Another long term storage, this time a T-1 Coupe

[Jbrooks]

They just keep falling out of the sky. This time a 56 T-1 coupe, but only off road for 18 years this time.
Got a blind call from the lady who owns it. Not real clear on all the details yet, but went in for a floor repair, that turned into a full restoration 15 years ago. Most of the repair and paint interior is finished, just needs being put back together, and then made road worthy.

The shop owner who has been working on it since the “Chinese invented arithmetic”, gave up and retired. I have not looked at it yet but from the phone calls should not be impossible. It will probably need all the stuff we just did on the 65SC,. Then engine brakes, carbs, fuel system. Hard to know now until we get into it, has not had a battery in 15 years. We will install a Vintage Trader LED lamp kit and headlight set.

Will post more as we determine what it takes. But at lease I will have a project for a while.

[JTR70]

A definite recurring theme here John. Looks very straight forward but you'll know for sure once you get your hands on it. Thanks for sharing it.

Justin

[Jbrooks]

Well, it’s not too bad. Got it moved over on the island and into storage for now. It’s Dry, no fluids, no battery etc. starting a list of what needs to be done. It’s been in restoration for 15 years, and not finished. The owner is a very nice woman, who has owned the car for quite some time. The Guy doing the restoration had a small interior shop, He is closing up and moving to Idaho. Car looks 90% done, he claims the engine and mechanicals are all done 10-12 years ago. But it dry, there is no oil in the motor, I don’t think it been started after rebuild. Gas tank is dry but clean,

So it’s going to be from scratch, I have no history or knowledge of the skills of the previous guy, except he was slow. We will start with .borescope the cylinders, the marvel oil through the plug holes. Then pump in oil through the oil filter pipe back through the pump and oil galleries , hand rotate, hoping we get some oil into the mains and rods journals. Hand oil the rockers with a hypodermic syringe. Then a leak down test, some serious spinning with the starter, no plugs to check oil pressure, and do a compression test.

Next will be the fuel. Tank looks clean, but I will use an electric pump and small fuel tank to check for leaks and floats and accelerator pump volume. If that’s all good, it’s start it up, get it to temperature, standard oil leak test, and we should be good….. next will be brakes, but that’s just hydraulics, I have lots of kits, hoses etc.

I will go through the electrical, put Jules “Vintage Trader” LED light kit in it, finish the assembly and start to drive it. Easy right…..

So the plan is to get the GO working, then the STOP, then the pixies, and see if a T-1 will still go 80 mph. It’s only been 53 years since I worked on a T-1.

thanks for following, updates as we progress

[Scott B]

This will be interesting to follow along. Always wanted to work/own a T1 Love the front nose on these cars.

[Jbrooks]

Got almost a full day today doing a deeper inspection. No fluids at all, she is completely dry. Front Brake cylinders were installed backwards, shoes pushing on the hydraulic side, not the adjuster. They all seem to have frozen pistons, but that is expected with this long off the road. No muffler or starter, missing a cover next to the battery. Lots of strange bolts and screws. But over all a very nice T-1 coupe. Have not got out the trammel pins for measuring hard points but my eye says it’s close, with a 6-10mm twist, but trammels and lasers will tell real the story.

Got the borescope in the plug holes, cylinder are ok so far, no rust or scoring, but did not rotate the crank, no oil.. The engine was rebuilt shortly before it started the restoration, and driven some, but #2 cylinder has never seen fire. Bright and shinny inside, clean plug, the others has some carbon buildup, looked like very rich mixture. But No#2 still bothers me. It probably ran but poorly, but why #2 is dead? Might be simple, a plug wire or plug, the rotor and cap are new, wires look Ok visually. We will see in a few weeks. I was hoping I could avoid pulling the “New Motor” but it might be easier on the run in test stand to trouble shoot.

Over all, no show stoppers so far. Will put oil in it via the oil filter inlet line. I have a kluge that pushes oil through the galleries into the sump. After a quart I will hand rotate the crank until the lifters and push rods start to drip. This is a slow process but it better than a spun bearings. With no starter to spin the motor it will be the only get pressure is via the oil line, from a pressure tank.

[JTR70]

Looks nice in that black paint. Interesting interior, Late version front seats and looks like the rear seat pan was replaced with a later T5/T6 version with the center hinge point for the split back rests. Cute little armrest/ center support for them too. Entire battery box has been replaced with an interesting battery cable route. You've got some correction work for sure John.

[Jbrooks]

JR
Yes lots of metal was replaced, it was sandblasted and put on a rotisserie in 2008. Same guy had it for ever, but never completed it, but he did charge her for work. And some duplicate parts and outrageous labor time. Not a 356 knowledgeable shop. I am finding Lots of “why did he do that”?

On a good note: Celeste found the starter at the old shop today. Still looking for muffler and a couple oddities.

I dropped the drums started inspecting the suspension, brakes, rolling parts. All the wheel cylinders are stuck. I did get two pistons out by running a tap inside and when it bottomed out the piston finally twisted and could be pulled. . Two lowers are stuck so fast I am afraid I will brake the tap. A little heat tomorrow. Right front wheel cylinders were backward, the rotation was into the hydraulic side of the slave cylinder. Left side was fine, but it would have had a bad pull in an emergency stop. Rear drums were turned, and I took off the axel nuts with a 3/8” ratchet with one hand. I felt like Superman, removed the cotter pin, slipped the socket I use for generator nuts to spin the drum, and be-geezus it came loose, both sides. They were cotter pinned, what else will I find.

Anyone want to guess what’s wrong with this picture?

Did get a good day in today. Lots of stupid things like every 8 mm bolt is 20 mm long. The gas pedal floor bottom portion looks like a porcupine. Lots of little things, and I sent a friends storage facility for a few weeks, until, I can get an open space at our shop, so it’s an extra 50 mile drive each day. Trying to work from a tool bag also sucks. Hope to get the borescope photos off the SD card in the morning, if so, I will photos of the cylinders below.

Sorry about the date stamp

[JTR70]

Looks like we're missing a spring down low there. Are you happy with how the bores are looking? Nothing more unpleasant than working on a car remotely especially 50 miles away!