58367 The $75 Junkyard Carrera coupe restoration

[JTR70]

Thanks Mark! Yes, holding a few of those positions while I held the dolley and hammered felt alot like it could have been compared to a Yoga or Pilates' workout


*********** Lead wiping ***********

Again some of these repairs are out of sequence but I wanted to cover each individual aspect of the restoration from start to finish.
Before I get started here are the basic tools required that Jason either supplied or told me to buy. All the basic lead working stuff including the lead itself came from the Eastwood Co. The only item that did not was the solder paste which Jason supplied. Jason emailed me a list of tools&supplies he wanted on hand for his visit of which I had almost none of. Below is everything I'm using at the moment.


Here are all the basic tools & supplies that Jason told me to buy. The Dillon/Henrob Torch(now A.K.A. the Cobra torch) I bought as a kit on Ebay. (kit runs 300-400$) Solder paste (Jason) The rest is Eastwood: wooden paddle spreader set (16.00) Solder Tallow, the white stuff in the alloy tray. You warm this and coat the wooden spreader with it.(15.00) Body solder sticks 10pc. 1 LBS. (40.00) These sticks go quick! Pictured were my last two at the time.


This is the flux that Jason likes. Its an Australian product so I don't know if its available elsewhere. Whats nice about this paste is that it has solder mixed into it. So you apply it, heat it then wipe it with a rag leaving a nice primer surface of solder. The molten fill just loves it!


These are the body files that Jason brought for me. One course blade the other a bit finer and less aggressive. The plastic one is also adjustable to give the blade either a slight concave or convex surface. I really like this tool.


To get my feet wet I chose this small low spot at the bottom of the fender where I plug-welded the tang on. The welding made a slight low spot just like it did the first time it was installed. This area was done in lead by the factory too so its the perfect place to test and get aquainted with body solder. I followed the procedure that Jason had outlined and it all went surprisingly easy........

Surface was thoroughly cleaned. Applied the tining acid. heated it and wiped it over the area like I was shown.

Bulk of the solder applied and now ready to be reheated and spread out. Made a few mistakes. Most of which was getting it too hot and having some of it run-off onto the floor. Wasting it like that really pissed me off each time it happened but I learned and got a little better at it as time went by.

Solder now spread out over the low spot. This took me a while and several passes to get where I needed it. On the learning curve.

creating the rough shape with my body file.

Switched to emory paper to get the final shape.


Little bottom fill job complete. This was a great confidence builder for what was to become hours and hours of work ahead with it.

[JTR70]

I'm now going after all my gaps on the right side door and threshold area. My first attempt was on the forward corner where my joint/patch panel was welded in on the rocker. I know this is filler any way you slice it but I feel so much better now using tin over bondo.

Cleaned area and applied my first application of solder. Very rough with a bunch of low spots. Lots of heating and spreading to do.

Shape almost there. Have several low spots in it. Going to have to add more which means reheating. Very afraid of melting away the sections I like while adding more material.

Very happy with the basic shape. There are still some small divots here and there but I'll get these with primer and Paint. I went after several others and just ended up making more work for myself. This can only get better with more practice.

Redoing the forward gap on my right side door repair next. A special thanks to Jason Bobruk again for showing yet another technique that is making this restoration that much better!!
Thanks for stopping by! Justin

[roy mawbey]

Justin,

If only I had some advice like that above when I started leading all those years ago. Its only with practice that it starts to work. Again the work you did there is really good. Did you ever feel like wishing you had an extra foot or two on the ends of your arms to hold the tools? You must have ached with one arm high up under the rear fender and the other using the hammer?

Really useful info, not that I wish to knock out dents on mine

Roy

[JTR70]

Hey Roy,
Not only did wish for an extra arm but I also needed the one's had to be just a bit longer so I could reach way up in there properly. I could have gotten that area better had it been more accessable. I just did the best that I could do. At the very least it was improved. Thanks again Roy! Justin


Right side door gap redo in lead.

