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Well done Tony, its nice when you really find the problem, those idle jets on Zeniths do locate so easily bits and pieces. I even found a mosquito in one of mine a while back!
I actually used the 356 as my daily driver for a while last fall.
Then my band went on tour for 6 weeks and when I got back, the carbs were leaking so bad it wouldn't even start.
So I pulled the motor out to clean it up as well as the engine compartment and address the bad tranny mount.
I used a wire brush and sand paper on the rust in the engine compartment, then applied some Napa/Permatex rust converter. Afterwards, applied some seam sealer then I primed and painted it black, but then decided to apply some rubberized coating.
The rubber on the drivers side trans mount was completely ripped apart. I cleaned it up and welded in some square tubing. I'm hoping that will not cause too much stress on the trans. It still has one rubber mount so it can flex some.
I cleaned up underneath the car some as well, in the rear.
And here is a pic if the motor just for fun.
I'm picking up a VW 1776 in a few days that I am thinking of putting in the 356. That way I don't have to worry about breaking the porsche motor or fixing the carbs for now. It also smokes after sitting for a few days.
Thanks for the link.
Unfortunately, money is a big issue now.
I have quit my band and started a new business with internet marketing.
It is going well, but I still have several months to go before I am making a comfortable monthly income, then I have debt to repay.
Hey Tony,
Glad to see you back on it! A lot of race cars go solid trans and motor mounts for performance but there is a trade off. The original rubber mounts insulate and dampen engine vibration and noise from transferring through the car and into the cabin. What your going to notice with your stand-in repair is that the car will sound a lot more noisy and feel rougher than it did before. I know money gets tight but your piece of mind and a more enjoyable driving experience is a worthy investment. Engine compartment looks good! The VW powerplant would make for a killer upgrade. Justin
Well, I got 356 motor (not the vw) cleaned up, painted, and put back in the car.
Could someone explain to me how the oil filter/canister works?
It fired right up, but oil is not draining out of the oil filter back into the engine. It is being forced up through the lid on the filter canister.
I assume oil is pumped into the canister via the hose on the top/side and drains back down into the motor through the filter.
I can't figure out what path it's supposed to take inside the canister, and I don't see anything strange or clogged.
Tony,
Look at the picture and you see how cold/warm oil travel thru engine.
Oil in on top/side of oilfilter and then thru filter.... I hope it helps you some
Thanks,
I don't see how the oil is supposed to go through the filter and into the tube that goes down and out of the bottom of the canister.
The lid bolts into the top of the tube so I can't figure out where the oil is supposed to enter the tube.
Look at this picture and read the text.
Could you inspect inside the canister for cleaness and also on the middle tube for inlets!
Also you might what to check your oil lines....if they are way old it might be time to change them.
If you remove the lower oil line and inspect and maybe just blow some air true it to check passage
I have never encountered your "stop" of oilflow before...
Good luck
Ahh there is a tiny hole in the center shaft that I found, thanks to the diagram there.
I blew out the tube and replaced the rubber oring with a paper gasket that came with a new filter and it no longer leaks oil.
It runs like crap, so now to adjust the valves, ignition and carbs!
So Tony you are on your way to get it running perfect.....well almost
But all the small things needs to be attended too after years of neglect.
Good luck and do ask again IF something is weired and not functioned as it should.
/ Per
Well, I've made some good progress in the last 6 months.
I pretty much drive the car daily now.
I sprayed the car with rattle can chalk board paint.
Here is it on Thanksgiving of last year, with my family drawing on it.
Some of the stuff I've done, so I have it documented:
I've had to replace the starter again.
Helicolied the passenger carb fuel line inlet as well as body threads where the top screws on.
No gas leaks for a while now!
Replaced the upper seal in the steering box.
Fixed the interior light so it turns on when the door opens.
Painted 3 wheels.... still need to do that last one.
Tried once again to fix the rear driver's axle seal at the drum... with no success.
Put a new clutch, pressure plate and throw out in the car. The old throw out was seized and had nearly ground the fingers off the old pressure plate.
Replaced the blinker switch... ouch $.
Figured out the front wheel cylinders were all on backwards and switched them around. Stopped much better, but now they are leaking on the passenger side. Will rebuild those cylinders soon. I'm sure they are backwards in the rear also.
Today I fixed the license plate light, oil pressure light and replaced the shifter guide bushing!
It needs a little adjusting but I can shift like a normal car now! There was no bushing at all when I got the car and I shoved some washers up under the mount to make it work. Feels so much better now.
The headlights have pointed way up since I've had the car and I couldn't even tell the headlights were on at night. I was never able to adjust them, so I took them apart and found the clips on the inside were all bent up.
There's been an old vw headlight sitting in the garage for 20+ years. I grabbed it and stole the clips off of it and was able to adjust my headlights so they shine on the ground. WOW!!
I lowered the car in the front by the torsion bar adjusters, but it sits 2 inches higher on the drivers side. Replaced the shocks, cut the bump stop, but nothing made a difference.
It looks like the control arms both sit at the same angle and have the same movement.
I put two jack stands under the front tube so it was as level as I could get it then measured everywhere I could measure, and I think the chassis just might be twisted. Not sure what to do about that.
My next plans are to replace the rear main and crank pulley seal and see if I can't get it to stop leaking oil. Replace the trans shifter seal. Rebuild the front wheel cylinders.
Check the back brakes and see if the wheel cylinders are backwards and figure out why the parking brake doesn't work. Lower the rear a spline or two.
Then it should be a pretty solid, good looking driver.
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As I said, I painted it with chalk board paint and it really gets a ton of attention now.
I'll take it places and leave chalk on it and just let people draw all over it. Then I go through the car wash and it's clean again.
Here are a few pics.
Good work Tony,
Nice you got your 356 rolling again
I do like the color ...it must be fun for people to be allowed to write and draw on it.
Atleast it is not a garage queen that only comes out on a rainfree sunday...
It is better like you do to drive and sort out minor faults.
Keep working on her.
/Per
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