SC Coupe Restoration

[Don C]

Jack,
On my '65C the bumper end to wheel arch is 4" each side, must have been done midweek!

[Jack Staggs]

For clarification, the measurements we took showed DIFFERENCES FROM ONE SIDE TO THE OTHER, measuring from the end of the bumper to the wheel arch. None were equal on any given car, with distances of up to 2 3/4" variation. These measurements were taken on cars where the general fit of the front of the bumper appeared well centered to the nose panel. Further adjustment to allow the wrap around to be more symmetrical would cause the fit of the bumper to be significantly off at the nose.
BTW, this was done only on B/C cars.
Thanks
J

[tperazzo]

Thank you everyone for commenting on my progress before paint. I truly appreciate it! The good and the bad. More pics to come soon.

I too have seen lots of variation on bumper fit and I've also snooped around on other sites like Willhoit Restoration and some factory photos too.

I'm the first to admit that the fit of my bumper is probably "over restored". It needed some reshaping to begin with due to collision damage, but I purposely tightened up the fit to the body more than the factory did I think. I do like the way it turned out though

As for the variation to the wheel arch, I get 2 3/4" on each side which is on the high end of your results. As you know the brackets are slotted. I have my bumper pushed all the way in as far as it will go. I ended up de-welding the battery box bumper bracket to push it back further and re-center the bracket to the fender slot hole. I didn't move it 2" though....wow! The repro wall was off a little bit in regards to the bumper bracket position.

My drivers side nose and front fender were in nice shape, so I tried to make everything match that side.

Thank you Jack and Trevor for reporting your findings here. Its so helpful to have extra eyes on these things. I put more time than expected on that bumper! I think the rear bumper will be easier to fit, hopefully.
Tom

[JTR70]

Thank you Jack, that is great information to know and relieves a lot of unnecessary worry in this process. With that much variance in mind you have to ask yourself where do the discrepancies lie? Is it in the bumper, the wheel arch...or both??
Thanks again for sharing what you guys found.
Justin

[Jack Staggs]

[quote="tperazzo" post=33475]Thanks Justin, I'm just glad it was caught in time otherwise I would have to live with it.

Here are pictures from every angle of my mocked up front end. All you eagle eyed guys, please let me know if something is amiss or could be improved upon.

Fire away!





"Quote"


"You may fire when ready, Gridley!"
Well that's me, throwing a monkey wrench in the works. The contour of the front bumper looks better than probably any OG car that I have seen. But... recently Trevor and I were measuring 6 or 7 cars we had around, including cars with OG nose and bumper there, and found significant differences as to how far the bumper wraps around towards the wheel arch. We were amazed and startled about the variation there. Not one was equal, with variations between 3/4 to 2 3/4 inches, usually short on the right hand side!
Have fun with this.

[JTR70]

Thanks guys! Began a dedicated thread here: http://www.abcgt.com/forum/14-356-Restoration-Projects/33494-Porsche-356-headlight-assembly-mounting-tips.html

So we don't jam up Tom's original post.

Justin

[merbesfield]

I have always hated and avoided dealing with my headlights for all the reasons stated here. And my paint is old. I can't imagine the fear of dealing w your beautiful paint. Would love to learn tricks about how to install headlights and have them fit and adjust etc.

[roy mawbey]

Justin,

Before I read about your last comment of scratching that paint putting the headlight assembly in place, I was thinking to myself, I bet he had to be so careful doing that after looking at that perfect silver painted front in that first photo!!

Bruce's point is interesting about seal thickness that can vary. These headlight seals do eventually part company, I have replaced mine with new some years ago. The wings (fenders), the buckets, and the complete Bosch headlight assemblies are all original with no repair work done other than painting but I notice today there is a slight clearance on the seal between chrome rim and wing on the sides. In other words the top of the rubber seal is more compressed than the sides. When you look at it, everything is great, only when you try to move the rubber do you notice this. Maybe the case to have a slightly bigger clearance than not enough to take into account the paint?

Roy

[JTR70]

This whole conversation of fitting headlights with seals really got me thinking this afternoon.

As headlight bucket distance (when I repaired this side) and paint thickness was always a concern I really hadn't tried to mount my light assemblies in earnest since I got her in final paint. I ran into a few fitment issues (of course)concerning the seal, Proper hooking at the top and overall final flush fitment against the body.

By sessions end I really got my head around it and discovered a few things along the way. I'll start a dedicated thread on the subject and maybe the more experienced can chime in as well. Anyway I got them to seat properly but nothing more scary than wrestling with these at this stage. Each time I "gathered up" the unit off the fender I was scared to death I was either going to drop the assembly on the concrete, scratch my paint or both. Glad to be past this!
Justin

[foamcar]

Late to the party but that front end looks good to me also. Great work fixing that grill opening. Glad to see you are back at it Tom.
I ordered one of those thinner h/l seals from Wolfsburg West I believe. That was for my PreA which had no seal for 34 years of the 35 I had it.

Phil

[bbspdstr]

Tom and anyone at this stage:

It may be common knowledge or just common sense, but please pay special attention to the headlights and fit with the lights to wind up on the car on each side. As noted on this site and maybe others, different seals have slightly different dimensions, so varying seals can match various clearances.

I am going through that now on an early 911. I had to use a thin 356 seal instead of a thicker foam 911 seal due to the way the (repro) fender was made. Conversely, I have had to use a 911 seal when the car involved had wide clearance from bucket to opening of fender.

After a thin primer on that area, mask until ready to spray or spray a thin coat of color in and around the bucket and re-try the headlight and seal and then re-mask before the final paint spraying.

It's a bear to do all this right after a nice paintjob.

-Bruce

[roy mawbey]

I like it too Tom. Looked hard still looks fine.
Well done!

Roy

[JTR70]

Beautiful! I think you're there...

[John Pierce]

Looks dead on even with the bumper. Nice welding job!!

[Don C]

looks great Tom!