65 SC Resurrection starting.

[Jbrooks]

Slow day cleaning the shop up for the paint stripping. Kept smelling that bad gas smell, from the carburetor cleaning. Traced it outside to the old tank. Decided to open it up and look inside. Boy was that a bad idea, I may never get the stink out. The loose rust and scale is from the top of the tank. Just like before when we split a tank to test electrolysis rust removable. The top surface has most of the rust you see in the fuel filters. The tar from gas remnants tooled like undercoating.
I have never seen a tank this bad..

the black tar in the below left photo, was still pliable and damp. That is the stink


this photo shows the clearance at the top of the tank and the internal slosh baffle. So when cleaning one with Evaporust or molasses, do the upper surface first. You can see a little clearance between the baffle and top. The ends and finally the bottom surface. Same process when using POR-15 or some other tank sealant. The baffle is almost solid at the bottom, but open at the top. So put the sealer in the top surface first, so it can get into the bottom half.
A
Another fun day today, thanks for looking

[JTR70]

Is this tank really savable underneath all of that? That laser sure would be nice right about now.

[Jbrooks]

Floors….my least favorite part of these cars. The jute came off with some heat and a wide scraper, but the rest of the floor was a little different. Knotted wire brush was polishing, not removing the undercoat. Bob had a great idea oscillating saw or multi tool with a scraper and a 1” blade with dull teeth it got under and chipped off the old tar and paint, like a needle scaler on a weld. It worked super, easiest floor we have done. Lots of hidden surface rust under areas that looked solid and intact. But no holes or swiss cheese in the low spots. Next is the knotted brush, scotch bright surface conditioning pad, then Ospho (Orthophosphoric acid), 3M 8307 self leveling seam sealer, epoxy primer then Raptor truck bed liner.



I know some people will not like the idea of Raptor, but it looks like factory undercoating, tuff seeps in to any cracks and will permanently seal the floor. It’s also will strengthen the floor and reduce road noise. Goes on like shatz but much harder but urethane based and flexible.

[JTR70]

Again, that laser they confiscated from you sure would have made this clean up go a lot quicker. What's going on with that BTW? The floors in this car look solid.

[Jbrooks]

Justin

most of the loose rust was from the topof the tank. We bought a NOS OEM tank. Floors done with a coat of Raptor Bed Liner. It’s went fine, and aluminum foil is your friend for masking..

[Jbrooks]

Body work begins, lots of previous repair, nothing serious yet. Working on gaps, and door skins, rusted from the inside as usual from bad previous repairs. Blisters on the color coat was caused by the spray filler out gassing. Color was applied before it cured, In places it’s over 1/16” thick. Sanded and stripped forward of the A pillars, first coat of sealer / primer applied, guide coat to look for deep scratches in the fender.

[JTR70]

Very straight forward repaint. I'm used to seeing progress shots of an inch or two of old bondo being removed under the trunk lip area...That car is in phenomenal condition. Keep up the great progress John.

[Jbrooks]

Door skin repairs done, ready to hang and fit test. Stripped the battery box. Photo below a couple small patch pieces to plug holes. Then it got a 5mm thick layer of 3M urethane seam sealer sealer on the bottom and up the sides.

Finally ordered the Glasuirt black paint, so we are only 2 more coats of primer & glide coats and a week of block sanding away from making this black again.

[JTR70]

Man, jealous of your shop floor space. What does a quart of Glasuirt run these days?

[Jbrooks]

JTR 70

Glasuirt single stage, 22 line is $3600.00 a gallon. The 55 line, two stage is $2750.00. Now that is in Washington state an we have some crazy use fees on everything. A single gallon was up over 1000.00 over the last one I did.

[JTR70]

WOW!! For Black Huh? Its been several years since I bought a complete system but I'm sure that quote included the reducer and catalyst. I know that Yellow is the most expensive color then Red so I can only imagine what a system of those shades run.

[Jbrooks]

Door gaps set, block sand re prime, block sand, rinse and repeat. Life is good

[JTR70]

Shes looking good!

[Scott B]

Building up arm strength! This is speeding along nicely.

[Jbrooks]

Wet sanding the second primer coat, the body is super smooth now, but one more primer and wet sand to get it like glass.

put it together, block sand, fit test, take apart, prime, repeatedly.
thanks for looking

[Jbrooks]

Wet sanding complete, started the trim out paint, and recheck the fits. Couple of photos of the hood align pins. There are 8mm pins used to put in the hinge point holes. We check the original alignment and gaps. Ream out the holes to accept a 8mm pin. Then remove the bolts and the hood. This allows us to easily remove the hood for fit and gaps. The pins will support the hood, make it very east to remove and replace.


Body is like glass now, blocked and sanded , it’s starting to turn black , that’s sanding dust on the underside hood where the chrome attaches, forgot to tape it for wet paper

[Jbrooks]

Bumpers done, I need to put the lights on, but the look like new. Bob fabricated some holders from EMT that makes the easy to flip and handle.

The deck lid and hood are painted on the underside now

Door trimming paint complete, as soon as it warms up a little around here, the entire car will become a single color. We originally planned this for August or early September, but things happen. But it progresses.