Canuck 1960B T5 Coupe Resto

[John Pierce]

That looks great. Sometimes it's easier to fix these compound curves with multiple pieces of metal to get it right. Nice job.

[Scott B]

Time to turn my attention to the drivers side outer frame rail. This whole area is a mess of rusted metal and amateur patches from the previous owner. Just need to start digging in.

This car saw colder climates - it is so true what they say about the drivers side always being in worst condition given all the crap, salt and slush sprayed to this side on the car from on coming vehicles.


First trick was to cutout the whole shock absorber piece - bolt and all. This was a little tricky in tight corners. The other need is to be sure I can reposition the shock absorber bolt in the right location later when new metal goes back in so I welded a jig to the bolt so it can be repositioned later. I also had to make as many cuts around this section before removing so when I welded in the jig it could be removed at the same time when the whole section was removed.

When I cut it out there was no backing plate as Justin was suggesting. The end of the bolt simply emerges on the inside of the corner of the parcel shelf.

[John Pierce]

Great idea with the jig. I was wondering how you were going to get it back in the correct location. Restoration Design has reproduction shock mounts along with the top angled piece, if you're looking for new ones.

JP

[Scott B]

Yes restoration design has the one bumper stop but not the shock absorber plate.

It is a great place. I am fortunate that they are not so far away. They are doing some amazing work and new parts coming out all of the time. Here is a photo of just part of their shop where the magic happens -starting with a giant roll of sheet metal.

[JTR70]

Always the desire to try and get it done in one piece but like the section you just repaired all the various twists and turns make it a bridge too far with just basic hand tools to get it clean and tight enough without requiring a section at a time type of patch. Looking good Scott!

[Scott B]

After a busy summer and work - finally back at it. Spent some time on the right rear frame shaping the shock mount profile and replacing a lot of rusted metal. Once completed started tackling the rear inner transmission frame.


[attachment:1]20161118 inner shock mount shaped and molded.jpg[/attachment]

[attachment:2]20161118 inner shock mount in place.jpg[/attachment]

[attachment:3]2016118 transmission motor mount bracket rebuild.jpg[/attachment]

[attachment:4]2016118 mount bracket rebuilt.jpg[/attachment]

[attachment:5]2016118 new piece in place.jpg[/attachment]

[attachment:6]2016118 planel replacement piece in place ready to burn in.jpg[/attachment]

[attachment:7]2016118 new piece burned in.jpg[/attachment]

[John Pierce]

Hey Scott. Unfortunately, none of the attachments uploaded to the web for viewing. JP

[Scott B]

[Scott B]

Starting to shape and fit in final piece of new metal in rear inside frame on the drivers side. Using green tape around the open edges makes it easy to mark with pen/marker to transfer shape to the new piece. Black marker on rusted metal gets soaked up and disappears in minutes. Anyone else have tools they like to mark on rusted out metal?

[Scott B]

What next? Need members input.

I will soon be wrapping up the frame rail on left and right and the transmission cross-brace (rear chassis cross member). Not sure what to do next.

I think I would like to tackle the rear inner fender on passenger side. This will be tricky as it needs to be separated from the fire-wall and b-pillar and window frame. This piece also extends into the engine bay with three overlapping pieces near the lower edge of the engine lid.
Major chunks of work still required around this area that are more or less connected to this next step:

Replace rear inner fenders both sides
Install outer longitudinal members and heater muffler tubes/insulation
Rebuild and re-install shifter tunnel
Floors
Parcel shelf
B-pillar
Lower door hinges
Door hinge area
Rear seats
Rear heal panel

I wonder if I should weld in the outer longitudinal member first to make more of a rigid box frame before removing the inner fenders. I think I will also need to tackle the from A-pillar lower hinge to hang doors when fitting the B-pillar.

Thoughts on next steps or a preferred order here of the major jobs would be appreciated from members? I would like to leave the shifter tunnel and floors until later to provide easier access to cabin.

[John Pierce]

Scott,

Looks like things are coming along nicely. You've got a lot of open space with all the pieces removed, which results in less rigidity, even with the braces. Before removing more pieces you might want to finish up some of the other areas. This also provides frames-of-reference to weld everything back in the correct locations. These cars are unibodies and removing too much may allow the car to torque out of spec. Having a Celette jig would be a quite different situation

HTH.

John

[Scott B]

Thanks John - this is my concern - too much open space. ya, having a jig would be great of course.

So, I'm thinking I should maybe weld up the outer longitudnals and some of the front A piller stuff which includes the hinge support. These pieces have all been pre-fitted and are ready to weld in.

[Phil Planck]

Scott Lots of ways to address this issue. I chose the "patch" method rather than try to completely remove that panel. It is the thinnest gauge(22) that I think was used on the 356, so welding is a little trickier. I was lucky to get 2 large patches from EASY years ago when donor cars still existed.

[roy mawbey]

Scott,

I follow your thread with interest,and some of these last replies make good sense. Without a jig you have to be careful as things do move. My experiences were all gas orientated and took place in the last century but the comments by Phil make good sense to me regarding patches.

I would follow or go back to the beginning of Justin's 356A carrera thread and make notes on how he proceeded with the welding. Its the same as the work in his current coupe to speedster in many respects. He has followed a procedure that on the Carrera has worked.

Its true also that if a panel is actually in good condition apart from one rusted area why not like Phil make a good job of patching. You will know if the metal you are welding to is stable and not thin.

Area's I patched and took much time over and leaded, have stood the test of time ( 40 years ) and the prodding, of previous MOT testers very well indeed. In fact, I am amazed they have lasted so well. The secret is the well made patch. That is important.

These days if I had to do it again I would follow Justin in his approach as it seems to look really good. I had to laugh about the headlight buckets and the long bit of 2 x 4 wood to hold across the front to make sure they were both pointing in the same direction! My wings ( fenders ) are original as are the buckets but what a simple good tip. I bet someone fitting a new fender and bucket did not do that.

Keep up the work Scott think twice before cutting.

Roy

[JTR70]

Scott, I think you answered your own question earlier, finish building the longitudinals and structural frame specific aspects first then move onto the upper closing walls and body sections. The Trickiest and most critical part is not getting ahead of yourself and "layering" your rebuild in the wrong order. Keep up the great progress!
Justin