Engine tin & other related items on my engine

[MMW]

I removed my engine to replace the mounts & clean everything up, paint tin etc. I thought removing the tin would be easier than I'm finding it to be. The side tin pc. in the pic does not come off unless I remove the intake manifold also. But, I cannot remove the intake easily without removing the same tin pc. Is there something I'm missing? It seems when going back together they will need to be installed at the same time & I will need to reach into the spark plug openings in the tin to access the inner intake nuts. Is this correct? I should mention that I have no idea what intakes I have as my engine has 48ida Webers. Maybe that's the reason I'm having difficulty?



Here is the intake.

[MMW]

I think I found my answer. I should of researched more before posting here but here is what I found. The intakes I have look to be for super 90 or 912 with solex 40 carbs. The tin I have is for non solex 40 carbs. The tin I need is split. See the Stoddard link below. No wonder it was a pain, two pc. tin would make it easy.

I should know by now that nothing is simple. It looks like I'll slice these & weld a tab on one side.

http://www.stoddard.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/p/c/pcg-106-901-00_copy.jpg

[roy mawbey]

Mic,

Give yourself a pat on the back for finding that. Many would have scratched their heads and given up. You are correct so many permutations very hard when you buy something over 50 years old!!

Roy

[Craig Richter]

Mic,
48IDA's? Really? And on those manifolds? Hmmmm...pictures please.

I see them in the background I think. What jetting? Cam? That's a heck of a lot of carb on a 356!

[JTR70]

I was thinking the same thing Craig; dual 48's are way too much carb for any motor under 2000CC's. In the late 80's I bought a pair of 44IDF's from Harry Pellow for a 912 motor with a 1720 big bore kit with a stock 912 cam. Even they were too much and I had no real bottom end torque. I ended up taking the motor to a Porsche mechanic who put in smaller venturies and rejetted them. After that the motor ran great! Those new venturies in my 44's choked them down to perform like 40IDF's. Bigger is not always better I suppose especially if it overwhelms the capacity of the engine... Maybe Mic has his 48's chocked down to work properly with a 356 motor??

Right Mic, Later Split tin must be used with the later solex or Weber style manifolds if you want to be able to remove them without having to tear down the intake system..

[MMW]

I know you are all interested in my engine, as am I. The back story is My Dad's friend Hans Ziereis built a hot street motor for it early to mid 70s. My Dad had all the tins, etc. sandblasted & dropped them off. Miscommunication & the oil fill was never cleaned out completely so it didn't last very long. A tired loaner was installed while this engine was built in the late 70s. It then sat until maybe 1995 when it was finally installed.

At the time it was built I was in my late teens & involved in other things so didn't pay much attention. The rumors were it had "all the best parts". Now I'm finding out maybe not? It does run good even though it is kinda flat below 3200 rpm. Rich? Yes very rich but doesn't foul plugs.

What I know for fact is a 912 case, 48 ida, old style steel rockers & now 912 intakes. The rumor is the cam is a custom racing grind designed by Hans. Since it is reliable I see no reason to tear it down just for curiosity.

On top of the intakes are scat adapters to the webers. In retro spec I should of changed carbs but I didn't know better & still am just learning. Since my budget is limited I can't just do everything at once or take it somewhere to do it.

I'll have to look through old notes to see if I have jets/etc. written down.

You gotta admit they look cool though.

[MMW]

Next question, on top of my generator is something that looks like a condenser. My memory tells me it has something to do with limiting the radio interference? Can it be removed?

[MMW]

Found some old notes about my carbs.

In the beginning we had a lot of issues with plugs fouling. Never did find the problem but it fixed itself. My best guess is it had sticky rings that finally seated in. One cylinder had low compression & while my Dad was driving it one day he said it had a huge backfire & then ran great after that. Never fouled plugs since.

Not sure what is in it now but it should be close to these numbers. This is the last note that was on top of the stack. 37mm venturi - 140 mains - ac 160 - e tube F7 - idle F10/55.

I feel like such a newbie with these cars. If only I didn't get sidetracked earlier in life.

[roy mawbey]

Mic,

Sure looks like the 'supressor' fitted from new to my car probably by the importer to the UK when they fitted the Motorola valve radio. All my cars in the 60's had them fitted I remember well a mini that didn't have one. Everytime he came past my mum and dads house it made the radio 'crackle' like mad. My dad used to say 'that blighter ( a term I never understood ) is outside again!

