1957 Sandblasted Coupe

[bbspdstr]

Please be careful in the use of POR-15, as it will peel off of smooth metal (new metal) and only really likes lightly rusted or thoroughly textured metal. In the case of new repairs, good old fashioned Rustoleum primer works better or another catalyzed epoxy primer.

POR-15 is great when used as directed but it is an "air cure" urethane coating, meaning it cures by having air with moisture in it, humidity, and not as reliable overall as a true 2-part urethane or epoxy.

In those "blind" areas, "hosing on" is fine but working it in with a brush is better in many cases. Doesn't have to be too thick, just complete in coverage and seam saturation.

-Bruce

[ukinusa]

Good point Bruce, I was thinking more in the longitudinal areas rather than the floor pan metal. It that area, there is plenty of surface rust (sadly!) to ensure good bondage
The peeling issue I experienced awhile back on an MGA new metal, it looked great then it started shedding skin

[merbesfield]

Good point about the new clean metal. I was referring to the joints and the heavy welds he has. I know those will rust very quickly due to all the tiny pores and condensation. If he can get the paint into those pores and crevices he stands a much better chance of fending off future Tin Worms. I actually prefer Zero Rust myselfover POR 15, which has shown to stick quite well to older metal and pretty well to new. Of course Expoy Primer is the best. Note that you need to remove any of this paint before welding any parts together bc Mig welds will NOT like this paint and cause lots of bad welds and frustration. Plus the off gasses are probably very toxic I would imagine.

[Don C]

+1 what Bruce said about Rustoleum primer. I painted my home made mailbox stand with Rustoleum primer almost 20 years ago and here's what it looks like today, this is in northern NJ where they use a lot of salt in the winter. I think I've gone through 3 mailboxes that rusted out yet the stand goes on. I did recoat it about 5 years ago during the last mailbox refit.

[ukinusa]

Have been slowly pressing on - family visits getting in the way ! and ...shame on me, a 912E that was in local warehouse since 1992 (last dated tags) Solid and runs well after some tlc...which of course took time away from the 356...


Meanwhile, there was "glob patch" of metal that needed to come out ...



but the heater tubes are now in and the torsion mount reestablished. Not the most elegant of repairs as pushing my skill levels and learning as I go. Have do some fine grinding to tidy up the visible areas - the rest will be buried. Making the end plate proved "interesting" but turned out pretty well.

The end plate is over size and will be tacked in, and then trimmed to size when I get the longitudinal sorted ...and like the other side it is too long as well, so will be cutting it half again shortly !

[John Pierce]

Nice repairs and cool 912. Those '70's car did have hideous bumpers didn't they!!

[ukinusa]

Have to agree, but being a 911 body I wonder if it's practical to (easily) adapt the front and rear bumpers ends to loose that 5 MPH "muppet bumper" thing ! Be that as it may, it's a fun car car to drive and wants to go with its fuel injected 4 banger, 2 ltr. 914 (aka) bus type 4 engine ! Maybe I can sneak a 912e project thread into Justin's site without him noticing

[merbesfield]

[quote="ukinusa" post=33388]Have to agree, but being a 911 body I wonder if it's practical to (easily) adapt the front and rear bumpers ends to loose that 5 MPH "muppet bumper" thing ! Be that as it may, it's a fun car car to drive and wants to go with its fuel injected 4 banger, 2 ltr. 914 (aka) bus type 4 engine ! Maybe I can sneak a 912e project thread into Justin's site without him noticing [/quote

Not too difficult to backdate these but not really worth the cost and will probably be worth more as 912 someday.

[JTR70]

Congratulations on the 912E find Steve! I'd welcome and encourage any of you guys with later Porsches to really consider sharing your restorations in the 911 section. We'd like to learn how those cars go together too!

Your longitudinal cap repairs are coming along great Steve.
Justin

[ukinusa]

Wow 4 weeks since here But have had back to back visits for the last month from family in the UK - so priorities elsewhere.

Now back at it ...continued with the longitudinal and trial fitting end caps and the getting everything lined up. Being second time around, makes life a lot easier, for now ! I have clamped or lightly tacked and/or clamped everything so nothing is permanent (and I still have to paint/seal inside).

The end of added pie area needs trimming back to be square(ish)...


Front lining up nicely - won't need too much adjustment...


I needed to pull out the rusted metal of the rear wall - that was a royal PITA - the left side was well rotted so not so bad, but the right side was challenging. Looks a little ragged but getting the metal sandwich apart was essential...



Kinda butchered so will need lots of small surgery to clean up


But then trial fitting the new wall - cut in half first so I can slide each end in...shuck (or words like that ) Sort of fits but not even close on the tunnel/hump.









Initial enthusiasm now severely dampened I am going back to tie up the longitudinal and get back to this after some deep and meaningful thoughts... and helpful ideas please !

PS - this is what I started with - if only they hadn't cut the middle section out !

[John Pierce]

Don't you hate it when the nice new piece of metal gets delivered and you have such high hopes for an easy install? Who's the manufacturer because the curves are way off? To fix it you're unfortunately going to have to cut it to bring the curves down and inwards then add metal to fill the gaps. What a PITA!! Just like what Justin is going through with the rear sheetmetal on his coupster. Ugh. I feel your pain.

John

[ukinusa]

Trevor - surprising it's so far off - I wonder if could return it even though its in half and trimmed at the ends..?

[JTR70]

I don't know if your just fitting the wall at the moment but don't weld it in until

you've finished building this housing. I'd finish it and the seat pan hump flange repair first otherwise its going to get very unpleasant trying weld the housing up in and around the torsion tube with that new wall in your way. Also the wall should be made to fit with the mouth of this housing as its going in.

John, they are all "will fit parts" no matter who they come from. Some you have to F with more than others but eventually they "will fit".
Justin

[ukinusa]

Thanks Justin - duly noted and so I am trial fitting what remains of that structure. Luckily it was tossed into a box of 'parts' when I got the shell and there is enough to use rather than start over. Just for fun I actually tried to fit it with the wall clamped in place - impossible ! So very timely advice - THANK YOU for saving much pain later !
I pulled half the wall out and slid it in...


A pie piece needed at the rear - so strange how that was cut.



Some fresh air in there too where there shouldn't be - some quilting will be needed...



Will need to reform the "cut out" around the torsion bar...but before I do any of that I need to mount the Monkey Motion Mount, I had to fabricate that , as that too had been cut off the torsion tube but this time tossed

[ukinusa]

Desert is great for metal - just sucks for humans when it's this hot !
So on with the rocker; thought I had been super careful but the (welded in) longitudinal was pushing the rocker out...


So sliced down the back of the U channel section and pulled it back in, tacked it up and then found the front hinge end was worse ... so more slicing and shrinking. Eventually got it.




Hung the door (original) and checked my gaps - all pretty good (top looks a little tight from this angle but not too bad) :

gap is wide here but tight at front but parallel - will adjust it back later - wanted to get the overall "set up" verified


but the bottom gap was zero. 2am epiphany was that the car had been stored on its floor with no wheels etc and the rocker had been crushed, so had to "unroll" the outer edge - closer now but needs more.



With all this rocker on and off routine I also had to set the jack spur to too.

So ready for welding - maybe !