electric fuel pump

[356JAGER]

I believe it was Tom Farnum on the R site that came up with this option, the one I've used for several years now. He mounted it more remotely at the rear of the engine compartment. Can be had from most boating outlets and they're inexpensive. I have always carried a spare, but still have yet to find a need to replace it. Authenticity buffs, beware...
Cheers,
Joel

[badsix]

I believe it was Tom Farnum on the R site that came up with this option, the one I've used for several years now. He mounted it more remotely at the rear of the engine compartment. Can be had from most boating outlets and they're inexpensive. I have always carried a spare, but still have yet to find a need to replace it. Authenticity buffs, beware...
Cheers,
Joel

Joel, how ingenious. sometimes its the simplest things that work the best. I will have to admit I did chuckle a little when I first looked at the picture.
thanks Jay D.

[JTR70]

[quote="AMP" post=27618]

Example: my wife and I moved into a new house and all the walls were off white. Next thing I know painters are there and all the new walls, ceilings etc. are getting painted. I said "what's wrong with the walls the way they are". She looked at me like i had 2 heads and says " why don't you go work on your car"

Priceless! I think everyone us terminal gearheads can relate to that story.
Justin

[356JAGER]

My wife would have said, ' when you get done with the painting you can go work on your car '...
Cheers,
Joel

[badsix]

I have a C and mounted two pumps on the V brace under the fuel tank. I used a single pole double throw switch mounted in the sunroof switch location to select either one or the other pump. Only one runs at a time and the other is a spare. Used two check valves to prevent pumping back thru the unused pump. The pumps are mounted to a stainless bracket isolated from the car by two rubber mounts.

I used the pierburg 12V pumps. They may be dual voltage and I think they have 6V versions. Some have had failures with those pumps. They need a return or bypass line to live as is stated in the paper that comes with the pump and on their web site. I added a bypass regulated by a small orfice that still provides some pressure and the need for a regulator. An equally good or maybe better solution might be a better regulator with a return line provision. But I put my bypass at the pumps so I would not have to run a second line from the rear of the car back to the tank.

The filter is mounted to the underside of the body near the left rear axle. The regulator is in the engine compartment on the firewall.

I made up stainless steel fuel lines to replace all the original lines. 8mm (I think?) thin wall stainless tubing available from McMaster Carr on line.

Ashley, I see in the picture that your using an alternator. what does one do for a volt meter, can the stock gauge be made to work or do you need to install an aftermarket volt meter.
thanks Jay D.

[AMP]

Jay, I bought one of the Hollywood Speedometer quad ga that included a volt meter. I still have the original ga because the quad, as I learned, is a new part and not a mod done to an original ga.
That picture was just as the engine went in for the first time because the wires to the alternator are not cut to the final length.

[bbspdstr]

Interesting approaches presented here from basic to deluxe.

Much of the following will be redundant, but here is what I have been doing for many customers for many years, since driving miles have been declining and all 356s and most drivers are getting older and the cars sit longer than they usually did.

I add an electric pump that allows pull-through of fuel inline, usually under the right floor board, usually a hard mount but occasionally on insulating blocks.

It's inline-fused, so a hot source can be anywhere and it's switched with a momentary version so it cannot be left 'on'... placed discreetly under the dash, usually on the steering brace.

It is a bowl filling or emergency back-up pump only. For the initial filling after a long evaporation down-time, just hold the switch to push fuel through the stock mechanical version until the sound of the pump quiets or about the count of 20.

No pressure regulators to keep the carb inlet pressure to 1.9 atu, no fuss as long as the stock Peirburg is functional. If that craps out, the tickling of the electric will get ya home. No slower cranking and waiting with a 6v battery being taxed, no cylinders 1 & 2 trying to run until 3 & 4 get their share of fuel....

The electric pump allows fuel to be pulled through it and the mechanical pump allows fuel to be pushed through it and are very happy together.

Of course the new owner of my Speedster wanted a NEW OEM pump on the engine in that car. It was almost a grand (!) so if cost is a factor, a low pressure electric pump may be a full-time solution, just be sure not to overwhelm the needle-and-seats of the carbs to create a forced overflow.

My greater concern is to avoid cold starts with no oil cushioning the bearings after typical sitting or storage. I followed small aircraft engine technology and designed a pre-oiler system for my engine. It's rather intricate...OK, "busy" with a one-way check valve, pick-up from the sump to the off-engine pump and full-flow in the rear left fender, etc, but I just love to plumb with Aeroquip! It's also on a pressure switch so if the oil pressure goes down, it kicks in and a bright warning light gets your attention so you can look for a place to land safely.....oh, I mean "pull over."

On a 57-year-old simple little car, some 'tinkering' keeps things interesting.




-Bruce

[AMP]

Bruce, what pump did you use?
Where does the hose running forward under the engine go?
Thanks

[bbspdstr]

Damn, I'm home and I forget the two names. Sorry. One I tried was a Varna, I believe (I'll look it up in my file) and the other from an aircraft supply outfit in SoCal. The bigger version is shown, as that's for back-up generators and heavier. The other is in a kit made to retro fit small aircraft engines and much lighter.

The line you mention is from the sump drain of the engine case. That's the electric oil pump's main supply. It (the close 90* metric/AN fitting) will be protected by the same shield I made to protect my much deeper sump extension on the much lower race car.

-Bruce

[Type550]

If anyone is using autopulse fuel pumps like in the spyders, I got a number of sets of manifolds and screws made up which are exact replicas and fully functional. I still have a few sets left

[Carrera_The_Kid]

Hi Andrew,

I could use some. What's your asking price?

best,

Joris

[bbspdstr]

Ashley,
This is the aircraft kit's diagram and I didn't dig out the pump from that acquisition yet.

The pictured pump in my previous posting is a Varna EP-4.

I'm sorry to intrude on a fuel pump thread. I just consider oil in the bearings as important (or more so) as filling the carb bowls with fuel after sitting for long periods of time between starts.

Back to work,

-Bruce

[Type550]

Hi Joris,

1 x pair of manifolds plus the correct 8 screws @ US$330.00
Registered parcel to USA @ US$35.00

Email me at spyder@type550.0com if you are interested

thanks Andrew