So I have kept both mine on the car if you look at the 1st photo its fitted on the bracket between the oilfilter housing at the top and the coil.You can just see the top of it. That one is connected to the coil. The second one is to the generator like yours.In the 2nd photo an old one I took years ago you can just see it. My dynamo assembly was last removed in 1965 the position for the wiring connections is some degrees past where it should be like yours. I know this position suits the 356C because of the different oil filler and clearance for wires. I guess the Porsche mechanic of the time just did it that way when he worked on my engine soon to be 50 years ago!!
As I understood it you could have more than one supressor fitted to the car to supress more than one electrical item? thats why I have two of them/

I guess you could re-route it to another position, To prove our assumption is correct you could remove and try a radio by the side with the engine running In saying that maybe current radio's have something to overcome the problem fitted in them now??


[attachment:1]2013_1087 bday356enginenormtimmeissen 011.jpg[/attachment]

[attachment:2]2012_1042 regulatordynamowiring 006.jpg[/attachment]

Roy

[roy mawbey]

Mic,

No picures came out I try again!






Roy

[MMW]

Thanks for the pics Roy. Your engine looks so nice. I'm going to use your picture for inspiration. Did you paint all of the tin glossy? I was thinking of doing that to mine even though it's not original. I think the gloss looks so much better.

I just got the exhaust off which wasn't fun as the J-pipes were stuck in the other pipes & now I finally have all the tin work off. If I knew it was this time consuming I might not have started it. I'm sure I'll be happy when it is done though.

Now I found a marking on the cylinder base. It looks to be a HJ inside a diamond & the cylinders are steel. Does that mean anything to help identify them? I know it's a long shot.



As it sits now. Just washed it off in 20*f temps. That was cold. It wasn't to bad but a few small leaks that attracted dirt. The engine fill was not real tight on the gen stand, one tin screw was missing where it goes into the rocker box & it seems the pulley seal may be starting to leak.

[Craig Richter]

Mic,
Yes they do look cool, and different, and I think you should keep 'em just because, but you will have to fool around. Been a LONG time since I worked on IDA's (all my VW buddies loved 'em back in the day on their 2180's) but your jets sound like out-of-the-box stock. Get some smaller venturi (34's should be available), cut-down the A-pump delivery (that could be where your richness is coming from), maybe 50-52.5 idles. We'll go from there when you get it running again...
IDA's are expensive carbs. You could probably trade them off for some IDF's AND put some change back in your pocket, but then you'd lose that WOW factor.
You must check that maybe low-compression cylinder. Never run right that way. Easy to do with motor out. Just put air pressure into each spark plug hole with that cyl at TDC. Any leaking becomes obvious.
Funny thing about backfires. Blows back thru the jet stack and cleans out any crap in there. Instant carb rebuild. Seen it happen many times.
Report back as work progresses. Even on a budget, you'll get this puppy runnin' good again.
Happy New Year y'all.

[MMW]

It's been a long time since I messed with the carbs. We got it to where it is & left it. Now I'm curious & dug back through old paperwork. From notes I found I have tried 125 & 140 mains, 145, 150, 160 & 190 air. I think we always used F7 tubes & tried F10/55, 60, 65 & 70 idles. Never tried lower than F10/55s. Always had 37mm venturis. I was always told that you had to run the idles rich to help with the flat spot off idle but in reading a year or so ago if I drill a third progression hole it makes them way more streetable.

As far as the compression I'll check it but it was all good after the "pop'. This was maybe 10-12 years ago? I can't find any notes but my memory thinks I had 145-150 in 3 cyl & 110-115 in one but not sure. Then they evened out. Wish I wrote it down.

I think you are the first person to say keep em. I always liked them because they are unique & people always ask "what are they?". Now I'm excited to try changing them around a little bit once I get it back together.

Copied from the web,

"It provides a 3rd hole from which fuel can be drawn from while still remaining on the idle circuit as the throttle plate is progressively opened. It keeps the idle circuit in use longer before transitioning to the Main circuit of which the emulsion tubes play a very significant part."

[MMW]

In reference to my question on the previous page about my cylinders & the logo (diamond with HJ inside it) it seems after much searching I have come to the conclusion that these are NPRs. Being that the engine was built sometime around late 70s early 80s I am assuming they are 86mm & give me a 1720cc engine which seems to have been very common then.

[Craig Richter]

And still very common, sort of the "default" engine size today, even if NPR's are gone. If your motor still has descent compression, I'd say you're good to go...