and it is not a "T".
By the way, if anyone wants a mid engine set up from an Audi, we have a 2.6 V6 with Boxster shift cable set up, harness, ecu, and lots of other goodies for a LOW price.We BUY $ell Trade any NOS green Porsche metal!
Call toll free today.
877-356-8827
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