57 356 A mild resto

[merbesfield]

After doing a bit of research on the 356 Registry I found a posting about how to remove the rear wheel bearings if you do not have a puller. I am sure I could have waited a day a borrowed a puller, but you know how it is when you are in the thick of a project and want to move forward. Here is the link to the original post.

Bearing removal trick

One of my bearings was already slightly out so I did not even have to cut a groove, however one was a bitch. I did a little head scratching bc I did not want to chance marring the face of the bearing hub while wresting with this stuck bearing. The pictures should tell the story, but what I did was bolted some flat stock to the hub so I would not have to hold a third item, the drill bit, against the hub. The bearing was so stuck that the bit kept bouncing out. The spacer on this axle was also stuck so that made it tougher. In the end the bearing popped loose and the trick worked great. Once I got the bearing to start moving, I used varying thicknesses of plate steel between the hub and the bearing, taping the axle shaft. It only took a few minutes to get the bearings off. I used a ziz wheel not the dremel tool mentioned.

[merbesfield]

A quick update. I continue to move forward, though not as fast as I would like, but progress no the less. I have not posted many pics as I pretty much live on my Ipad these days and it is not conducive to forum posting with pics. The battery box is basically finished, it needs some seam sealer and another coat of paint. Most of the front end brakes and suspension are are on the car. My body cart is preventing me from installing shocks and sway bar. Engine is now out of car. I have removed the minor parts in preparation for powdercoating of tin and some new seals. I have to buy a new oil cooler. When I test started the engine, the bypass valve stuck and blew the cooler out along with the seals. So I guess I will buy an aluminum version. Any opinions on this would be appreciated. Engine has been cleaned and is on stand waiting for parts delivery. On to the rear axle. I disassembled that last night and did the major scraping and cleaning, lots of fun. Next up is the cleaning of the inner fenders and prep for paint. Once the rear inner fenders are in paint, I will paint the axles and reassemble them. One of my rear bearings had failed and when pulled basically fell apart. Good thing I decided not to run it like without changing. To get the bearings out I used a method I read about on the registry where you cut a slot in the bearing. Using a screw driver and a BFH you pull the axle out just a bit then drive it back in. I decided to modify the design a bit when one of the bearings was stuck. Entire process was fairly easy and straight forward. Will post steps below this post.

[JTR70]

Mark, I saw your question on the what to do about the cork-float on the sending unit. The cork on my unit is in the similar condition with coating now compromised. Don't have a picture but I cleaned the remaining cork then gave it several heavy coats of gas tank sealer to protect it. Haven't got a chance to try it yet but its epoxy and is desiegned for fuel immersion so I believe that is the answer short of replacing with a plastic float but that was always last resort. Hope this helps! Your battery floor turned out nice! Justin

[JTR70]

Absolutely Roy, everyone has thier own ideas of what looks good and how they choose to outfit thier car. Keeps the world fun and interesting for sure. Justin

[roy mawbey]

I also think cutting a good front hood would be a shame. The engine lids are cheaper and as Justin has mentioned there are a number about.

The front straps are a matter of taste, you either like them or dislike them. To me the front looks best plain.

Looks like you will have a nice car when finished.

Roy

[merbesfield]

I usually don't sensor my work, but this is some ugly welding. Not too worried, it will end up pretty, just going to take some time to get me back to smooth panels.

[JTR70]

I completely understand not wanting to punch the hole in it. I could see where the buckles could be a pain for fill-ups etc. without it. Guess you'd have to "top it off" everytime to make it worth your while. No 20 dallor quick fills. Come on now no sensoring of the work progress Just kidding! I understand your pain, it was difficult enough trying weld and grind on the hoist. reaching down into that trunk well to do the metal work was a royal PIA!!!

[merbesfield]

Not in the budget for another hood and I honestly don't think I could ever bring myself to cut a hole in my original hood. I do intend to do the leather straps, but have a thought that they could end up being a PIA to unbuckle every time you have to gas up or get into the bonnet. But I love the look. I got the battery pan welded in last night, worked till midnight. No pics yet, too ugly to post. Will require skilled grinding to beautify. Welding upside down sucks. I was definitely spoiled with two rotisseries.

