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That door well looks like the usual 356 rusty mess! There are a lot of overlapping panels in that area. If you would like to see how everything originally fit together I redid the whole area:
JP
JP
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jjgpierce@yahoo.com -
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Tom
If not too late I would post a query on tge earlt 911S forum regarding asbestos content.Comment
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Hello all,
I hope everyone is well based on the COVID-19 pandemic.
I have been busy since October 2019.- Shipped my 1966 911 to my daughter in Australia. Based on the MSDS information I provided my importer, the car sailed through the import inspection. Thanks to the posts on Justin's site for those that tried to help and the Early S Register as well.
- Visited my daughter in Australia when the fires were at their worst. Fortunately, the town she lives in was spared, but lots of smoke.
- Experienced the heavy rains that helped put out the fires. I heard that 1 billion animals perished in the fires.
- Flew back on March 2 to San Diego where we visited our son. This was before the social distancing. We went to restaurants, drank beer and visited all his friends. We were lucky.
- When we returned to RI, we self quarantined and remain isolated as I write this.
The greasy project was to remove the steering "gear" or box as I call it. All went well until I could not get it out after releasing it from the torsion bar.
Any idea on how to do this? The Porsche manual has a photo of the steering gear and says to remove it from the front.
The four studs and the arm lock themselves over the torsion bar.
Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance, TomComment
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Hi Tom , great to see you back and glad to hear that everything is okay.
Its been a while since I installed mine but if I remember correctly if you swing the pitman arm out hard this should give you just enough finagle room to wiggle it out free.
HTH JustinJustin RioComment
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Thanks Justin,
Got it off. There was a slight "hitch" while turning the arm all the way. When I pushed, gently mind you, past that hitch, that gave me enough room to get the steering gear off. Here is the page from the Porsche manual that shows the drop arm and attachment studs in line.
Here is the photo of both lined up as the manual describes..
Attached FilesLast edited by Red911; 05-13-2020, 12:58 AM.Comment
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Don't call me Mr. Clean! The steering box was caked with layers of solid gear oid. I cleaned that up thanks to Justin' help with moving the steering arm. The transmission was next on my list to get clean. I purchased a hand held steam cleaner with a nylon brush. Did not touch the major caked on gear oil. Brake fluid only lasts a few minutes for $5 a can and I want to save my money for the transmission rebuild, so I chose an old pint can of Turpentine and a plastic scraper. Slow progress, but much cleaner as you may be able to see below. Sometimes I use the steam cleaner to warm up the stubborn gear oil so the plastic scraper can take chunks off, but the Turpentine works in curved areas and in hard to get to corners, a dental pick is the hot setup. By the end of Memorial Day weekend, it should be 90% clean enough for the transmission rebuilder.
Trying to get used to uploading photos.
Last edited by Red911; 05-20-2020, 02:27 AM.Comment
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Finished cleaning most of the transmission bottom. Tomorrow, will put on clutch end and hopefully clean the balance of the transmission.
I realize this is not unique, but I am also working on my photo uploads.
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Rust, we all hate rust. My '64 SC coupe is about one half rusted away. I am nuts to try to save this 356, but I will prevail, given enough time.
I have tried many different rust products from rust converters to dips, to soaking to spraying the undercarriage of my '67 911, which I don't recommend as it worked, and removed the rust, but everything in the garage rusted because the sump pump ran for days at a time in a kiddie pool.
Well, time for a new test with POR-15 Metal Prep which I will continue to use as part of the three part POR-15 process, Eastwood's Fast Etch that Eastwood states will last for years on steel without rusting, 25% white vinegar and 75% water, and finally Dr. X rust remover.
Here is a starting photo of the driver's side and I tested the passenger side with these four products.
Pretty rust, eh? Let's move on to the passenger side and see how I put the products on the rear quarter panel. From left to right: Eastwood Fast Etch, 25% vinegar, Dr. X and POR-15 Metal Prep. The panel is wet with the products here.
Here the quarter panel is dry. Eastwood's Fast Etch (left side darkened) was applied a few weeks ago, and there is a skim covering of product that dried on the panel
Moving to the driver's side, I started with 25% vinegar due to low cost. Scrubbed for 1/2 hour with a red Scotch Brite pad and kept the panel wet.
Dr. X applied and dried.
On both sides, Dr. X performed better. However, I will continue to use POR-15 Metal Prep when I paint the interior, wheel wells and bottom as part of the three step process. However, I will not use POR-15 as I have in the past to remove rust. I will use vinegar, because I am cheap and then Dr. X. Since I am a long time away from paint, I will experiment with Eastwood's Fast Etch because of the long waiting time. More on this as I move forward.
Your comments and questions are welcome.
TomComment
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Hey Tom, That system seems to work nice for flash rust but
is it strong enough to dissolve heavy and advanced plaque type rust as pictured above?
A couple of hours in muriatic turns the trick for me. 11 bucks for two gallons at the local hardware store and away you go. I can clean a lot of parts before it weakens too much to be really effective; But then again there is the fumes which I think we spoke about before. Always the trade off.
