Engine tin & other related items on my engine

[Jack Staggs]

"short "bolt flanges on the hoop face the engine. Some rubber seals 'lips' are longer and stiffer than others. The factory manual has a procedure using a thin cord to pull the seal into proper position. I never have used it. I get underside and tickle it into place when needed. I generally don't replace that seal unless it's totally melted. Fun, huh

[MMW]

Yes the upper bolts inside the bell housing have the nuts on the outside.

[MMW]

I have now loosened the four bolts that hold the engine to trans so the top has about 1/4" gap between the engine/trans & still can't get the tin to slide over as it's to close to the firewall. The new seal is somewhat stiffer but the same size as the old. Just doesn't seem to be enough clearance.

[Jack Staggs]

Re read you post and changed mine

[MMW]

I do have the "shorter" boss facing the engine so it is correct. I will put the old seal back in & try it. Thank you.

Edit -- Put the old seal in & it slid in like it should. Yes!! Amazing that a pc. of rubber could hold it all up.

Thanks again Jack.

[MMW]

Wow this car is killing me. Doing my best to make it to Hershey but at this point I'm not feeling it. Finally got it fired up today. Sweet! Not so fast, fuel pump is now leaking pretty good. No issues before now.

What am I in for to rebuild it? The pump seems to be working fine but just leaking, Seems to be coming from the seal on the bottom of the top cap that is held on with one bolt in the center. I tried tightening everything but still leaks. I guess pull the pump? Am I in for any surprises or is it pretty straight forward? I found this link for a little tool to put the diaphragm in.

https://www.porsche356registry.org/article/80

I am so frustrated at this point as I don't have any more days off before Hershey.

[Jack Staggs]

When you have the engine out, and no fuel is in the system, the seals tend to dry out and shrink, especially with our current fuel. In my experience, the "bell" on top of the fuel pump is collapsed from previous zealots over-tightening (if a little is good, more is better, the American way!) and further tightening only exacerbates (take that SJ and Ruddy!) the problem. The top of the bell gets bent down first and comes in contact with the boss that the bolt threads into, reducing tension on the lower gasket. Remove the bell and select an appropriate drift to dolly it back in to shape. If you don't have a new gasket, you can put a little Hylomar on it to help it seal. What, you don't have Hylomar???!!! OK, try to put some bar soap (Dial, Ivory, etc) on the top and bottom gaskets before installing it. The gasket could be very brittle. Leave the bar soap in water for a little bit so that it's soft enough to not tear your old gasket before applying it. Your gasket is too small in diameter to fit? Soak in laquer thinner until it swells to the size you need. Don't use the "American way" on installation. I have a box of fuel pumps with stripped out top bolt threads.

[JR]

What a talent Jack!
Ithink your right on!
Sorry that we didn't get up to see you in February when I was in Poway!
Dick

[Jack Staggs]

For the future, you can get these excellent parts from Doug here: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=587913

[JTR70]

Thanks for sharing a few ideas from your bag of tricks Jack! Those tips drip with years of experience. Very cool stuff!

Glad to see your "to do list" getting shorter Mic; hope you make the show!
Justin

[roy mawbey]

Great info Jack. I know Mike Smith over here ( PRS ) has so often made the comment about using the correct seals. I found out the hard way with 'front lid ( bonnet ) seals they do vary. The firewall one is still original on my car, I did notice the last time I had the engine out the original seal was still tight so only changed the main back one with the carb heater flaps.( good decision I reckon !!)

The trouble is you look in a catalog and see a nice new part and just think 'great I will fit a new one'.
I had the same problem as you Mic with the fuel pump cap leaking. I had to reform the top of it and took more care with tightening the bolt.

Of course it should be said without 356 rubber seal manufacturers like International Mercantile etc, just where would we all be without suppliers? Rubber seals perish and thank goodness people have invested their money and time to re-make them.

Roy

[MMW]

Here is a pic just before it went in.



Question on fuel pumps. Looking at a diagram of the "old" style I can remove the "bell", straighten if needed, new gasket or seal the old one easily enough while still in the car. Do I want to remove the six screws on the next casting to have a look into the diaphragm area? Or just leave well enough alone? (if it isn't broke don't touch it)

I have read about setting/checking the pushrod length when installing a pump. Shimming it with gaskets to get it correct also. How critical is that if you are replacing a pump after rebuilding it or replacing with a different one? I don't see how anything could change? Please educate a novice.

Thank you again Jack! I always breathe a sigh of relief when you answer my seemingly simple questions. It is much appreciated.

Just ordered the pump screen kit that Jack referenced. I had no idea that should be changed regularly. Everything is "magic" to me until I've taken it apart once. My first reaction is "panic" when something isn't going well. Got to stop that.

[Jack Staggs]

I recommend that folks DO NOT remove or fiddle around with the 'bell', ever, unless there is a leak!!! Where do you think that box of fd up fuel pumps I have came from? I guarantee that Kerry and I did not damage a single one. Mic. you asked about the 6 screws. Do you want it to start leaking there next? Re the depth tool. Worked well when everything was brand new out of the box, not very well with everything worn/rebuilt/repaired. I have devised a better method

[JR]

Hey MIC,
RE your exhaust system in the pic.
I know that you have talked about it before, but it reminds me of the EMPI that I had on the Roadster in the 70s.
Did you build it?
Looks nice.
Dick

[MMW]

JR -- Can't take credit for my exhaust. The engine builder put it on back in the late 70s/early 80s. I did see one at the Hershey swap last year for $75 though. Should of picked it up because I do like it. Seems to be well built & fits nicely. It mounts onto the stock j-pipes. No idea who made them & can't find a similar one searching the web.

As far as finish I just sanded it & shot it with Rustoleum high heat semi gloss black.

I haven't done anything to my fuel pump as I ordered the gasket & screen from http://www.type356a.com/services.html As soon as that gets here I will replace the gasket & check to see if the top of the bell is deformed.