Thanks just the same but actually I was officially done with welding when I removed the body from the rotisserie about a year ago. This welding task was of course extra unnecessary work due to my anger. Justin
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58367 The $75 Junkyard Carrera coupe restoration
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No worries Trevor, this build thread is so long and drawn out that I even forget where I've been.
For that split-second when I lost it Jeff, counting to ten wasn't going to settle me down. Besides I knew the repair was failure before hand, this was just my way of capping it so I'd be forced to install the new fender.
2/13/14
Block sanding and swatches continue. Its almost there just few slight waves in the reflection I need out but I am getting close.
Thanks again guys!
JustinJustin Rio
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3/5/14
Continuing to slog through my 1 hour per day block sanding sessions. This side is getting very close and have now moved forward toward the front of the door to fender transition.
I am trying not to let my OCD get the best of me mark but I have two trouble spots that I have to level out before I can be satisfied. As the reflection moves down the body there is still a slight wave in the rear corner just behind the door I tell you this area is a bitch to get any cooperation with. Also one more gentle rolling wave as the front fender transitions to the door. Both will need a swatch of putty; I know Some guys may cringe at the thought of more filler but its thin and its the only way you get these old car bodies to be perfect down the sides. The end is in sight though. Thanks for stopping by! JustinJustin Rio
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Justin,
Its looking great. I have a question:- It looks to me any filler needed is as you say a minimum wipe over. Tell me would a high build primer spray not work for this. A few coats in the area's concerned or, long term would a swatch of filler under the top coat be better than a higher thickness of paint overall?
Either way your finish so far looks fantastic to me.
Roy
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Filler is filler whether it be lead, putty or high build primer. There is absolutely nothing wrong with using it! Do not fret about it. I don't know why people freak out about using filler when the factory used tons of it,(lead).
Justin, it's looking awesome. I'm enjoying the story of your car.Mic
1959A coupe
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Thanks Roy! There are a couple of reasons why I'm using plastic filler over high build primer: I have more control and can gauge exactly where I need it and how thick as I apply it. Also Turn around time is faster; once applied I am block sanding within 15 minutes versus waiting 1-2+ hours (depending on temp and thickness)for the primer to cure. I can get much further up the road truing the surface during my allotted hour of work using plastic filler.
Mic is exactly correct a filler, is a filler, is a filler... just name your poison. A guy can stick his chest out at a car show and say "there no bondo on this car!" However in reality he has only traded the use of bondo with another filler be it lead or high build primer. Bondo gets a bad wrap because its so commonly abused but in reality it truly is a legitimate finishing product if used correctly. Mic thank you for posting that! It is always nice to read that this thread is of some interest! Thanks again you guys!
JustinJustin Rio
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3/14/14
More fine tuning on the reflection down the side of the body.
This side is getting closer but as the reflection moves down the body I have figured out that the edge of the front fender "peaks" just a little too high creating a wave which gives the illusion that mid-sections of both the door and front fender are low.
After some careful study I marked the area of the fender that needs to be messaged down.
Messaging it here. At this stage we are talking thousands of an inch to correct this so super light taps and constant checking as it goes is the procedure. Once I get this edge tapped down I'll block sand the area and see what needs re-messaging next. All this fine detail stuff sure eats up the time! No choice, If I left it, it would always bug the shit out me! Thanks for stopping by! JustinJustin Rio
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Thanks Roy, Still photos don't tell the whole story. What I am after is the moving reflection across the body; as your gaze moves down the body I am concerned with the slight ripples as the lighted reflection run across the panels. A still photo of course cannot relay those short comings.
Thanks again Roy, I'll try not to hit it too hard!
3/18/14
Pecking and blocking continues...
These "peaked" high spots of steel are making themselves known as long boarding continues. This went in series of blocking, to tapping the high spots, back to blocking, then more tapping as needed. An hour easily spent on just this area alone..
Going in the right direction with the filler getting thinner and the reflection becoming more uniform. At this point I'm thinking I may not be able to chases all the irregularities out completely (without major work) but they will be very close. I'll have to wait and see how it finishes out. Thanks for looking! JustinJustin Rio
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Thanks a lot Gordon! I'm really beginning to split hairs at this point I know and the things I am concerning myself with would not be picked up by the public at large however I'll have to walk by it on almost a daily basis after final paint and I will see ALL my short comings and mistakes. I'm just trying to minimize them so I don't drive my self crazy after its painted.
3/20/14
Next round of primer and tracer coat.
After applying this round I was relieved to see that waves are settling down and are becoming more subtle and gently rolling. I can live with that.
I have taken that peaked fender to door transition as far down as I can. I blocked down to a good portion of steel skin on the door so there is no going further downward with this area. beside the door skin is really getting straight and I don't want to ruin its line by chasing the leading edge down further. My last troubled area is slight low spot/wave just after the leading edge of the fender and before the wheel well opening, right smack where the emblem would mount. I'll be adding a venier of filler to chase this one out. Again we are talking thousands of inch in thickness. You can't feel it with your hand but its enough to change the reflection as it moves down the fender.
The door to quarter panel transition is getting real close and am just about done chasing it. This whole side is finally getting to point that I can deal with; not without a fight though. Another long board session tomorrow. Thanks for stopping by! JustinJustin Rio
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It looks amazing to me. Remember there is a fine line between perfection and OCD, I think you are almost there . Your work looks perfect to my computer eye, but I completely understand the idea of being happy every time you walk by. I am sure you will be ecstatic with this car. Who will do the paint?Mark Erbesfield
57 356A
65 911
68 912
73 911S
66 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ45LV
79 450SL Dad's old car
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Thanks a lot Mark!! You're so right, I will be very ecstatic once the paint and bodywork phase of this build is finally behind me. My friend here in town uses a dealership autobody repair shop to squirt his cars with really nice results. He brings them in after hours preps and masks everything personally and picks the painted shell up the following morning. I'll bring the body in prepped and masked with my supplied paint and I can have it shot for right around 500.00 bucks wil Cross that bridge soon Thanks again! Justin
3/21/14
Swatched and block sanded that low area that I described earlier. Reflection in the water coated surface tells me I am just about there. The best news for my sanity is that the rest of this side is all but finished. I am strictly down to a few more coats of paint and long boarding to take it in the rest of the way.
Another coat of primer to cure overnight before I left. Will sand and shoot another tracer on tomorrow and see if I'm done or not. Thanks again Mark! JustinJustin Rio
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