Now that I'm finishing all my door gaps in Solder I decided to address my right door repair ( from page 4) as well. Since I knew nothing about lead wiping I had to create my new gap with a material I was familiar working with: Plasitc filler. Not proud of that but you go with what you know. So here goes; yet another "redo" on this restoration! Imagine that!


Here is my filler now exposed for removal. An equal amount of lead solder will take its place just as it was done originally by the factory.

Edge now cleaned and prepped. I left the upper corner as reference and marked the flange so I could get the thickness close.

Very rough initial applications. had to build up the material & it took alot. As it built up it became more difficult to add and shape without losing some of it on the floor. It was also not very well formed and melted together. Kind of layered and scaley. Not hot enough.

My solution was to secure a metal strip to the outside to create a trough. This little trick made all the difference! I could now heat it and add solder without the fear of losing it as run-off.

Started using a short strip for more control. Learn as you go!

Building it up and taking shape nicely. The tin was now thoroughly melted and well formed.

slowly filing it for a basic shape.

More Filing and getting a really nice leading edge out of lead now.

Making the transition from bondo to solder. Jason has made a reformed bondo slinger out of me. I feel so much better about this repair now!

[JTR70]

Verticle portion mainly complete. Many an hour file shaping with repeated test fits of this door again to get here. But its closer!


verticle portion of the gap is 95% there. You can see the filling I have to do up top as it makes the turn.

Corner is a bit tight and will need a little more shaved off.

You can just make out some slight irregularities in my line. I'll get these out with primer and paint. Black marks show where I needed to beat the fender out to get the elevation with door right.

New leading edge is now fully finished and ready for primer. I have a ton of time filing and sanding on this!

Looks just like it did before I tore this door apart. I love the fact that this is like it was originally. I have noticed that this amount of solder has considerably added some weight to this door. I'm not crazy about that part but this is how it was done so...

Making the turn up the door now.


I used the metal strap to Support and help form the leading edge while I added material to the outer surface as well.

leveling the big stuff. ready to remount on the car for final filing to get the elevation with the fender correct.

basic shape.

Almost there! This upper curve is still just a bit too tight. Need to remove a touch more but the overall shape is right.

Taken the lead work up as far as I needed to. The last upper portion of this gap is all steel. I had to cut and weld here (page 4) to create the gap and was able to get it close with no filler. At first I was thinking of replacing that skim coat of bondo behind the leaded edge but weight is becoming a concern. So I am restricting its use to mainly corner and edge building. I am restoring this car as a GT light weight and it makes absolutely no sense to put my weight savings back on this car as lead solder. Say what you like about bondo, at the end of the job its 10X lighter than using solder.

This completes the leading on the front gap. I'll true it more as I get into the body work phase. Moving onto the rear gap on this door next. Thanks for stopping by! Justin

[roy mawbey]

Justin,

This leading area of the door to fender shut really has impressed me. As you know from previous info I leaded my drivers door when I fabricated a strip for the bottom of my door and the problems of distortion I had caused by door to be heavier after the lead application.
I look at your door shut area at the top where the large radius is and its hard to believe you achieved such a close fit.
I know my passenger door and fender are original but the door shut measurement is no where as near as good as
yours. I will take a few photos soon of mine. As you swing the door open the area down to the rocker is very close but it needs more clearance at the top to clear. I really am impressed you got it to work so well,how many times did you have the door on and off??

Well done indeed.

Roy

[JTR70]

Hi Roy, Thank you! I am glad you can appreciate what went into this. I probably had the door on and off better than 30X to get here. Once I had the gap close it was still slightly irregular as it went. I had to find a way of getting the final shape while still on the car. Here is how I did it.


I used my angle die-grinder with a roloc disc to do the final shaping for consitency in this gap. Had to take it real slow and careful not to remove too much! Short controlled bursts.


One last little area on the body this time that needed a little solder for a smooth transition to the door.

All the heavy shaping now complete. The rest would be careful hand sanding only.

[JTR70]

Right rear door gap lead solder.


Preping the rear quarter and jamb now for solder. I still need to push the lower portion of the quarter out to line up with the closed door better.


A little hammerwork to do on my rocker weld joint. The corner is going to need a little lead.

