SC Coupe Restoration

[tperazzo]

Your gaps would look fine from 10 inches, from 10 feet as you mention better than perfect.

I agree they look great. And thanks for taking the time to report those detailed numbers. I hope to achieve similar gaps after paint and filler, so I think I'll be ok now.

Thanks,
Tom

[roy mawbey]

Don,

Your gaps would look fine from 10 inches, from 10 feet as you mention better than perfect. I keep looking at mine and stepping back, then a little further.....

Roy

[Don C]

[Don C]

Tom,
My car may look OK from 10 ft. away but its pretty rough. The deck lid gaps are all over the place.

[tperazzo]

Thanks Bruce, the 911 should be a fun no frills car that I can enjoy without being overly worried about scratching it. The mechanicals are very intriguing to me and I think it will give me something fun to hot rod for a change.

As to the deck lid fit I have no idea? I do remember that the gaps were tight, but your right they seem tighter no without paint? Weird.

At first I thought I would massage the perimeter a bit to gain a tad more clearance. This was a risky experiment because it bulged the body just outside the opening. So I shrunk it back down with my TIG torch and hammer dolly. This gave me a half millimeter at best.

Something had to be cut and it wasn't only in the corners.

I'm not sure this is the best way, but I just opened up the gap at the rear with a grinder and then welded the edge.



This is also a dicey operation because this naturally shrinks the unconstrained edge which warps the deck lid skin into a potato chip.

It was slow going, with lots of hammering, but I welded the entire width of the bottom.








I constantly checked the shape with my trusty ruler.



So I ended up with 3mm which I hope is enough. One corner is about 4, but a bit of filler will make it even.

If you don't mind Don, I'm curious what your C gaps are on the deck lid. If you can't tell by know I'm coping your car!

So hopefully I'm clear to move to the doors to fit all those goodies. I found a note in one of my parts bags that said fix broken guide tube. Good thing because I forgot about it.

Here's a picture of the tube that is supposed to do welded to the inside of the door.




I scabbed on some more metal to the existing tabs. This time it's a little beefier.



More tiny welds.


Thanks for all the help here,
Tom

[bbspdstr]

"The new toy is a 1974 S. I got it because it's smog exempt in CA, cheap, non-salvaged title, and rust free. Okay there's no such thing as rust free, but she's solid."

I just finished one of those for the son of the original owner. He tried to get it done before his Dad died, but it was too late....so he finished it for himself as a tribute to his Dad. He chronicled the redo on Facebook and I think another (Maybe Pelican) site. As the engine wasn't original to the car, he sold that and bought a 3.2 and got a great "driver" quickie resto.

I welded a vertical perimeter of 1/8" steel around the inner walls of the cockpit to stiffen the chassis, but it was not very rusty, just the typical old Targa flex.

I knew Ivan Holtz's Dad and he would have been very happy. He was with Ivan when Ivan had me PPI a 356SC sunroof...$18k in '99. I looked it over, took a short drive....Ivan's dad just walked over and said "Is it worth the money?".... I replied affirmatively.....so he turned to Ivan and said "Ivan, give the man his money....let's drive it home."



Glad you got the 30/60 measurements on the bumper bracket holes, but of course, the later models were more predictable, but also had variations .... just not as hugely variable as the pre-B cars.

As for lid gaps, especially rear....I have found that as soon as the paint is removed, the openings shrink and the lids expand. I just haven't figured out why over hundreds of examples. I have too often had to cut a 'smile' on the upper corner of the opening's outer edge and create (weld after moving the short vertical back) the needed 2 or 3mm for even a 'tight' fit. Doesn't seem to matter open or closed later 356s...even later A and B cars have this malady occasionally.

If you figure that phenom out, let me know, please!

Good luck,
-Bruce

[tperazzo]

Thanks again Don for your help. Good intel from a good car like yours is a godsend.









And the left side is done too.


Yay, onto fitting the deck lid. C's seem to have tight gaps on the deck lid but mine are touching.
Will post pictures soon on that repair.




2mm gap at top, and less than 1mm on bottom. Hmmm.


Thanks for following!
Tom

[Don C]

Tom,
Mine measure 30mm x 60mm. Your top corner radius look about right.

[tperazzo]

Thanks Per, I knew I'd seen that picture before.

Those strategic saw cuts to the bumper brackets did the trick.



Just like Don's and the manual although the adjustment is still maxed out! I'm happy with the fix because you can't tell anything was modified.

So, I think I finally conquered the bumpers except for the decos. Mine are a mess and I'm not sure they are even usable so I haven't mounted them yet. As Jack said whatever I use will need to be modified to fit.

Please have a look at the bumper cutouts below. Sorry they are sideways. They rotated during upload?





It appears the bottoms are off. Could someone measure the cutouts and the corner radius for me?

It seems like I need to doctor up the lower portion of each cutout. There is plenty of clearance for the brackets.

Thanks in advance,
Tom

[JOP]

Tom, this is how Porsche wanted it to look..... Atleast in our Porsche manuals



JOP

[tperazzo]

Thanks guys. I totally jinxed myself by saying the welding is done. I'm sure that's why these bumper brackets are giving me trouble now. Good point Jack about the dog leg orientation. I wish it was easy as flipping the brackets over.

Justin, I too was thinking of welding on the decos, but Jacks method is ideal. I will pull out the decos and see what needs to be done.

The new toy is a 1974 S. I got it because it's smog exempt in CA, cheap, non-salvaged title, and rust free. Okay there's no such thing as rust free, but she's solid.


The bad news is that it's missing everything so it's a puzzle. My C will be totally stock and original as possible, while this 911 will be a hot rod/track car. Like an angel on one shoulder and the devil on the other. It also has some accident damage to the structure in the right front.

I haven't decided about body mods, but most likely will back date it to 73 with the long hood.

Right now it's giving me more incentive to finish the 356 and I'm enjoying the parts hunt so far.
Cheers,
Tom

[John Pierce]

Nice fix, Tom. I agree that Don's back up light looks better set.

So now that you've teased us..... What's the year and model of the new toy? It looks pretty rust free in that one picture. Gotta love projects!


JP

[JTR70]

yeah, that's the fix Jack; Cut the deco in three pieces and hide the joint under the bumperettes. I was initially envisioning something to do with a TIG welder but your suggestion is much more practical. Thanks again for sharing with us all your hard fought wisdom!

Nice Find Tom, how complete and rusty is it? You'll make David Gensler proud with this new purchase. Look forward to the build!
Justin

[Jack Staggs]

Just for reference, Tom's photos show the rear bumper bracket upside down from the mounted position. The dog leg kicks the bumper UP, when mounted.
Nice work, Tom.

[tperazzo]

Thank you all for your pictures, feedback and advice!

Jack is right about the tip alignment being off. The internal brackets were always missing I think or at least I couldn't find them after all these years, ha ha.

I had some made and they arrived today. Let me know if you need some.



This bracket is needed to accurately position the bumper tip to the internal fender brace.

I like the clearance between the light and bumper that Don's car has and looks right to me.

It's probably hard to see in the picture but the bumper brackets look a little off before the z bend area.



Without an oxy/acetylene torch I wasn't going to try to bend these, so I cut them partially.



And welded back together.



The black lines on the table represent the before and after. Hopefully this will give me the clearance needed for that light after I modify the other three brackets.

Thanks Jack for the shattered glass warning. I was not being careful the first go around.
I really appreciate the help guys.

In other news, this happened.



I'm such a sucker for junk. I won't touch this until the 356 is painted but I will create a new thread on this site.
Tom