Canuck 1960B T5 Coupe Resto

[Scott B]

Sage advice from the group as always.

Rather than a full inner panel removal I think I will tackle this in pieces and "patches" where it is needed. Will focus on rear inner engine bay (because this is currently in my head) then leave this and the inner panel and push on with outer longitudnals, and front section etc





to firm up the chassis box all around.

[Scott B]

So I am going to stich in the outer longitudinal and the inner longitudinal. I believe the approach is drilled holes in the inner longitudinal with plug welds onto the outer longitudinal. But, down the road I will need to slide in the sill plate which gets welded to the combined inner and outer sandwhich edges with a seam weld about an inch long.

To weld the sill plate the books show that the sill is welded with a weld seam stitching all three pieces together.

Would there be any benefit in welding the three together with plug welds?

I would alternate every other hole. Inner/outer plug welded first hole then drill a hole through both the inner and outer and plug weld all to the sill plate. Alternating this pattern every other hole.

For now I would only weld every other hole with the inner and outer together. I would pre-drill the alternating holes (every other hole) through both the inner and outer so down the road when I am ready to insert the sill ledge can plug weld the three together.

or is it best - as per the original - plug weld the inner and outer all together -e very hole and later tuck in the sill weld along the edge of the three pieces together.

[badsix]

I did a sill plate on mine not because of rust but damage. I got everything fitted, then puled the sill plate and drilled the inner and outer longitudinal with a 3/8 drill. then cleaned the area deburing all the holes for a good fit. clamped it all together and weld.
Jay D.

[JTR70]

As far a improving structural integrity I don't think you're going to gain a lot by going that route Scott. The edge of sill plate was fused at the edge through the entire 15 year production run so through all those years of racing development it was never deemed necessary to secure it further. You're approach is certainly stealthy enough where it would never be detected but in the unfortunate event that a rocker gets crunched you've made the job of removal and repairing that area a lot more difficult than it needs to be. BUT, your car, your choice.
Justin

[Scott B]

Got the inner back panel roughly fitted but before I commit need to button up the longitudinal and burn in the rear closing panel on the longitudinal.

The inner longitudinal is complete and stuck in a used 914 inner muffler tube. These were very inexpensive about $30. They had to be trimmed to length to fit and the some seam sealer around the two ends but they will do the trick. Getting the outer longitudinal to wrap around nice and snug took a few clamps and straps and a couple of tap screws. Outer longitudinal is tacked in. Will work on drivers side next and then rotate the rotisserie for better access to do the "hundreds" of welds on the underside of the flange edge.

[JTR70]

Looking good Scott! Man, you've really got the front of that car stripped to basics You're really starting from scratch up there.

Keep up the great progress!
Justin

[Scott B]

Outer longitudinals welded in. Inner rear panel tested fitted. A lot easier to weld and fit the bottom of the longitudinals when it is on a rotisorie.

[Scott B]

Need to start to lay in the rear inner back panel this will require replacement of the door post and most of the B pillar. My shop buddy shaped two pieces of metal to later welded together to for the upper part of the B pillar

[Scott B]

question - I have welded in the outer longitudinal but am uncertain as to how to finish off the bottom flange near the rear of the longitudinal where it meets up the frame. Any shots or suggestions would be appreciated.

[John Pierce]

Hi Scott,

I went through the same process that you're going through now. Take a look at my blog starting here:

http://www.abcgt.com/forum/14-356-Restoration-Projects/14008-63-356B-T-6-Rebuild.html?limit=6&start=588

John

[Scott B]

Thanks John ya, deja vu - your project looks like my twin. Still not certain as to how to finish the flange on the underside of the outer longitudinal - didn't show up in your pics.

With the longitudinals in, its time to focus on the front passenger speaker box area. It is so nice with most of the rust cut out now to go back and grab the pieces I had formed when I was cutting out the bad metal to now finally put them in. Easy to make good progress with parts already shaped and fitted. Welded in all the metal around the passenger side speaker box and tentatively test fit the hinges with the positioning jigs I had made months ago when I had to cut the lower hinges out. Thank god for pics of this from months ago - figuring out the right jig (from a bunch of them I have in a box) and the right posi













tion was a challenge without photos.

[John Pierce]

Scott,

That's looking really good. Those panels fit nicely.

Here are some pix of how I finished the bottom rear where the inner and outer longitudinals mate up with the other panels. I spent a lot of time perusing blurry pictures from other's builds to try to get it correct. If not,...oh well I hope they can help you. Let me know if you need any more.

John

[bbspdstr]

An original for reference. Difficult to get a good shot on a lift but it's the right rear. The longitudinal vertical blade is edge-welded down on an angle. I have seen many different solutions to this blending of panels and seams, so I would surmize that there is no one way, so you have some latitude.

Hope this helps some, but John's rendition is easier to see!
Bruce

[Scott B]

John and Bruce, thanks for the intel. Very helpful. John i like the holes and plugs in the outer longitudinal. Curious about the plugs, thought the idea was to keep them open so air flowing over the holes draws out moisture. However I was considering the same but with plugs and every year or so shoot it full of rustproofing.

[John Pierce]

The holes are a Karmann thing. Tom Perazzo and I have lots of info on them if you're interested.....I think though that we beat that topic dead

I primered and top coated all the longitudinal and other cavity inside panels before welding everything up. The plugs in the holes are just to keep all the welding and grinding junk from falling back in during the rest of my construction.....which I still have lots to do. My job has recently become exponentially busier so I've had no time to work on the coupe.

JP