58367 The $75 Junkyard Carrera coupe restoration

[roy mawbey]

Nice photo's of the car in 88. You mentioned the sun, it looks a bit like a desert there? Las Vagas interests me its so different from other places, Nevada must have some lovely sights and very long straight roads.

You are correct about music and its effect on memory. I am stuck with Buddy Holly from the late 50's. I never tire of his music. Brings back the days of when I was riding bikes like my Norton.

Roy

[JTR70]

Hi Roy, The photos in '88 where taken at my parents place in the California high desert area about 200 miles from Vegas so same wheather; Very low humidity and spars rain fall. This is the reason that the car stayed so well preserved. Even while being left outside through the late 60's, 70's and 80's. It was never shielded from the eliments, maybe a tree or two for a couple of those years but always left outside and exposed during this time. The car would have been a rust bucket chassis # donor had we lived in wetter climates the way my father kept it. Yes, there is alot of open road out west.
Great photo of your old Norton,(where is the signature oil spot on the ground? wait I see the can of oil on the sidewalk, she was bone dry right? ) its funny a smell, or a song can take you right back to a specific place and time in your life; we are all the same. Thanks again! Justin

[roy mawbey]

Justin,
Over here whebn the first 356 imports from Calafornia started to arrive a lot of buyers tended to think buying a car from there almost meant for certain the underneath would be original with no rust. It took a few years for it to sink in that it a large state and the weather changes considerably from where you actually live. If your car had been by the the sea probably again it would have suffered with the salty winds.

Over here I have receipts for rusty holes in wings being welded up when my car was only 6 years old!!

Roy

[JTR70]

Absolutely, it greatly depends on "where" in California the car spent its life black plated or not. By the ocean of course but also Northern California sees its share of moisture. Alot like the UK

[roy mawbey]

[JR]

Thats great Roy!
Pics????
Dick

[JTR70]

Hey Roy,
Glad there was a happy ending on that garage door project and at a reasonable price! I understand on stuff like that, it doesn't necessarily have to be pretty but it just has to work. Nice to hear your driving the 356 again! Justin

5/13/13
Trunk jamb into final color. The hood must be installed when the body goes into final paint to ensure uniform shade and coverage. Once thats done removal and reinstallation of the hood is always a dicey proposition with a high risk of cowl damage from the corners of a loose hood. So once its painted I made the decision that I did not want the hood to come off again.

Jam cut-in with final coat here. Area will be carefully back taped in prep for final color on the body.

While wet sanding and working the hood in these past weeks I noticed that a good amount of water would just pool in that second step right at the rubber seal. Standing water is my biggest concern though not original I decided to add that secondary drain hole at the base. Only a sliver of it is visible once the seal is in and its more piece of mind for me that this moisture has some place to go other than accumulating and finding a breach to gain a foot hold.

The seal goes on next. The factory manual calls for adhesive as well as the set screws. This black 3M seal bond is perfect for the job.

In continuing with my late friend and Porsche Guru Craig Stevenson's advice on keeping the car as original where possible I have restored and cleaned the original clamps and screws. Had the Original clamps powder coated for extra durability.

Picked out my best and most rust free original screws and washers.

Same rule as before: Grease is the word! Any screwed or bolted together area that will see moisture (like this area certainly will) gets a coating of grease to make it harder for rust to start back up. These corners with the set screws are a perfect incubator. The clamp will also be greased before it goes into the seal to help preserve it too.
Test fitting the new seal in now. Thanks for stopping by! Justin

[roy mawbey]

[JTR70]

Thanks Roy and Great story! Yes, the thrill of actually having the part you so desperately need and locating deep in a long forgotten stash. That's happened for me only twice but man was it fun and exciting to find it! I'm sure you have it bolted on by now. Thanks again! Justin

[JTR70]

5/16/13
Test fitting the new trunk seal.

Just like everything else on this car the new hood seal had to be fitted, trimmed and hole punched before final gluing. I had to be sure that this wasn't one of those troublesome "thick" seals that wreak havoc with final latched hood elevation.