[JTR70]

Hey Mark,

Again nice job on those parts! You're right, a nice unkinked, rust free 356A hood is a 1,000.00 all day long. There are three GT items that I am not putting on my GT clone and one is the through hood fill. I prefer the clean uncluttered look which is why I also shaved the hood handle. While its race inspired purpose of quick access I would never put a hole in my #'s matching unkinked "A" hood. Also I have an original 904 gas cap going on my tank and could never leave the car from my sight with that poking through the hood for fear of that getting swiped! This is strictly my own personal taste for my own car but I am not mounting those leather hood straps or the big mesh screen headlight protectors either. The car looks too "insect" like with them on. The leather straps were obviously a mandated precaution during that era but there is no way in the hell I would drill holes in my hood or nose just to mount belt buckles. Again, not knocking those who have or will just my own opinion for my car. Keep up the great work Mark!
Justin

[merbesfield]

I did cold press the drain hat. Super scientific, a couple of appropriate sockets lined up in the press. Took a few tries to get it perfect bc I was too lazy to use layout marks. As for the rib filler, I thought about using the cut out piece, but I had enough scrap on the off cut to use it, so I just cut to size vs. having to hammer the edges and work the metal. No I am not applying undercoating yet. If it was in a rotisserie and I was doing a full on resto I would, but I could not decide which product to spray, Wurth vs. Tar. I most likely would use Wurth, but don't want to spray part Wurth with Tar still on the old parts of the car. Does that make sense?

Exhaust, I bought it from a friend. He does not know the history. It was cheap so I thought it could be fun. I don't think it is new.

I definitely am planning on the GT look, foregoing the oil lines. I talked to my mechanic and he said w my motor it would not be necessary. I have an extra deck lid, but it is rough and not sure if worth the effort to Louver. All my body panels are no. matching so I am hesitant to cut them. A front hood is expensive from what I have seen on the use market. I see that Rest. Des. is coming out w a new hood so that is an option. Are you doing the center fill?

[JTR70]

on the drain hats: looks like you used no heat. Did you cold press it?

[JTR70]

Hey Mark,

Great work on the battery floor and the drain hat! They turned out nice! I'll bet once you flattened the edges on the pressed rib that it back filled what the cutting wheel took away and fit perfectly. I like the painted wheel wells. A nice GT look. I take it you are not undercoating it anytime soon since you have your nicely detailed spindles, tie-rods and sway-bar ready to go on. Did you fabricate that exhaust system?

On your GT panel conversion question: The hood filler is relatively easy to reverse should the day come. If you have your matching #'s lid I would buy another, which I did and have it louvered. They are plentiful so finding one from an A or BT5 car should be very easy. Hope this helps! keep up the great work and the updates coming! Justin

[merbesfield]

Opinions needed please. I am going for the Outlaw GT look, I have been second guessing whether I should cut a center fill gas tank hole in my original unkinked hood. Same question goes for the rear deck lid. I want it Louvered. One school of thought says it is not nos. matching and will never be, but then I know there where many dumb things done to very collectible cars in the 80's that people look back on now and say WTH! I guess I could look for some extra pieces and shelve the originals but that will be very expensive. I know GT Werks does the deck lids and Mike with Rest Design in in progress with new A hoods, but have no idea of cost. I don't see the car ever going back, but even if someone wanted it back, they could do the metal work to reverse the "damage". Feel free to futrther confuse me. I also think Rick sells a fiberglas deck lid w Louvered, but I'm more of a steel kind of guy.

[merbesfield]

I have also gotten the inner fenders coated in chassis black and some of the suspension installed. I also found this interesting exhaust. Anyone seen one like this before. Should be nice and loud. Next up brakes.

[merbesfield]

Time for an update. There has been a good amount of progress. Front has been painted chassis black and some of the suspension has been mounted. The front beam has been notched to allow for a lower stance and all the brakes are ready to assemble. The last part of the puzzle is to have the pads ground to fit my drums. I will attempt to get that done tomorrow. I ended up having to re-do the caps of all the wheel cylinders. I did not know you were suppose to grease the pistons. By the time I pulled the rubber caps to do it, they had already rusted. Now I know. The battery floor pan has been roughed and is ready to be fit. Of course the drain hat was first made famous by Justin. Mine was too rusted to reuse, so I fabed a new one similar to what Justin did. My car is an early 57, so it has both the drain hat and no rib on the floor. All the off the shelf pans are for T2 cars. I felt like the Simonsen pan from Zim's was the best quality and closest to the original in shape etc, so I started with it. The support rib actually has a flat top to it and The pics tell the story. Fairly straight forward job.