Tweet
John reckon you are right it will run. Much better to do it that way and see how everything else performs too. You know I think spend the money wisely just to see. Good reports!
Roy
Roy
-
-
Powder coating all day. Did a couple quick measurements on piston cylinders. Cleaned up the calipers, upper tins and ran them through the powder coat ovens. Nothing too spectacular about this. Turned out nice as usual.
Owner wanted black calipers, I did not want to go through the zinc and cad plating on these. PMB wants too much per set. Powder is better in the long run I my opinion. I did the last couple sets yellow, new guys always ask if they are carbon disc, stupid new 996.2.3GTS owners just don’t have a clue, but have a good lease rate.pistons and cylinders measure fine, Now to find a set of rings. The resurrection progresses. FDA is still holding the laser welder hostage, but the first of next week I going to start using it while waiting for the inspection.
thanks for lookingAttached FilesPushed around since 1966.Comment
-
-
Good weekend, went to the PCA concourse Saturday, rolled over 100,000 miles on the 912. Forgot to photo the change, but got one when we got to Denny Akers. Have owned the car since 66. The most reliable car I have ever owned. Spends a lot of time up on mountain logging roads, just a blast to drive.Spent all day Sunday finishing up the calipers and getting ready for assembly. Rebuild Kits were at the other shop, so it was just parkerizing the bolts and final hone on the hydraulics bores. Put them together later when I remember to bring the kits.
Then with nothing left on brakes, started back on the Carburetors. Now this is a real challenge, frozen, gummed up, corroded. I have seen ones out under a tree for 10 years that were in better shape. Time to shift over to the hydro blaster we built a couple years ago and start cleaning them. One has been in the ultrasonic cleaner for several days, 90 min at a time. Probably 12-15 hours total on the one in the tank at 50C. It’s coming back but ugly. All the ports are plugged, has caked dried gasoline in everything.
So it time to step up and get out the big gun. I should have started here.
Attached FilesPushed around since 1966.Comment
-
-
CARBURETORS…..
Now parked for 38 years what could be wrong? Frozen throttle shafts, All the brass jets and plugs bolts corroded and frozen. 8-10 mm of hardened goo in the float bowel. Jets and passages plugged. Forgot the before photos, but that might scare someone into Weber’s. With some 6 point wrenches and some directed heat, I broke one carb down and tossed it in the ultra sonic cleaner. Normally 90 minutes at 110 deg your done. Went in to eat, came back a couple hours later, crap looked like I forgot to turn it on. Almost no noticeable effect, still hot but still plugged and gummed up. Another 90 min, nothing, then again, and again and again. After a week, I gave up. They were coming clean but, I can not believe how slow.
Normally a carb will clean up in a single cycle. This one turned the fluid black like normal, but nothing was coming off except sone grease. I would spray with cab cleaner, let it soak, toss it back. Slowly worked but, taking
First photo is the storage tub, white stuff is the media, dried out and stored from last use. Pump and media feed line up to the gun. Second is the amount of stuff in the water from the first carb. Cleaning the cabinet and tank after use is pretty simple. You let the media settle to the bottom for 10 minutes, the siphon off the dirty water down as close to the silicon spheres as you dare, then let it completely dry. I have several tubs with different sized media. To change it, you put the sump pump in a 5 gal bucket of fresh water, turn it on and rinse out the inside of the cabinet. Slide out the old dirty tub , slide in a new tub, add water, start working. Brain dead easy.
So this afternoon I got out the Big Guns. I had the blast cabinet configured for dry garnet blasting for calipers. They were pretty cruddy even after the degrease tank. Cleaning them had contaminated the media anyway, so drop the door, removed the garnet and the dry plumbing and set up, the wet side. Easy enough, remove the bottom door and dry side media hose. Slide in the storage tub with the sump pump and old glass spheres from last time a couple years ago. Hook up the media hose, add water and presto we are ready, probably 15 minutes to change over.