Installed a new rubber seal both front and back to "load" the door in its final postion when closed. If I fill and block sand without it in there, final assembly would be a heartbreaker for sure!


With the door fully engaged with the the new seal in, this is the elevation issue I have to address. Just below the door handle on up aligns beautifully. Had to work on that evelation problem first.

Door and latch now adjusted in thier best possible postion. Time to start soldering the corner area.

Got the elevation in the lower corner very close to the level of the latched door. Just a bit more in a few spots. Getting alot of practice adding material in and spreading it without melting away the first application. Its alot tougher and more involved then using plastic filler thats for sure.

Almost ready to move onto building up the door gap but I'm still low in a few places on this face. You can see the edge of the door is still a touch low.

Building this gap is much harder then on the front of the door. Same problem as before scaley, poorly formed; not hot enough. While trying to add it I was melting what I had already done and was losing some of it as run off. Very frustating again!!!!

By Day two of trying to lead this lower rear corner and door gap this way I had had enough! I decided to change my approach and made alot of headway that afternoon. It was almost fun.....

I decided to make gravity my friend that day. I cheated meastro(Jason) Please forgive me! I turned the car on its side to load the solder on. To get up high enough I rolled my heavy table next to the car and used it as a work platform. I know gravity loading is not "old school" but its on this rotisserie so why not take full advantage; besides I want to get through this. I don't want to die from lead poisoning trying to perfect my technique against the force of gravity.

I also decided to go with the trough trick again to build up the edge of the quarter panel. Only problem was that I Didn't have anywhere to clamp to like on the front of the door to hold the metal strip in place. It eventually came to me to mount the door and use it to hold the strip in position. Pictured here ready for more solder.

Worked beautifully like before. I was able to get a thoroughly melted flow in there without worring about losing it on the floor. Solder pictured is now ready to be reheated and spread out with my wooden paddle. Notice how wierd that molt turned out in this photo. Looks almost like a face with an almost perfectly formed eye with lid. Spooky!

[JTR70]

Solder now spread out and metal strip removed

initial fling to see where it was at.

Had to repeat this process several times of course. "fill and file". Along the rocker and on the corner of the door too. Door fitment is really taking shape now. Still a few divots here and there but I'm done chasing it with lead. I'll get these out with primer and a little putty.

Corner is basically done! The verticle gap is way too tight but I wanted to make sure I had enough material in there when I start to shape it. Heading up higher next.

Initial fill and file on the mid portion of the quarter panel This is where I left it. Upper portion up next.

Profile view again. Elevation and fitment of the lower door to quarter panel to rocker coming along better then I was expecting. You can see area next to door handle hole is in need of attention. My next chore. Thanks for stopping by! Justin

[roy mawbey]

Justin,

Wow, lovely work. What a good idea about gravity and the idea to have blanking plates to stop lead flowing off. I had so much on the floor when I did it. The gaps are so good. Its artistic to achieve that in my opinion.

Roy

[JTR70]

Thank you Roy! You know what they say about necessity being the mother of invention. I had to do something, those lead sticks get pricy after a while.Thanks again! Justin

Finished up leading rear section of the door jamb. Basic shape is there but still several hours of filing and final shaping to come.


Finally have a nice consistent gap from top to bottom.

Profile again. I'm really happy with elevation and transition from door to quarter panel. It flows real nice now.

I'm really liking this tight verticle gap better I see it but it did not come this way so I'll open it up a bit.

Very top of the door was a bit short. After tighening up this gap on the door side with lead there was a bit more overhang then I was comfortable with. I thought it would be much better that this leading edge be in steel rather than made entirely of solder.

I made a paper template based on a nice leaded edge gap so I could reproduce it in steel. I then melted all the lead off again. You can see just a sliver of steel is all that is needed.

steel extension now welded into position.

Paper template refitted in marked poisition to do the final trimming. Not going to be a whole lot left of this piece once I cut it back where it is needed.

Extention trimmed and door refitted to the car (once again!!!)Some grinding and fine finishing still left before I add the lead back in.

Area now releaded and have completed the soldering process on this left side door!!!


Rear verticle gap also now opened up just a bit.

