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Sorry about that Phil. Sometimes the system will drop the attachments if too many are loaded all at once. 3-4 photos at a time seems to be the most trouble free. Hit edit on that post and try loading a few at a time once again. Click into the text box and erase the existing attachment marker then hit insert once again to replace it with your second attempt. Hope that made sense. Keep up the great progress and Jack thank you (and Bruce)again for sharing with us all of your years of hard won knowledge from the University of busted knuckles. Your last few entries really convey that, at least to me. Techniques and warnings that you're just not going to find in the Elfrink manual; only through years of wrestling with these cars first hand.
Justin
Boy was I unhappy NOT to be able to see your picture tutorial of Jack's secrets
I took your advise and printed Jack's Notes for my 356 Tech Book.
(Jack, will you give out a complete book with all your gathered 356 secrets? I'd like to preorder.... I guess you can do it with Justin when he is releasing his " Build your own Speedster" )
It is such a great site with alot of 356 Tech & Tips.
So correct a book by Justin, Jack and Bruce with additional info from Phil and others on all the info you can NEVER find in any book when you want it!!! I would add a few comments on starter motors just wish I had been brave enough to actually solve the problem myself. The pure delight of a motor that turns over so fast hot or cold is a delight to hear every time I turn the key.
[quote="roy mawbey" post=35506]So correct a book by Justin, Jack and Bruce with additional info from Phil and others on all the info you can NEVER find in any book when you want it!!! I would add a few comments on starter motors just wish I had been brave enough to actually solve the problem myself. The pure delight of a motor that turns over so fast hot or cold is a delight to hear every time I turn the key.
Roy[/quote
Roy, do tell! Yes it is so frustrating and embarrassing when your beautiful Porsche doesn't won't to start and sounds like an old tractor.
Mark Erbesfield
57 356A
65 911
68 912
73 911S
66 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ45LV
79 450SL Dad's old car
This morning I got the deformed pin perimeter round again and developed a new, faster technique to shorten the bushing. I moved the grinding wheel to the perimeter of the hole and went in a slow circular motion around the perimeter. This showed when the wheel started kissing the housing. Just a light pressure on the drill press arm. The machinist's 1-2-3 block helped as it is very smooth for sliding the knuckle on and it helps raise up the assembly for clearance.
Here is what it looks like after grinding down and kissing the housing:
Since I don't know if the knuckle was square to the bushing, I will still use the pin with some finer grit emory paper to do the final "truing".
Okay Jack, what is the length of a virgin bushing? I had to remove between .5- 1.5mml from some of them, so will need to add more shims to the stack. The original length will tell me how many I need to add for each pin.
Phil, I usually do the filing/machine work on the inboard side, where there is no recess to deal with. Its also the side that seems to be more prone to gouging and wearing on an angle.
"On PreA, the steering knuckle (that's the part that the link pin bushings fit in to) is a direct replacement VW part. Later 356 used a VW part that is slightly modified. The modification for 356 removed the flange on the inner side, where the shims fit in a recess next to the trailing arms. Outer sides retained the recess on 356. This modification allowed the use of the rubber sleeve that holds water in the shims, per Bruce."
Perhaps its not clear enough though. You may find some pics in the factory manual that show what I am referring to.
Sorry Jack - Short term memory going to hell I guess. I did read your earlier post but did not catch that. Well, I must have VW parts as recesses on both sides and PM(previous mechanic) used the later rubber seal with that setup. So, do I grind those off, or just leave it?
Sorry you head to rewrite yourself.
Called Jack yesterday and had a good conversation. Bottom line is to treat this like a PreA and can't use the square orings or special washers. How someone got those installed on Foam Car is beyond me. I think all of the front suspension and steering parts are now ready to install. Bit the bullet and sprayed the 3M undercoat on the front end panels. Only issue I had was not shaking the bottle long enough, as there was too much thick stuff at the bottom and the gun plug up on my test board. After that was remedied all went pretty well. I picked up a 2nd fresh bottle a few days ago in case I ran out mid spraying, which I did. Used 1 1/2 bottles to do back to the floor pan. Will pick up 2 more which should be enough for the pan, longitudinals, etc. The inside of the fenders and quarters will have to wait until hammer/dolly and leading are finished.
Inner nose panel was with the new bottle and sprayed a little different, but will be covered by the nose:
Will let this set up a few days before re-assembly of the steering/suspension.
As far as safety, I opened up all the shop doors, wore a respirator, grinding helmet and welding beanie. Did not notice a lot of odor and as this stuff is so thick it pretty much just went where you aimed the gun. 35 psi at the gun seemed about right.
Installed NOS front torsion spring in the lower axle tube today. Manual says to set at 40 degrees off of vertical, but Alan at the Stable suggests at or near the bottom(car higher), as most cars he sees are at this ride height. Any advice? Can always reset once car is on the ground if it is too high?
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