Canuck 1960B T5 Coupe Resto

[Scott B]

Any suggestions on how to keep the underneath tidy when I start the messy work of body work and sanding?

[JTR70]

I had to paint the underside of my car in manageable sections and well ahead of the final paint job. To protect what was finished against overspray and all the rest of what was to come I came up with applying a venire of Vaseline as a barrier. You can see the overspray and dust accumulating on the floor pan here but it was as easy as wiping with a rag to take it all away when the time came. Another advantage is that it was one time and done. No more remasking for the duration. I just had to be careful not to touch it as work progressed.
The engine compartment stayed coated in it for almost 6 years but when it was finally time for removal it was as easy as could be. Since your car is undercoated it might be a little tougher to apply and remove but this might give you an idea or two.

Justin

[Scott B]

With the textured undercoating I think the Vaseline would be problematic. I’m thinking maybe taping plastic underneath. It’s Tricky figuring out the order of putting these cars together particularly when this is taking months and years.

[JTR70]

I would agree with that. I have no doubts you'll figure it out.

[Scott B]

Starting to install steering box, sway bar and front suspension so I can make the car a “roller� to begin body work.

[JTR70]

It all looks fantastic and I like the attention to detail. I also like the tone of semi-gloss that you've used on the parts. Not too flat and not too shiny; looks correct. Good luck with the body work phase.

[roy mawbey]

All that preparation you did Scott has worked well that area looks really good.

Roy

[Scott B]

Thanks Roy. It’s crazy how much work is required. I have so much admiration for everyone on this forum that continues to press forward on these projects.

realized the pedal and foot board SS need to b welded in.

[Scott B]

Few steps forward and a few steps backward. Starting on body prep now beginning with the doors. After taking a good look I was not as happy with the leading I did in the joint originally. I was not a hundred percent sure the lead had solid adhesion to the door skin. So…. I ground out much of the lead then media blasted the doors again - just as well as there was some evidence of rust in the door metal scratches that would not sand out. I then filled the seams with kitty hair resin body filler. Three applications with grinding between each session got me 90 percent there with the doors. I then recoated with 2 part epoxy. Doors are back on with some final latch adjustments still needed.

At least now I am far more confident the filler has strong chemical adhesion to the remaining lead and to the door skin. Once the doors are fitted I will roll the car outside and media blast the front again and in the seams checking for any pin holes and removing all debris and then fill with the kitty hair resin to get close to the shape.

[JTR70]

Looks good Scott, I'll bet your glad you caught that before you had too much time invested into the bodywork.

[Scott B]

[JTR70]

Looks really promising Scott. Now your onto the next level, repairing these sections and panels as an individual is hard enough now it looks like your well on your way into making all these surfaces fit and transition off of one another to create a smooth uniform body profile. This is most challenging part, at least to me. Keep up the great work! Justin

[roy mawbey]

Oh so well done on that door Scott. That leading will be fine I reckon and so minimal compared to mine when I did the same thing. I must say all the leading I did has lasted well for the past 30 years or so to me its the best way and I am pleased I got to find out actually how best to do it.
Roy

[Scott B]

Well it’s on to the body work when the humidity is at a reasonable percent. With wheels on the body it’s really handy to roll it outside for body work to let the dust blow away outside. It’s been a while since I welded on the body panels so each time I do a section i need to media blast again followed by some cleaner. Tackled the rear first using fine kitty hair filler to tackle the seams and some of the lows to get close to the shape without a lot of shaping then sealed all the next day with epoxy to prevent any flashing on the bare metal. Happy with first rough shaping. The real work will come with finer filling and blocking.

To prevent media blasting partials and dust getting in the car and cut and taped in clear heavy gauge plastic for the rear engine area and windows.

[JTR70]

Let the real fun begin! Looks like a plexy-glass decklid....

[Scott B]

Real fun indeed. Media blasted the front and filled in some lows to get basic shape and the epoxy coated. Started to do more filling and blocking. I swear 95 percent of what goes on gets sanded off again. Working on driver side fender and door.

[Scott B]

Used some thin flexiable plexiglass/plastic for windows and rear hood to keep media blast and worst of sanding dust. With epoxy on started smoothing out and laying in thin amounts of filler and using longer boards to get it smoother. Working on drivers side first.

[JTR70]

Looks like a great start. The sides of these cars are really tough to get straight and uniform as a whole, front to back. The wire fender lips don't offer a lot of rigidity like a later 911 pressed lip opening does. Then there is that graceful egg shaped body contour to contend with...Time and patience. Keep up the great progress Scott.

[roy mawbey]

Scott,

Its going to look great and that front door gap looks really good, Well done great effort.

Roy

[Scott B]

Continue to refine the shape and gaps. Tricky shaping for rear, cowl area and fender transition. Managed to get it all covered in epoxy once I was getting close to the shape at 80 grit and starting to transition to filler/glazing. Now working on the front hood integration. Was not a lot fun shooting primer at a few degrees over freezing. I just could not leave any bare metal for too long.

[JTR70]

Its coming along nicely Scott. I have great appreciation for all of your efforts. That final photo speaks volumes as to all the time and effort involved long boarding all those separate applications of filler in pursuit of a uniform surface. Absolutely, these little cars are tough to get right. Keep up the great work there.

Justin

[roy mawbey]

I agree with you Justin the work Scott is doing is looking so good. Not easy working in low temps either. I remember 45 years ago and freezing conditions and going out to my then separate freezing cold garage. Even turning on a small heater it made little difference. Those gaps of yours Scott do make me a little green.

Roy