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New welder.. Just got a Everlast 210 welder. In only 6 hours since unboxing and here I am. This thing is so neat I cant believe it. After 30 years of a PowCon 300ST, and a miller 200, and the trusty Handler. I can not believe how much these things have improved.
They make a bunch of machines and had good reviews, and the price was 60% of the legacy brands. So I bought one, with my Blue Origin consulting stipend and OH MY GOSH it is cool. AC/DC, pulse, center adjust, High freq to 500HZ, 2T, 4T, lift start, and it still does spool gun and stick. 120/220 power (the 120V is less Duty cycle)
I heard about them last fall making the first multi-process machine (Stick-Mig-Tig-Plasma)all in one. I thought it was joke. But I was having trouble seeing the puddle on the miller and needed more arc control. The Powcon is also an inverter but 30 years old, DC only no waveforms. So for $1600 delivered I took the plunge.
These Everlast were designed by some silicon valley computer geeks, who wanted to weld, and they did a good job. I ran Arcs from 5 amps to 200 this morning. After using just the TIG functions today, I probably should have sprung for the full big everything all in one machine, and sell all my other welders. Its is made in CHINA but has a ton of German components inside. Well laid out, two torches and complete except for tungsten's and gas. I am still doing the happy dance. Need a new hot glue gun for metal I recommend looking at Everlast.
Pushed around since 1966.
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24" JACK Mod. Cheap motor cycle Jack into a 356 engine installer..
Bob took a Motorcycle Jack and extended it 9 inches and made a larger pad with tilt adjust to remove aircooled engines.. My good old 2 ton floor Jack always worked but, I always wanted more lift. It has a wider stance and foot pump so I can look at the main shaft and clutch as I lift. So new welder needs some run time and presto Jack mod.
Extended the base and arms by 9" for the lift, Larger engine pad that tilts to match the transmission.
Low slung to clear the bumper,
Adjusting table tilt knob from 3/8 plate for older fingers to grab
24" lift. Foot pump, 4 swivel casters and very stable. Hazard and fraud sells a similar Jack, easy mod and works very well, go get one
9/8/18 design update..... Extend the Jack by 13" not the 9 as we did. It works great for in and out of the car. But does not raise quite high enough to plug into the engine stand. 2 more inches would be fine but 4" more is probably better . Also we cut out the table center a little bigger than the oil sump cover, so the engine sits on the table flat and the sump extends through the hole.
And fits the run in bench
Will raise the engine into the car with it as high as the Jack stands will raise the car. We have 5" of clearence under the body to slide the fan. The tilt table allows you to pitch down to clear the heater tube and generator nut. The four swivel casters allow the engine make it easy to center. We installed this one with the carbs on. Had to remove the muffler because of the #3&4 header pipe clearence with the body. But the engine went in easier than it came out.
You can pump with your foot, hold onto the shroud and pitch the table with out moving. It's sits flat in the table so no rocking. The up/down valve is also foot operated. And the hight locks with the direction valve lever full down. So you can press all the way down on the up/down lever and it hold the hight, let you foot up a little and it creeps down very slowly. Same with lifting, you can press on the pump pedal and raise it slowly and push in engine in and it comes up. You can stop adjust the table angle to match the trans and the engine slides back in. This was the easiest install I have done in 40 years. The engine was tuned up on the test stand, it went back in adjusted and ready to run.Pushed around since 1966.
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Everyone's familiar with these stretcher/shrinker jaws I'm sure.
Me included, but a buddy loaned me his to make some compound shaped flanges for my Toyota build. I never used them before but man I can't see being without them now.
They work like magic!
Clear shot of the manufacture for anyone interested.Justin Rio
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Thoes and a good bead roller you can make almost anything. When you get yours get the foot power stand, using the handle works but a foot pedal is much easier. We made a removable mount to attach it to the side of a HF English Wheel.
If you have not watched Lazze it's worth the time
https://youtu.be/a7Jt0PvMrZgPushed around since 1966.
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Hi JOP,
thanks!
Well, those "Boys" help a lot, indeed.
Shrinking and stretching up to 6mm...
And very universal with the different tools.
I was very lucky to find them.
But the pullmax is also a very strong machine!
I think you use it very often, right?
You're always welcome for a visit!
Gerdwww.breuer.shop
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Repost the fireball squares.
Aluminum or cast iron.
They are really cool, the tabs allow you to hold things in two planes at once. The corner are open so you can weld, vise grips go through the slots.
Very well made and accurately in 8" & 12".3 PhotosPushed around since 1966.
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Hello all,
I am posting a process that may help some with plugging rust holes. The video tells it all, but basically Streetneat on Youtube drills a hole with a step drill, welds a stud from a stud welder on a square piece of 20 guage, or semi rounded with cutters, then runs a drill against a belt sander to make the circular patch the same size as the step drill hole.
Here is the link to the video:
A quick tech video on one of my patch making techniques I came up with and have perfected. I hope you find it useful.
Tom
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