Inside shot of the door jamb fill. A few divots in here as well. Will finish them with all the surface short comings with putty too. I didn't want to risk melting my lines to try and chase these with more lead. Besides it will be a little lighter doing it this way.

lower corner shaped and finished. The corners where very time consuming to shape and get to match.


I would say the gaps are 95% here. Will take them the rest of the way in the paint and bodywork phase.

Elevation and gaps set. Very happy with the doors final fitment on the car. I have to admit after I reskinned this door I was concerned with its contour in relation to the rest of the car but fortunately its right at home now.

[JTR70]

Skipping ahead just a bit to its initial coat of primer and tracer paint for a good look at the gaps.


Really happy with the initial shape and width. The ghosts where the leadwork begins/ends is clearly visible. These will be feathered out with putty.

The normal rule of thumb on door jamb gaps for these cars is about a wooden paint sticks thickness. Mine are just a touch tighter than that. Everything clears and I prefer the look so I left them skinner.

So happy, the solder phase for this side is now complete!!
Left door coming up next! Thanks for stopping by! Justin

[JTR70]

Left side solder work.

Initial lead work on an old corner rust repair patch my father and I did back in the '80's. It is about the only patch I felt comfortable leaving but I did repair the inner flange which I'll post shortly.


Here is the car in '68 getting prepped for its VW motor and transmission. Just wanted to note how long ago that corner of this door had rusted through. It is only this corner that has ever been repaired the rest of the skin is solid. Fortunately!


Turned the car on its side again insterted a divider to establish a gap and to keep it from being soldered shut. I could now start applying the lead to the rocker as well.


Initial filing. lots of solder to add.

Surface area slowly growing as needed.

Just about level and flush.

Finished the leadwork on the rear portion of the left door and lower rocker area. Getting really close to wrapping up the lead phase. Just a few more spots remain.

Finished applying lead in this area. Really happy to be done with it. It required a bit more than I had first thought. Always does!

Just have to open the gap and address the inner door jamb run.

Starting on the front portion of the rocker where I welded it back together. This wont take too much.

lead filling up front now complete.

Began replacing this big chunk of lead I lost when I cut the rocker panel out to do the longitudinals. With all this practice I unexpectedly got better at applying solder against the force of gravity;also without melting away existing tin work. Who knew?

[JTR70]

Ready to start final shaping on this verticle gap.

The gap from the mid portion on up is the factory gap. I remounted the right side door to double check its gap width. My verticle gap to the right side is a few MM's tighter which I like much better.

You can see in this picture how the gap is a few MM's tighter where my leadwork is at the bottom. This matches the right side verticle gap I finished earlier.

peering into this gap on some angels I can see clearly right down into the door jamb which I really do not like.

Even though it came from the factory like this I've decided to tighten this entire line up a few MM's to even out both sides of the car. This being a coupe; I can get away with a slightly tighter gap. In process of that here.

All the solder is applied and now ready to start shaping the new gap.

Filed it flat and now ready to take my die-grinder and open it up to match the lower portion.

Final shape finishing on the corner and jamb area. Spent better than an hour just getting this contour correct as it makes the turn.

one more shot. A few small divots here and there but I'll take care of those with putty.

New gap fully shaped and even with the edge of the door.

So much happier with this new gap distance. Still have some soldering and shaping to do along the bottom edge but about finished with lead here.

[JTR70]

Leadwork on left door and jamb area complete! Just about done with the lead phase of this project. Now preping this area for an initial coat of primer and tracer paint.

Thoroughly wet sanded this area with soapy water like I did the right side to remove any tinning acid residue and other contaminates that will wreak havoc on a paint job if not cleaned off!

Front prepped and ready

Rear also ready for some covarage.

one last look in the raw.

Initial primer and paint.

So happy to get this behind some cover!

Happy with all the gaps and the basic shape. Alot of fine finishing ahead though. Ghost lines where the lead ends and all the divots will get an thin coat of putty as well.

gaps are uniform with the right side.

Thin veniers of putty and block sanding are next for this area.
Onto the next deal! Thanks for stopping by! Justin