1957 Sandblasted Coupe

[JTR70]

Hey Guys,

I ran through all my photo files and these are best ones I could find of my original floor in those areas. I can take better shots of the gas welds across those areas if you still need.

[Jack Staggs]

Well done to put all that shifter stuff together for testing before setting it in stone (steel?). Be sure that the reverse light switch bracket is stout enough on those late preA & T1 cars. Over time and use, the bracket can be bent slightly over enough that the switch will not operate the light. I have had the pleasure to repair this problem by welding additional material in the tunnel on several running/driving cars. Fun.

[JTR70]

Here are the seam welds I replicated on the coupster Steve.

Runs the length of the delta V

Runs the length of the overlap on the floor halves.

Justin

[Trevor]

From my 57 Coupe, original gas welds.

[ukinusa]

Thanks for all the comments on the side welds. That was one of easier tasks once I knew where to go ! My gas welding leaves a lot to be desired so I laid down mig bead and then 'dressed it' with gas. Not ideal - not pretty - but as it's going to have seam seal and paint, my sins with diminish




Then back to the tunnel. I have lost count of the number of times I have put the tunnel on and off again to make sure it's aligning up correctly. This sequence of 'on and off' again is especially important as it's getting close to commitment time !
First step was to tack weld the plates for the gear shift and heat control:



Then added the gear shift rod and mate it to the monkey motion.







All looked good - so everything off again and welded the plates down. I took note of the several peoples suggestion to makes sure the reverse light plate was robust. (Thank you)

Then onto the final layout check; I have the correct accelerator rod linkage and it fitted - ALMOST ! It was rubbing on the driver side brake tube. I realized I had turned the brake tube too soon after leaving the middle mount (the one with the rod U channel). I needed to unpick the welds on that left tube and allow it go straight for maybe 8" and then turn in. All the while "climbing" slightly as it goes, that then allowed the accelerator rod to slide under it with clearance.





I had taken the clutch tube off as part of the process to allow me to weld the rear end tubes. I recalled it being suggested that one checks the clearance of the tubes - I did - the clutch tube was blocked from a spot weld somehow, too much heat maybe ? I had to rig a 3' drill bit and clear it ! Then back on and welded up - no going back. Black paint where I could, as its not see daylight for a while (I hope) The yellow tape is protecting weld through copper primer.





Going to leave it for a day or so and think about it - once the tunnel is on I really don't want to find a problem.

Finally ... I can't see how the gear shift rod can be put in the tunnel after the tunnel is fitted; just too long - so that will be in place when I weld everything up .

[JTR70]

Looking good Steve!

Tunnel rod is installed and removed through this hole.
Justin

[bbspdstr]

Like the man says; 22Ra, page R51 of the workshop manual.

One catch though: Removal 3. [with] "(engine and transmission removed from car)"

Best not to forget, so put 'er in prior.

-Bruce

[Jack Staggs]

The shift rod for PRE T2 can be removed and replaced WITHOUT engine/trans removal, but just barely. Requires fuel tank removal, and the rod is pulled out in to the front trunk area through the oval hole that accommodates the fuel tap.
The shift rod on those early cars was made of really thin wall tubing. Take a very close look at It for signs of rusting out, usually from the INSIDE! Poke at anything that looks even remotely suspect. I have had occasion to remove and repair several over the decades on non rust bucket cars. Trevor assisted me just a month ago on a nice '57 Speedster.

[ukinusa]

Thanks guys - mea culpa - I should have know better and I must learn to RTFM more often. But will leave it in there, taped up, so as not to rattle too much while I roll the car around !

[ukinusa]

Opps it's been "3 months 1 week" - that's the trouble with this blog, it lets you know you have been slacking .... well maybe and maybe not.

The floor was a real push for me to get done and to be honest dressing all those welds, was a royal PITA. The thought of the seat mounts and their critical alignment issues coming up next, kinda put me off






So I allowed my self to get distracted. First up was a box trailer at a great price. Living in the middle of 'no where' (as beautiful as it is),the thought of driving to California in a 356, where a lot activity takes place, was stressful (and not to say dangerous on I15, so I have been on the look out for a trailer, and couldn't help myself when this came along.



Being short on garage space I have always been 'good' on not acquiring yet another bargain...(ie: no where to put yet another car). However with the trailer, I had the perfect answer when this opportunity along - into the trailer it goes !




Where did two the front grills go ????

A poor mans Speedster, and as I am never >>EVER<< going to own one of those, I reckon this is a good substitute
This is a 1969, is solid but a "sh#t" restoration - painted with a roller I think with some 'interesting' body mods ! Going to get it running 'safely', with a new motor and fix the body down the road after the 356.

Then off to UK to see family for xmas, getting flu type cold (thanks grand-kids) ... combined septic tooth and root canal back in the US at the start of January. Oh yes.. we have only one place to go in 2018 ... UP ! Sorry this turning into a Christmas letter, the following pages get back on topic - I promise

[ukinusa]

When I brought the car (shell) I had assumed the rear was original and that the lead work was factory. So wrong it seems !
It was replacement rear end, from a slightly later model as evidenced by the exhaust cut outs being 'filled in' and use of large washers and assorted metal strips to act as reinforcement for the metal joints, and dripping brass 'solder'


Just starting to cut out....


other side


Center support butchery/screw #12 ? with bronze drips

So these needed cutting out and replacing with new:






old to left - new to right (new fixed in, old just propped in there to show)

[ukinusa]

The bigger issues were the fender sides as mentioned...


rotted thru the lead.


Washer ? Why not !(and the support strut had to go as well of course)


Other side ...


Step 1 - cut out


screw plate down (after some shaping)


cut and clamp


check for levels


almost there


tack and clean up - time for a cup of tea


almost there


and under....


and a primer to seal for time being. And new strut - just gotta love new metal



and start over all over again on the other side.


and a sense of the lead !!!

to be continued...

[John Pierce]

Looks like you've been busy. Nice work there!

[roy mawbey]

Well done Steve a really good step forward. These jobs are not easy!!
Like the trailer and the VW ! Great to have that space for it, my neighbours would have not been that pleased if I brought that home!! Of course that would not surprise you me saying that.

Roy

[JTR70]

Great progress Steve and glad to hear you're back on it! Like the new Ghia and the toy hauler.

Justin