Will you be media blasting this body eventually?
JustinJustin RioComment
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Hi Justin,
I have a lot of rust to get rid of, but I like to blast small parts then powder coat them, or use Caswell's plating. The larger parts I dip in Evaporust, not muratic acid due to the caustic nature, but both work on deep rust.
Now, I am cleaning off the tar from the fender wells and bottom, then I will try vinegar, Dr X or Eastwood's Fast Etch. Then, I may use a hand sandblaster for the rest, which I will try in a few weeks. As you know, I removed the steering gear, but the smaller distances between the front torsion bars and battery box, may force blasting. I need to reinforce the chassis before I transport it to a blaster. I do live in a congested area and neighbors may complain about blasting dust outside.
I have a dilemma here, to blast or not to blast.
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Hello all,
I need some help on my engine panel installation. These were the parts that I removed and what I purchased from Restoration Design a long time ago.
The first photo from left to right shows a small, what I believe to be factory spot welded thin steel band from front to rear. I removed that yesterday. The jagged edge is upward as that was the second engine tin install, mine is the third.
The third photo compares the removed parts (rusty) to the new RD parts). One of the questions concerns the RD narrow rectangle part. That seems to be a duplicate of the rear end part from the engine inside cover where the bumper is welded to on the outside. Do I need to install that rectangle part on the rear of the engine compartment before the two top panels are installed and the bottom panel?
Second question, how high is the tin installed. I probably will be close as I know where the previous tin was welded in due to the metal strip I removed.
The fourth photo shows the old parts leaning where it went before I removed it.
Thanks for your help, Tom
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Hi Tom,
The long rectangular piece is your final cross member and it has to be mounted in first.
Not only do the bumper mounts lay over top
but your upper closing all flange is a pinch seam all the way across so you can't have any of that new perimeter tin in your way. As for the correct height of that perimeter tin, let your old flange sections of it be your guide.
Hope this helped.
Justin
Justin RioComment
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Thanks Justin for your review of my problem.
I will not install the second rectangle end part that you show in the last photo. What confused me is the Previous Owner had installed two of them. The second one was used to mount the engine tin as a second row. You verified that one of the rectangles is just fine and I will proceed to put in the engine tin where it was cut out the first time. Thanks Tom
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Hello all,
I listened to what Justin said about half way up the page about surface rust and I spent the last four months welding in the engine compartment sheet metal and painted it with two coats of POR-15 and then rattle can spray painted the tacky POR-15 with two coats of Transtar primer.
I continued and did the rear seats after doing some patch panels in the driver's side bucket, all four inner wheel wells, the gas tank area in the front and primed the ourside of the front fenders.
Now, I am ready to do some serious rust removal and new panel replacement. As Ron Roland recommends, I am starting with the driver's side rocker area. I have watched with awe, Justin's replacement of the heater pipes and panels in the rear of the outer/inner longitudinal, as mine is shot. I have these parts:
Outer longitudinal, rocker panel, heater muffler and the two brackets and the inner RD inner longitudinal replacement panels to hold the two floor sections in place as my floors are shot too.
My questions are:
1. I can fix most of the rust as I have experience with that, so don't turn away. However, I am lost with the rear part of the metal pipes and putting them through the chassis. Can I buy the heating system pipes and put them in the rear of the open longitudinal area?
2. Can I just delete the heating system? After all, we all are driving in sunny days and not the type of Alpine weather this Italian 356 SC drove in. That would simplify my project.
In other words: HELP
Thanks TomComment
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Hi Tom,
Glad you found some of my old build shots useful. Man, this chassis is very rusty and its structural integrity is very much compromised across the thresholds. The parts you have already are very much only half of the picture. You really need to replace that entire inner corner piece around the rear torsion housing. Restoration Design as you probably know offers that entire unit. If it was mine Id replace the entire run on up to the inside of the back seat tray as I am sure its just as rusty.
This lap joint really tells the story about how advanced the rot is. You will end up cutting out most of this out anyway so why not go the extra mile and put in the entire new panel? It will be much cleaner and stronger than a series of patches. The heater tube at the other end terminates on the other side of that closing floor; your going to be rebuilding that area anyway so I would put a new tube in. Unless this is going to be highly modified custom car I would recommend strongly rebuilding it factory correct especially down in the bowls of this chassis. If you don't its going to come back and bite you hard when the day comes to cash out. I would fabricate or buy that entire threshold run too as the rot runs up very high and is badly pitted around the attachment points. The rocker panel needs to be removed so you have a clean shot at the entire area. Before you go any further though you need to fabricate a sub-frame/ jig to keep this thing square and supported. The roof is not enough especially considering how much deeper you're going to have cut. Your rotisserie attachment points are putting considerable leverage on this thing so I would get it shored up as soon as.
JustinLast edited by JTR70; 10-29-2020, 08:23 PM.Justin RioComment
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I agree with Justin. You have some serious structural issues.Comment
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