'65 356C Coupe Restoration

[justacoupe]

OK... so I finally got up the nerve to patch that hole in the back of the upper fender area (passenger side). This is one that will "show" (I've been practicing underneath the car for the most part).

I'm just goint to post a series of phots, but this is my main question: how do you know how long to "chase" low spots versus move on to the next area. In my case, I will not e using lead. That is for absolute perfectionists like Justin! At some point I will be handing the car over to a paint / body work professional for finishing. Which will no doubt involve some plastic filler.

At any rate: when do I stop "massaging" a given area? I stopped exactly where the following phots end. Give me some advie: where would you go from here on this area?

















See next post for more photos...

[justacoupe]

More pics:

[Phil Planck]

Bill
When you referred to chasing low spots I assumed you were talking about low metal from shrinking, but looking at your pictures, I now assume you are talking about spots not filled with weld. I would try to fill all of those. If you can get a bright light on the back side, look for light coming through. At a minimum you don't want to see any light leaking through your welds. My goal would be filler for sheet metal low spots that can't be raised for whatever reason. I will try to post some pictures of work I did near that area.

Phil

[Phil Planck]

This is a sequence from a similar hole on the rear quarter in a common rust area. I welded 3 alignment tabs to help locate the patch flush. This repair was done some time ago, before I learned to smooth the welds as I go. Looks similar to yours, but I did a complete fill of each 5/6 to 3/4" gap between the tack welds using the "stitch" technique I told you about. Basically a series of tacks, with the next one starting about 1/3 back in the previous tack while it is still red. I think doing this would reduce the amount of re-filling of pin holes and missed weld areas instead of tacking about(not as in sailing). The primer is over the bare metal and welds and you can see there are no low spots. This area was coverd by a lot of lead by the factory, so filler will be needed to make it look right.

[JTR70]

WOW Bill! Boy are you patient doing all the those series of spot welds in stages. I have to admit I would have stitched longer sections. I would have gotten so impatient by the second round; Nice job! Looks good! I think you were asking how far you should go on taking the heat distortion out. correct?


Really nice work Phil! Alot of thought and prep went into that patch. The alignment/holding tangs were a good idea! Justin

[justacoupe]

I "chickened out" on the stitch welding... worried about deformation. I will follow Phil's suggestion and use that approach on the next patch I do.

Yes, Phil I was talking about how far I should go re. the small "holes" (actually just low spots). Sounds like you are suggesting I try to eliminate all of them rather than rely on the painter's application of plastic filler.

I'll post a photo later today of the "final" product (subject to you guys telling me I've gone far enough).

Bill

[roy mawbey]

I really like these threads where you have to really use your brain to work out the best way of doing things. Those tabs a good idea. When I was welding my car a friend of mine went half's with me to buy a full size oxy/ acetylene set up with extension hoses and trolley. We had access to someone who did exchange bottles when empty. This was around 38 years ago. Now my friend has mig but I don't practice with it enough and practice is everything.

I can say from experience, IMO the best solution for filling those patches will be lead. For sure plastic might work for a while and fillers have improved no doubt over the years but, when I gas welded
I just did not have the experience in some places to stop distortion
and with no chance sometimes to get in and behind the repair I tried using both lead and then a plastic skim on top of that. Lead is fine if in the first place you get enough on to finish the job. I was never very succesful in placing lead over lead thats difficult.
So after my first respray in the late 70's I applied the filler to those area's that had lead hollows that I could not get better. It would seem the plastic stayed perfect for about 10 years then slowly you could see it shrinking with lines where it was applied. The leaded area's with no plastic remained perfect.

Can you believe, when I resprayed it again 20 odd years ago I did the same thing again and now the same result gradual shrinkage in those same places. Not rust causing this the repairs are rust free.

I can see now the only way for it to last is down to the metal on the body, the best welding equipment, and lead. Plastic is fine for some years, but how many...

So hard to know how far to cut when looking at rust. Sometimes you have go bigger on the patch than you want to.

Roy

[justacoupe]

It has been a long time since I posted on this forum. A little over two years ago, a dear friend and my 356 "mentor & muse" passed away. Bill Hallack was a wonderful guy and the very best of friends. Everyone who knew him loved him. He was an unselfish and giving person, who helped many of us (without charge) in the West Michigan area with our 356 and VW projects.

Bill's passing took a toll on me, and my interest in my 356 project disappeared at the same time he left us. I just didn't have the same level of motivation. But, I have now finally crawled out of my "funk" and have decided to dedicate the restoration of our 356C coupe to Bill's memory and to my wife, Carol, who first purchased "Greenie" back in 1975.

So, I hope to post photos of my progress here. Here at a forum that accepts all who are interested in 356's (and even 356 replicas) without any bias or "charge" or membership qualification. Thank you, Justin!

Regards,

Bill

PS: A few of my favorite photos of Bill Hallack are attached. The last two photos are of Bill with the love of his life: his wife Linda.

[JTR70]

Hey Bill,

Very sorry to hear about your mentor/friend. I know exactly what it means to lose someone like you've described, a very tough time indeed.
I am glad to hear that you're slowly getting back on your project and will be looking forward to your updates!
Justin
BTW Thanks for the positive feedback on the site too!

[roy mawbey]

Bill,

Projects don't always get finished in the time you planned. Good idea to finish it. You know he would have been proud of you to see you driving it.

However they are never really finished always something to do on them like I found out today.

That's the hobby thing, always good to have a hobby keeps you from being under your wife's feet

Roy

[Phil Planck]

Welcome back Bill. I remember your whole gang from the Gull lake Other Coast event.

Phil Planck