Canuck 1960B T5 Coupe Resto

[Scott B]

A photo just for fun. I am fortunate to be able to work on my car in my friends garage. He is always working on something interesting. He is a remarkable mechanic and all round mentor for everything I am doing. He specialized in air cooled engines. He is semi retired so gets to choose the jobs he wants to works on for clients Today he was working on a late forties international truck - it has been beautifully restored by the client. He was doing brakes and making all the gauges work. . In the foreground is the third plane he is rebuilding for himself. This one is a 1935 Great Lakes bi-plane aircraft. He has his own airstrip so sometimes on the weekend we take off for lunch - on his ampib float plane so can park on any lake.

[JTR70]

Looks like you are definitely in the right place! Really nice shop and your buddy seems very well rounded as a fabricator. The truck is really nice. Thanks for the shots.

[Scott B]

Anyone know if this hole is needed on the light hole rim?. I can’t see a purpose for it. There is one on the other side as well Should it be welded closed? Was it maybe a jig hole for Trevorhammer works when it was made?

[JTR70]

yes, fill those for sure...

[Scott B]

Working on the left bucket light. Took a lot of reworking to get the chrome to fit. And of course the bucket bracket was not correct. Why can’t they sell these with about an extra end on either end of the tube so it would fit???? Had to take apart - re bend a tube - heat the end and mould a lip with a ball-pine harmer - add an extension to the bracket. . A lot of work for a simple part.

[JTR70]

Do you have a base seal for test fitting before you commit to the bucket lip spacing from the body? You'll want to mock all that up with the trim ring synched up so you're not hating life once its all welded together. Keep up the great progress!

[Scott B]

Thanks Justin. I mocked up the Chrome with the rubber seal as well.

[Scott B]

Will be starting on the rear end soon. Will reinstall the rear deck lid for best fit first. Then need to make a decision on where to cut out the metal. I have a rear section I purchased from Trevor Hammerworks. My preference would be to cut he smaller section and avoid cutting the gutter for the rear deck lid. Any thoughts from the group? Cut out the full section based on the piece I got from Trevor or cut a smaller section out of the new piece ? The green tape shows the rough shape for both options on where to cut.

[Phil Planck]

I would match up the Trevor gutter to your lid. If good match I would use Trevor gutter. Otherwise you have a lot more butt weld to planish and that area up there is hard to get a dolly underneath.

[Scott B]

Phil you make a good point about the gutter. Should still cut the smaller piece out of the Trevor panel for the whole middle section or cut out the larger piece to match the full Trevor piece?

[Phil Planck]

Where is Bruce Baker when we need him? I have tried to get him back but no luck so far. My concern about using just the middle section would be contour match up along with weld access from behind. Do some measuring of bumper bracket hole spacing comparison.

[Scott B]

Anyone have a picture of the wire that holds the washer bag? I cut mine off the old fender - put it in a safe place - so safe I can’t find it. Will need to recreate. I am after a better shot of this - preferably a good side view and sizing.

[Scott B]

Some heat shrinking some dolly work and then cold water quenching.

[roy mawbey]

Not easy work Scott, you are doing well it takes time to get the result you want. Justin had to contend with a things you are attempting but I wonder if he is taking a break from it at the moment?
Roy

[Scott B]

Let’s hope he’s taking a break and nothing more.

Started to tackle the job of cutting the hole for the centre fill gas cap. First job was to find the centre hole position I Placed a cut wooden disc on the gas tank (once it was secured in position). Then I Cut a hole in the wooden disc allowing for a pencil to slide up and down with some light pressure. I Also had to find the angle of the hood (8 degree slope) and the gas tank angle (1.4 degrees off level). I then tilted the wooden disc on the tank to obtain 8 degrees. Then added some wet white out on top of the pencil and slowly closed the hood for the tip of the pencil to mark with whiteout the centre point and then drilled a small hole.

[Scott B]

Once I new the position for the large hole (about 4 3/4 “I I drilled a small hole in the centre and then placed a compass to draw a number of circles. This helped later to position the wooden jig. I then routered out two wooden discs. One disc I lightly sand for the roll over. I first indexed the two wooden forms with four screw bolts.

[Scott B]

I then placed the one upper wooden disc on top of the hood and using the previously drawn circles positioned the disc (centered) and then clamped in position and drilled four holding screws in the hood then matted the other disc under the hood with the four bolts. Then it was time to drill the large hole - but leaving about an 1/8 to a quarter inch metal for future rolling an edge.

[Scott B]

From there it was just a matter of taking my time to slowly tap the metal down to form a rim. Slow process using dolly and various hammers. Next time I would use a harder wood as there was some compression and it created a softer roll over than I would of liked. Some future dolly and hammer will tighten the lip some. I am happy with how it turned out and a nice close fit to the gas cap. Next step will be to add the filler extension and make up a new gas cap.

[JTR70]

Great work on the hammer form, it seems to have produced a really nice leading edge. A nerve wracking commitment on your final hole position I'm sure... Looks good!