Canuck 1960B T5 Coupe Resto

[Red911]

Hi Justin and thank you Scott for allowing me to get more acquainted with how to properly perform door surgery.

Justin, I am so impressed with your talents that I cannot even come close to duplicating.

I however now with both your work standards have a track to run on.

I learned a lot, but especially the following:

1. A relief cut helps when you cannot straighten out metal. This was mentioned by another lister, but is especially important to my door where the two accident creases are in the door skin.

2. I learned that MIG welds can be worked without cracking. I have done this with patch panels, so I can use either MIG or gas welding on my door.

3. Reinstall the window frames and install the door prior to installing the door bottom and door skin to verify proper placement.

4. It's ok to tentatively fully mount the door bottom first, and keep the door skin attached with screws or clecos (I read somewhere else that Aircraft Spruce has better clecos for sale). That allows you to move the foundation around prior to completing welding on the door skin.

I will never equal Scott's, Justin's or Tom's quality or fit and finish, but I will have many enjoyable hours in the garage.

Thanks again, as now I am signing out and going back to my project site with much more confidence and even joy.

Tom

[JTR70]

That's very nice of you to say Tom and I appreciate that but I'm just a regular hobbyist like yourself. I have my air compressor ( my left hand) and my welder (the right hand) and I get myself by doing the best that I can at the moment. I'm happy to share anything I've learned through these past years if it can make someone else's journey a little smoother; again even if its what NOT to do. Best of luck with your doors.

Sorry Scott, okay back to your build.

Justin

[Scott B]

too far for me.

[roy mawbey]

Ah Scott, 'Reference points'and the fact 'the more welding you do the better you get' sums it up really. You are doing some very nice work because you like doing it! When you see a piece of work turn out well its so true your confidence goes right up.

Its that way even with mechanical or electrical problems. When finally my long term starting problems were finally resolved after much work and time so that now it works faultlessly it gave me new confidence to drive anywhere any time.

Carry on the nice work, always good to follow what you are attempting.

Roy

[Scott B]

Question to the forum. The first door I worked on the metal platform on which the hinges are attached to is close to perpendicular to the door frame. The current door has a slant downwards towards the frame. The pin holes are lined up and appear to be proud enough and was a good fit when I took the door off. It does not appear the door was damaged and this area does not look like it was pushed in. Is this just part of the variation of the doors or should this area be perpendicular and straightened out?

In the phot you can see the angle slop downwards and the gap.

[JTR70]

Don't get too caught up in that, the main concern is that it must fit and work correctly in the door opening. If you confirm this is the numbers matching door with no prior accident damage then..... If ain't broke don't fix it".

Justin

[Phil Planck]

Scott
My original door looks to have similar angle. Fit well after repair.

[Scott B]

[bbspdstr]

"I have the old lock post as a reference. "

You answered your own question but for the 'trick.' Use an old cereal box or tablet backing or what we used to call a "shirt cardboard" or heavy paper piece and trace the lockpost depression around the flat where the holes are, trimming to fit in the "cup" and when it does, trace the hole positions from behind and gasket-punch or otherwise cut those circles out of the cardboard and there's your template.

The 3 holes are bigger than the bolts for the striker, allowing a lot of adjustment. Don't be surprised if you need to use a round file or carbide bit to make a little more here or there to get more room, as the adjustments for a repaired door can demand more than what was originally there.

Also, the angle of the lockpost may be (slightly) different than the original, so your striker (receiver) may need sympathetic shimming for correct contact in engagement with what you call a "hook" but I call a "finger". Not too far away upon full closure and not so close as to bind.

-Bruce

[Scott B]

Bruce some great advice. Thank you. Will give that a try once the door frames are rebuilt. Would like to get them in position before I put the lower skin on. Repairs on drivers door continues.

[Scott B]

Finished up the inner frame of the door. Then removed the old door bottom. Carefully lifted up lip so it could slide out and then recrimped the skin lap to retain shape edge of outer door skin. Now time to start to measure and fit new door bottom.

[Red911]

Hi Scott,

This is precisely where I am, so I will learn along with you.

Tom

[Scott B]

Happy to have you along for the ride. Hope you can learn From my mistakes. Got the bottom panel piece from RD fitted in. Nice panel but needed some massaging. Had to splay out the edges to line up with the angle.RD edges are perpendicular and needed to be angled out. A long 2x4 and large hammer got this to the shape needed. I think this is as far as I should go until I media blast the door and try fitting the lower skin. Not sure I should weld in the door bottom as I will have more access for mating amd welding the lower skin. But before that I First need to fit the lower hinges on the doors and try to get them hung right on the car first. this will allow me to move the skin around a bit to hopefully find a better fit with the rocker.

[Red911]

Hi Scott,

I will be fitting the front of the remaining door skin to make it fit on the back of the front fender first, while the RD door bottom is tack welded in for alignment. Then I will test fit the new RD door skin bottom.

My door has moved forward successfully so I have a better rear gap and I have shimmed out the two hinges about 4 mm with the help of Stoddard's 1 mm door hinge shims.

The door skin is still about 4 to 6 mm lower than the front fender, but fitting better now with moving the door forward and shimming it out.

I will cut a small "V" in the front of the door skin and move it back to fit in the space between the front of the door and back of the front fender.

Once that is done, test fitting the new lower door skin.

Tom

[Scott B]

Good update and intel. Post up some pics when you get a moment. Note in the one closeup shot the RD panel comes up a little short on material.