SC Coupe Restoration

[tperazzo]

Just a quick mobile phone shot on my rear door gap now loaded with solder. I'm waiting to file the top half until I'm happy with those funky Z-shaped profiles that converge at the top. Sculpting that is a ton of work, but I'm getting more comfortable using the solder.

Anyway, I thought I would post this because it makes me happy to see this gap fixed. It was the worst on the car at about 6mm at the top with the factory lead removed. It was always an eyesore every time I walked into the garage.

Even though there is still tons of fitting to do with this door its gratifying that this thing is starting to look like a car again.

Of course, I'll be opening the gap up to 2- 2.5mm.

Thanks for watching.

[tperazzo]

Hi Phil,
Glad to see your smooth progress on the nose. My return flange is around 80-90 degrees as measured from the tangent of the lower nose. Having said that, I don't know what is original. Other cars I've seen, the flange is not parallel to the ground, instead it turn up like I tried to make mine. You might want to get other advice on this one, because I'm not 100% sure.

I saw your question about the drain holes too. Here's a picture of an unrestored and unpainted 65C with the holes you found.



This car is a cabriolet and made by Reutter. My car didn't seem to have these holes, so its either a Reutter or Cabriolet thing. And I thought Karmann were the ones with all the extra drain holes.

Good luck on your project,
Tom

[foamcar]

Tom
Back on pages 52-53 where you were forming the bottom flange on the nose, what kind of angle does it have with the front of the nose. Mine is all over the place from accident damage, etc. I will probably have to cut up into the nose a little in some areas in order to get a good repair.
Thanks - Phil

[tperazzo]

Sure Mark, Its Johnsons 523 solder and it comes in 1/4" diameter sticks. I think its around $35/lb. I'm sure the Eastwood stuff is good too.

I noticed if you let it run by getting it too hot, then its almost like it becomes non-homogenous. Hard to explain but it seems some areas take more heat to melt it again if that makes sense. It's made from several alloys and my guess is that some separate from each other at different rates.

Just be careful to control the heat input and it works great. I made my own paddles from some very hard maple that works great especially when coated with bees wax. I had some wax laying around thats used on my table saw top. Surfboard wax was tempting, but I didn't try it.

Hope that helps.
Tom

[merbesfield]

Thanks guys! I'm using lead-free solder from Johnson, ha ha lead-free lead is like ordering a cheese burger without the cheese.

The material is fairly soft, so I used a few different sizes of tapered and round files. In the nook area, I used a rotary teardrop file on my dremel.

I will get lots more practice soldering around doors and hood. Stay tuned.
Thanks,
Tom

Tom, can you tell us exactly which lead you are using? When I go to their site there are a number of choices so I want to get it right. Thanks for the help.

[tperazzo]

Thanks guys! I'm using lead-free solder from Johnson, ha ha lead-free lead is like ordering a cheese burger without the cheese.

The material is fairly soft, so I used a few different sizes of tapered and round files. In the nook area, I used a rotary teardrop file on my dremel.

I will get lots more practice soldering around doors and hood. Stay tuned.
Thanks,
Tom

[John Pierce]

Tom,
Are you using real lead or the pseudo-lead that's Eastwood sells? Either way it looks good. What files are using to get into the narrow areas?

[JTR70]

You're a natural at it Tom! Nicely done!

[foamcar]

Tom
Great job for you first attempt. Looks like it came out pretty slick. Thanks for posting.

Phil

[tperazzo]

Got started with the lead filler. It took awhile for me to get the tinning method down, but I think I'm good to go. I tested the adhesion and it seems okay. The adhesion is really sensitive to how clean the metal is, so every weld and nook and cranny had to be really clean. Here is a shot of the pillar tinned.



This was after I washed it with baking soda which took some of the shine away.

Globing it on isn't very precise, but not as hard as I expected.






Filed and quick sand.



I left the edge where it meets up to the door a little high, so I have room to remove more to fit the door best.




All in all I hope everything is right, I will be monitoring this area for lifting or anything else strange that might happen. Please let me know if anyone wants more detail.
Thanks
Tom

[JTR70]

Great final result on that repair Tom! I like the idea of extending the reinforcement channel just a little bit further. Everything closed up really nice thanks to those tiny welds, I hope to be laying them down like you one day here soon! Glad your lead tinning supplies made it. I think you'll find it kind of fun and a nice diversion from the standard rust repair chores. Keep us posted on how you're getting on with it. Justin

[tperazzo]

Continued...


Some extra welding shown where the triangular embossed plate near the hinge meets the door cavity. This was leaded over from the factory and I will lead this area too, but the lap joint is completely sealed with a weld bead to prevent contamination during leading.





The channel will get filled with some lead as the factory did to narrow the channel as it gets closer to the fender.

My lead supplies have arrived, so I'm going to give it a whirl next week.

Thanks for following this long two part post.
Tom

[tperazzo]

Ok, finally finished the ugly repair to the windshield post.

The factory included a strengthening U channel to the flat portion that faces the door opening. See twisted part damaged during removal pictured next to new ones.




I reproduced mine to be longer so that it extended further up into the pillar for extra strength


Another triangular box section was added to the upper half to further increase strength. Just for good measure

Here's the outer most piece homemade.





Welded at the seal edge and gutter edge



Instead of crimping the gutter, I just edge welded the sandwiched pieces together.


Tiny welds for you Justin! This pic is looking down the gutter channel. Some easy straightening to do after the heat input.

[tperazzo]

Tom, would you mind posting the dimensions of the Octogon cart you are using? Thanks

Sure...there are two pages in the link below:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9i4R-oybcZkeXVpN0t1UHQ2eUE/edit?usp=sharing

My design differs from the original Emory rack for a couple reasons. 1) Its faster to cut all the tubing with the same cut angle 2) my garage ceiling height is low, so I would have struggled to rotate inside.

The disadvantages are that you can't open the hood all the way for the Porsche latches to work. There is plenty of height to access the hinges etc.

Also use the workshop manual dimensions for the rear hoop distance instead of mine. I think my measurements are off by a few millimeters.

If you like it, you owe me a beer, if not don't sue me. Use at your own risk, etc...

Enjoy,
Tom

[merbesfield]

Tom, would you mind posting the dimensions of the Octogon cart you are using? Thanks