Lock Post - Qtr Window Transition

[admin]

I'm seeking help on how to finish off the transition from the top of the lock post (B-pillar)to the bottom leading edge of the quarter-window frame. This photo shows the position of the new B-pillar and quarter-panel patch.

Outside fabricated panel piece nearly ready to be tack welded.

Outside and inside fabricated panel pieces.

[bbspdstr]

If the door latches well, you appear to be just right. The cut-through of your overlaps will work for butting the pieces and parts but will still require filling and likely underside trimming up at the corner.

Other than some drilling and forming the little outward horizontal step at the base of the B pillar that will match the rear top corner of the door and the 'by eye' creation of the steps as they flare up toward that step as they shallow and join into the flat toward the pillar...you are good to go from what I see in the pictures.

[Jack Staggs]

Just for fun, fit the door and door seal to see if its gonna work to avoid heartache later. Be sure to jamb a bunch of tape in the seal channel to mimic the upholstery that will be behind the door seal. Bruce addressed this in another thread IIRC.
Oh, window frame too!

[JTR70]

Here's my coupe. Its a High striker but that transition into the B-pillar will be the same.

[admin]

Thanks to bbspdstr, Jack Staggs and JTR70 for the great information and pictures. George

[admin]

I'd like to try leading or lead-free solder rather than body filler to finish off the transition between the lock post and quarter window. Are the products from Eastwood worth the investment? What would you suggest?

George

[JTR70]

I used the 70/30 lead/tin sticks from Eastwood with no problems. Tom Perazzo I believe used their lead free solder with good results. Here's a link to my personal experience with it: http://www.abcgt.com/forum/14-356-Restoration-Projects/34-58367-The-75-Junkyard-Carrera-coupe-restoration.html?limit=6&start=102

Begins at the bottom of page 18 and continues through a few more pages. It might be of some use to you.
Justin

[DG58INNM]

I buy the lead free solder directly from Johnson Solder (they sell lead too). My local paint/body store keeps a few files in stock. He actually keeps a little box of lead too, for the occasional old-school guy who asks for it. I bought the paddles years ago from Eastwood, but there might be other sources for those too.

Word of warning about the lead free solder. There is a little learning curve, and it is more work than lead. It doesn't spread and shape the way lead does, its more of a dab-pat-push sort of process. If you get it too hot the tin runs out of it. It is also harder than lead, so filing is more work. On the other hand, you can use rotary tools to shape it, if you are careful (don't run them too fast). Having gotten used to it, I now really like it. But at first it was a little frustrating.
DG

[bbspdstr]

The old sources have dried up for the tinning acid/oils, save by the 55 gal. drum, so I use the Eastwood Tinning paste by the jar. Heat, brush on, heat more and when brown begins to show, wipe off.

However, the most important thing I was taught was to have the metal to be 'soldered' SURGICALLY clean, no pits uncleaned, no seams ignored. Big tools to tiny tools to dental tools, the prep may be slow but the results will last!

-Bruce