Began fitting the seal on the right side corner clamp. My buddy here in town that has restored these car for 30 years gave me the authenticity tip along time ago: The seal joint (where the two ends come together) originally was always located under the right side corner clamp and sat between the first pair of upper screws. He told me that in the past he had gone to war with several concourse judges on exactly which pair of screws it sat between but was at least always located on this right hand side. I went with his location.

Corner clamp now set.

With that done I moved on down the line putting only mild tension on the seal and locating the next hole with my punch. I chalked the tip to clearly mark the location.

Forcing these screws through just a punched breach hole can be wiggly and tricky. It also puts stress on the rubber which can eventually split it on either side of the screw. This happend with my old seal. My sheetmetal puncher with the smallest dies worked perfectly to create a proper hole.

New seal is now screwed into position and trimmed to final length. The hood had been reinstalled (again!)to check for elevation and final fitment. Drum-roll please....

Just some light finger tip pressure and "click" went the latch. Hood sat just like it did with old seal.

elevation with the cowl and sides also unchanged. This is finally done.

Did the paper trick to see what kind of seal contact I was getting with the hood. The corners were of course tighter but there was good fiction or drag on the paper all the way around. This almost went too smoothly but I'll take it! Up next;Removing the hood one last time to glue and set the seal in permanently.
Thanks for stopping by! Justin

[roy mawbey]

Justin,


Great job! And your 2 main points about the fitting of the seal are so important! The position of the cut under the corner bracket and the hole puncher. The advice on the where to position the the cut ends I have read before but I never seen the hole puncher before.

When I did mine I never had the forsight to lay the joined ends under the corner bracket. I bought new brackets and screws but still have I think the originals which I should haver painted. But they were so thin, the water does collect there especially over here!!

So I joined my seal at the centre of the windscreen area. Its never looked right (or rather professional). And I can't remember when I took the original? off in the 70's where the join was. Crazy!

The holes were of course there on the steel inner rim as as guide, I made a scriber impression through the rubber and into the hole. This probably makes it stress more.

Maybe one day I will buy a new seal ( was it Mercantile you used ?) and try to rectify my mistakes.

Those tips are worth a lot to someone about to do that work.

I attach a photo of the wrong way to join the seal! Since then I have unglued and made it neater but its wrong!

Roy





Roy




Roy

[Impi]

Hi I love this build. Whilst on the subject of rubbers I read somewhere of using dishwashing liquid to lubricate rubbers. I stopped doing that After I found out that most liquid soaps have huge amounts of disolved salt inside. Not a good idea rust wise. I have since started using KY Jelly as a lubricant which also protects the rubber being glycerine based Regards
Armand

[Trevor]

Hood looks perfect Justin, two thumbs way up!

[gkw]

Looks really good Justin. What kind of glue are you going to use?
Great idea using the Whitney Punch for the holes.
Keep up the good work. Gordon

[JTR70]

Thank you Roy! Your car is so clean and nice, I really enjoy looking at it! I know what you mean about the seal joint placement who would ever think to place it where it should be. The new one we put on in '89 had the joint placed directly centered at the bottom. This new seal I just fitted was purchased from NLA over 10 years ago. I can not say for certain if the seal they'll send you today will be exactly the same but thats were I bought it. BTW it was on this old seal that we forced the screws through the locating hole which later created long splits in the rubber. Did not want to repeat that so the die puncher came to mind. Thanks again!

Hello Armand, Thank you for joining and the nice post. I know you've been lurking since the beginning and finally decided to post today. Thanks! Yes, the dishsoap I use to assemble quarter window frames because it won't damage or fog the laminate. Interesting point concerning the salt content but the frames are brass and the couplers are well greased so rust is really not going to be an issue. Especially as it is a one time deal and not repeated exposure. Interesting choice of KY as an assembly lube; I would have never thought to have used it for that purpose. The glycerine base does sound better for the seals. I might look a little "freaky-Deaky" at the store with my 5 tubes of KY to complete my car but I'll try anything once. Thanks again Armand!

Thank you Trevor! I really appreciate it and I hope you'll be making some progress on your car shortly.

Thanks Gordon! I'm using 3M seal adheasive. Theres a picture of it on the page before this one.

Thanks again to all you guys! I am so glad you take the time to read all this nonsense!
Best Regards,Justin