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No, just haven't gotten to it. Is it viewable from the underside or does the parcel shelf panel need to be removed from the car interior? Also, I've got some time before I can start welding patch panels. To treat exterior body surface rust - sand with fine newspaper, wipe with lacquer thinner, treat with ospho and then etched primer?
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Been quiet because I've been practicing my welding and bead rolling. John Brooks helped me with recommendations of both purchases. He also encouraged me to build the large wheel for the bead roller (used EMT) and building a platform next to the feed area of the bead roller for the metal to rest on as I feed it through the roller.
The first photo below is from an interior side panel that I think I'm ready to tackle a patch panel for. I've read multiple methodologies about doing patch panels from creating a pattern to welding it in place. John Brooks says he's done a little bit of everything I mentioned. I've seen patterns out of masking tape, cardboard, shirt boxes, and posterboard. Then creating the new panel and how to cut out the old rusty metal (seen several different tools).
Curious as to what others have done with regard to patch panels - from making a pattern, bead rolling, shaping the metal, cutting out the rusty metal and then welding the new piece in place.Comment
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Take a look towards the bottom of this page: 1959 356A S/R coupe project chassis # 108625 - ABCGT Forum
Just used some heat and a hammer form to recreate those relief shapes.Justin RioComment
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Thanks Justin! MPComment
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That return to see how Justin did such similar work to what you show in your photo, will help you and you notice Justin used 20 gauge sheet which you can manipulate really well. With all those holes though you can see and you can be sure, there are many more just waiting to protrude. I wonder really if you woul;d be best to see if you could purchase just that area with a repro part and if the flange area's are reasonble modify that area to accept large patches from the repro part you buy? I looked at the photo you put on but what condition is the rear shock absorber mounting plate like under the rear fender? As you know thin metal that is rusting through is so hard to weld to on a run.
Really consider every avenue before you cut. Its not actually easy either to make templates when you have indentations to allow for too. You need two pairs of hands to hold and press into forms so its best possibly to produce the indentations first on a formed patch that matches what you see before any periphery cutting of th patch itself . Thats why the repro part could make it easier just get confirmation from Justin as my thoughts are only an opinion !!
Roy
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An example of an approach I'm looking at - instead of replacing this back seat side panel with one large patch, I might do it in 3 or 4 patches. It would be easier because I wouldn't have to be concerned with producing all 3 of the vertical indentations that would line up perfectly with the existing indentations. Instead I'd only be dealing with one vertical indentation at a time. More work with the amount of welding, but perhaps easier to make a patch panel addressing one vertical indentation at a time.Comment
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I see your point of view and the area will be covered anyway but it will not be easy splitting up those 3 indentations. I would think the cost of one repro panel and maybe cutting and modifying that might make it easier, in the long run. I had some years of experience only with normal old fashioned gas welding so maybe Justin would confirm your ideas are better! I have tried MIG and there was a great difference but 45 years ago I did not have that MIG option.
RoyComment
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