Took the completely assembled carb, tossed it in the cabinet and started cleaning it up. 5 minutes later I have a like new carburetor ( outside) . It been a year since I cleaned one with this the last few were just soft brush and carb spray. They worked ok, but not like this. First photo is complete carb out of the blaster, one on the right has been in the ultrasonic cleaner all week. Then I put it through the blaster and all the goo came out. In about 10 minutes the jet passages are clean, white flaky stuff gone throttle plates bright and the shafts are moving. The plates were corroded to the throats, the fine media removed the corrosion and witness marks. Still a little stiff, but not locked up anymore.
Attached FilesLast edited by Jbrooks; 06-18-2024, 03:39 AM.Pushed around since 1966.Comment
-
-
Another photo of the storage tub, silicone spheres before adding water, sump pump and media feed hose
and a couple more larger photos of the complete carb after cleaning the outside and throats
Attached FilesPushed around since 1966.Comment
-
-
Well John that finally really did work out really well for you !
RoyComment
-
Fuel cock…. Overhaul commenced
We pulled the fuel tank, it is beyond economical repair, but did get the fuel cock to unscrew. The sludge in the tank retained the brass screens when I pulled it out. Really cruddy. So i tosses it the bottom of the degrease tank for a week. Pulled it out, not much difference wing nut frozen, selector rod still won’t turn.
Processed it in the hydroblaster, 5 minutes later looks new. Wing nut turns, but the selector is frozen.Was a little concerned with the selector , until I removed the strainer. There was 3/8”of hardened gasoline in the bottom of the cup. Big screwdriver to pry it out. And the smell of coagulated gas is too strong to be around. The corks must be glued to the selector disc.
but it will go back in the hydroblaster, and then the ultrasonic tank. And maybe the a few days in evaporust and then an acetone bath. Pretty nasty. I left the fuel level sender in evaporust for a week, it looks new, and electrically test OK. Will still replace it, but it’s the second one that cleaned up with just evaporust soak
My surface rust problem just went away !
Thanks for looking, if you want to build a wet blast cabinet PM me l will explain what we did. I might have $350.00 in mine including some super “off-road LED” light bars inside. Mods to a 40lb Harbor Freight cabinet were easy, I can’t say enough on how well this works.
Pushed around since 1966.Comment
-
Well that Petcock really amazed me. I restored mine a few years ago got the rebuild kit I think from Stoddards. Amazing what happens when its left for years. Your cleaning items John really are saving you so many problems. Excellent results.
RoyComment
-
Its done less the final assembly. the entire fuel cock was full of bitumen, all the internal passages, pipes valve. Beyond the worst one I have ever rebuilt. Soaking in acetone did almost nothing to dissolve the goo. Spray carburetor cleaner just bounced off. but I got it and another original part stays with the car. Wet blasting is the savior of this part,
Third photo shows 1/2 of the filter screen after cleaning
My special tool for fuel cocks. Jergeson clamp and deep socket. Compresses the spring so you can get the snap ring.
.
Brake calipers are assembled and ready to install tomorrow. we will flush the metal pipes with alcohol and blow them dry before installing new flex hoses and a master cylinder. Once the stoppers are installed an bled its off to the fuel system. rebuild the pump, flush the lines, replace the flex hoses install a new gas tank and pressure check the system. we progress
we progress,Attached FilesLast edited by Jbrooks; 06-19-2024, 03:20 AM.Pushed around since 1966.Comment
-
-
Not much exciting today, got the main fuel line cleared, it was full of the black goo like the Fuel cock. After 3-4 hours with Carb Cleaner standing in a collum into the pipe in the trunk we gave up an ran a 1/16" 7x19 wire cable through the line from both ends. Even after pushing the cable through about 6' the main line was still blocked. so we put a drill on the end of the cable an spun it. The end of the cable was a little frayed and worked like a wire brush. We got 1/2 a cup of black gel out of the line, blew air though the line, added acetone soak and more air.. Line runs clean.
