My 59A seats

[JTR70]

Dick, thank you for sharing these shots of your tour. Great stuff!
Justin

[merbesfield]

I have never done these but have seen it before. Some seats have a thin piece of wire that is used to grab hold of and pulled with ? Straps? Something down to the frame. Sorry I know, very vague, but my point is I have seen it done and it can be done. Just need to do some research. Good luck and post what you find. It does make a difference in the final appearance.

[roy mawbey]

Mark,

Here is link to the 'crease' operation on the 356 front seats. Scroll down to the text below the drawing for a full explanation.this link was entered by Emil Wojcik about 5 years ago.

http://postimg.org/image/hxcw5algf/

Roy

[merbesfield]

Mark,

Here is link to the 'crease' operation on the 356 front seats. Scroll down to the text below the drawing for a full explanation.this link was entered by Emil Wojcik about 5 years ago.

http://postimg.org/image/hxcw5algf/

Roy

Bingo, I knew someone would know where the info was. Thanks Roy.

[JR]

Thanks Mark and Roy,
I have printed these for my file!
Dick

[MMW]

Update. I made some time to work on these. Got one back almost done. Had a difficult time but did learn some things. I first put the foam on the seat frame & then put the cover on. Much pulling, stretching, more pulling finally got it. Had a lumpy spot in the top back where the foam ended after it slid over the top. Went to pull it apart & the frame slid right out easily & left the foam in the cover. So next time I put it together the foam went in the cover first then the frame, simple.

I shaved down the sharp corner of the foam back to reduce the bulge. It helped a lot but not perfect. The original had no padding on the back so I'll just leave it. If the head rest brackets weren't there it would be even better but I'm not cutting them off.

I was going to use the new burlap back they sent but after test fitting I noticed it was slightly bigger. It has sewn channels for the string so it would need to be cut & re-sewn. Since the rubber rings hook to this it would have made them looser so I kept the original. I pulled on it to make sure it was still strong & it passed my test. Then I noticed some slight abrasions in the original where the hooks for the rubber rings had rubbed or got caught. So I wrapped the new burlap around the frame first then put the original over it to give it some protection.

Last issue is at the lower sides. I have a gap. If it was wood I could just stretch it & tack it but only metal under this area. I'm thinking of hand sewing it? It doesn't have to be pretty as it gets covered by the hinges but I would like some extra support there pulling it together. Any suggestions?

One other thing. The tacks in the old covers were #3 about 3/8" long. These worked fine for the first layer but since the new covers are thicker I bought some longer ones, 9/16". My nailing isn't quite as neat as it is not just one row when finished but overall I like it.





Abrasions in original burlap from rubber ring metal hooks.





Seat back in foam first. Not recommended.



Lump in back from foam.

[MMW]

Here is the foam which is causing the lump.




After shaving.




Cover on.




Still a lump but looks worse in this pic than in person.







Here is the gap at the lower side. Any ideas other than hand sewing?

[JR]

MIC,
I was told by Rafael at Autos International to cut the side of the seat backs (on each side) up 7 inches from the bottom and one inch in from the rear seam.
That should flatten the opening that you show on the sides.
The chrome reclining side pieces should cover the openings.
Measure twice-cut once!
Dick

[Don C]

Mic,
Looks good! I think when I had my hinges off the guy who recovered mine, way back when, slit the cover higher then yours then glued it down. Maybe sewing AND glueing it would take some of the stress of the stiches.
What color did you order, I like it!
Regards,
Don

[MMW]

On to the bottom.
Seat pan & springs. I decided to try it with out putting any foam inside the springs.


Burlap first.


Then springs. Don't forget to lock the springs into the clips on the base.


Next I put the foam in the cover first & then onto the springs.


This "board" gets wrapped around & slides into a channel on the base. When all done you carefully crimp the channel tight to hold it all together. Don't do this until you are completely satisfied & done.



I think I need to figure out a way to tie down the center to define the "crease". Here are the loops on the frame for this purpose.


Not much to tie to.

[MMW]

Here are three pics of the bottom. I had it apart & back together. You can see that the crease is there but not pulled down. I can press it down easily as there is an air space between the foam & the cover. It would not take much pressure to pull it down which would give it more definition.

I also need to add some foam inside the springs to make it a little firmer.






In this pic you can see the defined crease in the foam. I just need to get the cover to sit tight on the foam.

[MMW]

Dick, it is cut 1" from the back seam & up 5" which is how it came. The back is stretched really tight & I feel if I cut it to 7" it will just open up more. It's just frustrating to me as I'm sure to the guys who do this every day it is simple.

Messed around with the bottom & still can't get the proper feel. I added foam inside the springs & it's better but not quite to my liking. Still have the issue with the crease. Another frustrating thing for me. Everything I have read from people who have done these on their own don't tie them & are happy. Maybe I'm just asking for to much.

[Jack Staggs]

Mic, I like to build up the bolsters up an leave the centers alone, giving a lower seating position with higher sides, kinda like a Sport Seat. The crease MUST be tied down for proper appearance.

[JR]

MIC,
When I got my seat covers I could not pull the backs over the frame-they were too tight. I called and talked with Rafael at Autos International and he said cut 7 inches up and one inch from the back seam. Do not cut too high nor too far to the rear or the chrome recliners will not cover the slit. Try cutting about another inch if you have them cut 5 inches already. As Don mentioned you could put a stitch in the part that is folded up and use some adhesive if the adhesive will not melt the foam.
As Jack and Agustin said the crease should be tied down. I did not tie mine down and it looks OK to me, but I'm not a pro.
Before you try and put the screws for the recliner arms thru the covers open up where the holes are so that no part of the cover is introduced into the hole. You could strip the threads on either the screw or welded on nut.
On all of the tieing and stiching I used bees waxed whipping thread that I have for my sail boat. It is longlasting and should not deteriorate with age. Places like West Marine etc that sell sail boat supplies should have it.
If you have any more questions or if I have not covered something give a holler.
Dick

[JTR70]

Looking good Mic! Like with everything else on these cars; trial and error, fit and refit but eventually you get the desired outcome. It makes sense that lower crease would have to be tied down if you want it more pronounced than it is. If you were to do this again I gather you would request leads be sewn into that area. Their going to be nice looking once you get them dialed in. Stay with it! Justin
BTW: a lot of great tips you guys, Thanks!