Canuck 1960B T5 Coupe Resto

[Scott B]

Anyone have picture of the bracket position attachment for the door frame - want to check position and support points before stitching in the bottom door skin.

[JTR70]

T2A model but the set up is about the same.

Bracket faces the inner frame.






Not much height adjustment there so I'd recommend mocking it all up on the car to check for clearance with body opening to dial in your new bottoms best adjusted position .

[Scott B]

Thanks Justin for your very helpful response and pictures. Good advice to check fit and the adjust.

[JTR70]

No worries, glad it might help. I've learned the hard way that you can't assume its going to go back together and work like it used to, especially once you begin disturbing and changing panels and respective attachment points. Trial fitting before welding will preserve your sanity.
Justin

[Scott B]

Bottom door skin all fitted and set with clecos. Ready to burn. Slow process one little tack at a time and an air hose to spray air to cool as I go for each weld.

[Scott B]

With drivers door close to complete time to turn attention to passenger door.

[JTR70]

Congratulations on that! Best of luck with this side.

[Scott B]

Working on some odds and ends for lower door frame. Going to need to cut a large section out of the skin more than I had planned so will need to form and shape the lower skin myself from scratch.

[Scott B]

Doors complete with new bottom skins

[Scott B]

inner closing panels all done but not welded. This was a struggle to fit -- a lot of trimming and removing of material and then re-adding material. Also trimming to match door profile took some time. Still hesitating about welding in before I figure out the side fender piece

[Scott B]

[JTR70]

All the pieces are slowly but surely falling into place for you Scott. Keep up the great progress. Nice idea of tracing out the door gap with the splash pan BTW.

[Scott B]

trying to reset the front body section. I think I have the hood latching smoothing but gets tight with body section installed. Can anyone send me a measurement for this height or other measurements of help to be sure latching mechanism is correct?

[JTR70]

I'll get you that measurement from car (all original) for a proximation.

[Scott B]

Thanks Justin
Need the members help on next steps. There are a lot of pieces here that all need to work together for the front and quite frankly I am not sure of the right order to tackle.

tasks:

1. splash pan/outer wheel well on either side are fitted but not welded (left and right)
2. side front panel (between door and rear front fender) (left and right)
3. nose clip
4. top rain gutter (left and right)

The whole front piece is still removable and not fixed (only with screws) and the splash pans are all fitted and ready for welding – but not sure if now is the time to weld in the splash pan/outer wheel well just yet.

There seems to be three paths: one move from middle to front, 2 front to back and 3 rain gutters last

Option one
weld in splash pans
Fit up front side panel to front fender
install rain gutters
cut and replace nose

Option two
removal all and fit up new nose clip
work backwards by then installing the front section
replace rain gutters
replace side panel to front fender

Option Three
side panels
front nose
splash panels
rain gutter last





Thanks Justin
Need the members help on next steps. There are a lot of pieces here that all need to work together for the front and quite frankly I am not sure of the right order to tackle.

tasks:

1. splash pan/outer wheel well on either side are fitted but not welded (left and right)
2. side front panel (between door and rear front fender) (left and right)
3. nose clip
4. top rain gutter (left and right)

The whole front piece is still removable and not fixed (only with screws) and the splash pans are all fitted and ready for welding – but not sure if now is the time to weld in the splash pan/outer wheel well just yet.

There seems to be three paths: one move from middle to front, 2 front to back and 3 rain gutters last

Option one
weld in splash pans
Fit up front side panel to front fender
install rain gutters
cut and replace nose

Option two
removal all and fit up new nose clip
work backwards by then installing the front section
replace rain gutters
replace side panel to front fender

Option Three
side panels
front nose
splash panels
rain gutter last

[Scott B]

Hoping members can reply above to the two questions: measurement for hood latch and order of next steps. I made up some wood forms to act as a guide for when I put the front nose on later.

[JTR70]

Hey Scott, Didn't make it to the shop today but I'll get you that measurement for a baseline. However, it really doesn't matter what my car or anyone else's measures out here. The latch and all the surrounding panels both new old just have to work and align together in the end. As you know once you cut these cars apart things just change and the necessary adjustments have to be made regardless what it once measured out as. Take a look here at my journey resetting the front latch out in open space:

https://forum.abcgt.com/forum/main-forum/356-restoration-projects/281-coupe-into-speedster-conversion/page85

Its an A car but the procedure will be the same. As for your list you'll definitely want the splash pans fully set and welded in before any of the body mounts over it.

[Scott B]

Thank you Justin for the advice. I went ahead and welded in the passenger splash pan.

[JTR70]

No worries, Anytime. Looks good, yeah you definitely want that pan all buttoned up before you begin burring it with body panels.

[Scott B]

Question on Headlight buckets. Any preferred source for a supplier or recommended manufacturer?

[JTR70]

I was supplied Buckets from Dansk on that Coupster project. They were really good and fit into the fender openings well. The original Hella headlamp units also slipped over the shoulder flange. The only thing I did not like was that the housings themselves where about a half inch shallower than an original. This wreaked a little havoc with the fender brace/headlight wiring conduit but I made it all work in the end.