The FDA CDHR Field Engineer cam by early to do the inspection on the laser welder, pretty simple 5 hours I wont get back anytime soon. but after hundreds of photos and questions, The report is off to DC tomorrow. Should hear back in 1-6 weeks, but its works well I really like it. I did a 0.5mm weld bead on a 3/8" aluminum plate. Cleans just like the YouTube videos. I like it!
We also modified the wire feeder to take small spools of wire.
Pushed around since 1966.Comment
-
Today was slow, removed brake lines preparing to install new hoses. Only took half the day, but slow and steady. Was very lucky did not twist or brake a hard line. I can’t say enough good things about snap on flare-nut wrenches. Wire brush the nut, then overnight with PB Blaster. They were tight but came loose.
Also pulled the oil pressure and temperature pistons to take a look. Someone has been in the engine before. After cleaning the cylinders have numbers filed on the fins, and Permatex on the case center. The crank end play and connecting side clearance are good. So I wanted to look the pressure piston/plunger and springs. The oil pressure piston is galled pretty bad. Will get a borescope in the gallery tomorrow. I think it has been sticking 1/2 way down. I will replace both pistons.
Side note:
Also DONT use a SCREWDRIVER on the slotted bolts. They are “high torque“ fasteners, not a BIG straight slot or a pipe wrench. Get the proper P-Tool or an “APEX HTS #7 high torque driver”. Don’t leave the next guy a buggered up bolt.
This evening I pressure washed and cleaned up the flapper boxes and large tins. Once the oil and grease is gone we can zap the rust with the laser. Both need some hammer and dolly work and a complete rebuild. Then into the power coat oven.Attached FilesLast edited by Jbrooks; 06-22-2024, 07:27 AM.Pushed around since 1966.Comment
-
-
More cleaning and fixing the flapper boxes and long tins. A little hammer and dolly, align flaps adjust rods.
Still trying to figure out the laser. Started at 200W too much for sheet metal. Went down in steps to 20W. You can see a couple blue spots in the photos. Still trying to figure out the system. There are 3 variable adjustment's to play with , power, scan rate, scan width, in addition to the distance from laser head to target. As you can see the oil/ grease makes an instant flame, lots of heavy soot. But it’s working, I believe but the chinglish manual is not the best.
We tried numerous several settings, different power levels , beam widths, distances and sweep rates. Looks like 500mm for distance, 20 watts, 50mm wide and 100 sweeps per second was the best. But we managed to set soot on the lens and burned a hole it it so I stopped to go review the manual and see what it says.
But so far I like it. It’s clean, let’s see how power will stick to it. Got home, put one flapper back in the blast cabinet, cleaned right it. Most of the residue from the paint, grease and undercoat was just a black ash. Places I missed with the laser were odious but with practice I think it will do the job.
thanks for looking.Last edited by Jbrooks; 06-23-2024, 02:57 AM.Pushed around since 1966.Comment
-
Comment
-
John interesting work and methods ! Cleaning that fuel pipe with the wire was really good thinking and there are so many tools you need to do these jobs properly. I would lioke to have the experience of the latest welding gear now available. After a some years of using oxy/acetelene and then a very short trying MIG I realised just how far things have moved on in nearly 50 years since I last held a torch,
Roy
Comment
-
Laser is plugged in and working, its pretty cool, the Link is a video of us using it for the first time. Changing the sweep speeds and the power settings. More testing the unit, than working.
its just rips through all the paint grease and oil.
The photos are the backing plates after laser, smooth clean bright no rust. powder went on as expected. the rust pitting and scale came off but it shows through the powder. I figure this area needed more protection than cosmetic appearance. all these were covered in rust under oil grease and zebart coating. but the cleaned up fine and operate now like new. A couple of springs (1*9x100mm) and I am good to go.
Sorry for the cameraman, He's just old.
Pushed around since 1966.Comment
Comment