'63 356B T-6 Rebuild

[JTR70]

David, Thanks for that nice compliment. I'm just a guy with a wire-welder and some grinding disc's; I do appreciate it though! Really nice work on your threshold repair! The fit and finish is first class; You need to get that car done.. Thanks again! Justin

John, the details on my rotisserie can be found toward the bottom of page one here: http://www.abcgt.com/forum/14-356-Restoration-Projects/34-58367-The-75-Junkyard-Carrera-coupe-restoration.html

[roy mawbey]

John,

Just read your thread for the first time. Such good advice here to start with. I saw your point about bracing to stop flexing. More important on an open cab for sure. But have seen braces on coupes as well.

The photo by David showing how he has done one longitudinal and floor section properly is excellent. You do one item and only then move on. You can then always look at the good part to give you confidence for the next.

Trouble is with so many patches many of them will be covered by carpet and to replace full sections is more involved. Maybe some of those patches can be ground down and will look okay with some extra work?

Depends of course if you would be content with a nice driver or a show car? Or if your mentality just cannot accept patch work. Your Cobra makes me think it has to be a perfect job?

These guys on here will for certain answer your questions and guide you along the path.

Interesting thread for sure.

Your car will end up looking nice I am sure of that. Best of luck!

Roy

[JTR70]

John, I made it over to my buddies shop today and took these detailed shots of his T-6 door wheel area you originally asked for concerning the drain-tube etc. Hope these help... Justin









Underside view

[John Pierce]

Great photos and much appreciated!

I'm taking a step back to reassess things. I began constructing a hoop rotisserie this weekend out of 1.25" x 0.120" square tubing. The design is from Emory with line drawings and parts list from Bob Cannon on the 356 Registry forum. I got both hoops built then went to figure out the front mounting location only to find that the sway bar mounts are a bit holey and the sway bar bolts had been snapped off in all four holes. Nothing is going to be easy with this car! My next step is to try and drill out the bolts. In the meantime I'll maybe mount the front hoop to the lower front torsion bar instead with u-bolts made out of 3/8" threaded rod.

Justin: when you looked in the door well...was the floor level with the stepped down portion of the sill or was it at an angle so water would flow forward towards the drainage holes? Also, do you know of anyone who makes an aftermarket door hinge boss. As you noticed previously, mine has been destroyed. I'm going to have to hang and rehang the doors many times while repairing the longitudinals correctly.

Thanks.

JP



1.25" x 0.120" square tubing cut to size.


Welded up.


Two hoops finished.

[JTR70]

Great start on your cage John. All the problems you are experiencing with the twisted of bolts etc. are 100% par for the course working with these old Porsches. You will find that it requires taking several steps backward just to accomplish the original task you had set out to do. As far as the lower hinge bosses I am not aware of anyone offering them but they would be extremely straight forward to fabricate out of some heavy 16 gauge with a good paper template. As for the inner most floor section of the door well it is set basically at level.

However I have set these with a slightly downward angle to encourage any pooling water to run outward towards the rocker panel incorporated drain tray. If its allowed to pool in this corner (metal pointer high lighted) water eventually finds a way may eventually seep past this corner joint.

Once that happens it runs off at this end and empties into the longitudinal cavity. Obviously you don't want water getting in here again. So I like a little drop angle to keep it from pooling against that cornered joint.

I am quite stumped as to why the factory introduced that hole in the corner???? This gives water direct access into the longitudinal! This is one detail I would most certainly omit if I where rebuilding a T6...Keep at it! Justin

[Phil Planck]

Justin
Interesting photos, I assume from an A. T6B parts pictorial does not show a flange at the bottom of the vertical panel forward of the lower hinge. Did that change from A to B? I made my patch like the pictorial. Hope that was not an oops.
Phil

[JTR70]

Hey Phil,
Are you referring to the last photo? If so, that is an original undisturbed door well of a '64 SC coupe. Its built basically the same as an A car though they added that round strengthening embossment in the center. It sounds like you may have tied the tray this outer secondary wall instead of to the actual frame runner. Have a photo? Justin

[Phil Planck]

Justin
If you look at the last series of photos I posted on my Foam Car thread you can see the patch I welded in, which tries to duplicate the panel in the pictorial above the welded in photo. Maybe I need to add 1 more panel in there. That part does not show up in my pictorial parts manual for the T6B. Maybe/hopefully a T6C part only. Hey Bruce - ya reading this?

Phil

[John Pierce]

Hi Guys,

I finally got some time to work on the 356 with Holidays and work getting in the way...oh yeah....and my computer died

I'm working on the passenger door area and have to manufacture a new bottom door-hinge support as it has been massacred. The driver's side isn't that much better. The two tops ones aren't too bad though, which I can use as templates. The support is made out of 14 gauge steel and I've mocked it up. Now to build the covering part that is welded to the top, which is made out of 18 (19) gauge steel. Only problem is that the bottom coverings are different from the top ones, so I can't use mine as templates. Could someone measure the depth of the covering from the side wall flange outwards? I am getting 52 mm for the top ones, but my buggered up driver's side measures 48 mm. Not sure why they would not be the same distance from the side wall as the door should be evenly spaced.

Much appreciated.

[Phil Planck]

John
I think the important thing is that the upper and lower hinge faces are in the same plane. I am going back out to the shop tonight, so will measure my drivers side which is the area I am working on.

Phil

[DG58INNM]

John,
Would something like this be helpful for you?
DG

[John Pierce]

DG: Fantastic! Could you get a measurement for me? Much appreciated.

[DG58INNM]

Sure, I can measure anything you want. I was offering to send it to you so you could harvest the hinges. I used the left side mate to this one on another project. I may (if I have not thrown them out already) still have two similar pieces from another car out in the weeds behind my shop.
DG

[John Pierce]

Ah. Misunderstood your meaning. I'd love to buy it from you as I can use both and probably the other metal too. Let me know how much. Thanks!

[DG58INNM]

No cost. Just pay the postage. I'll look tomorrow to see if I still have the others. Its cold and dark out there now.
DG