Canuck 1960B T5 Coupe Resto

[Scott B]

Rain gutter welded in nose is now in and complete. Will now have to address the gaps now between hood and nose. Considering trying to lead the gaps. Not sure

[Scott B]

Tried some welding in a section to close the gap. Working on 4mm bare metal is this appropriate? Welding the gap and building up is not a lot of fun. A before and after picture

[JTR70]

Great effort of reducing the filler just a little bit more. A raw gap of 4mm is just fine. You're looking for 3mm +or - when its all over. Front clip really turned out nice!

[Scott B]

Thanks Justin. Doors back on. Nice to have all major pieces on the front on and in place. Now to start working on closing the gaps on doors and hood.

[roy mawbey]

Another step forward Scott!
Roy

[Scott B]

A question for the members. Warmed up the headlight opening and was able to confirm I can fit the buckets in.
On the bucket there are two nubs sticking out which does not make for a clean lip for the ledge ring. Why are they there should they be removed?

[JTR70]

Hey Scott, Yes you'll need to beat those features out as they will not only limit your adjustment against the skin but they will also interfere with the eventual rubber seal ring. I think those where for an early 911 application

[Scott B]

Justin. Thank you very much for the confirmation.

[Scott B]

Bottom rear corner of the door was sitting to deep and needed to come out a bit so it would be flush with the rocker. Had to slice and cut back a perfectly good rebuilt door to pull out the boot on corner door panel with body and rocker

[JTR70]

Yep, that's necessary adjustment with these doors as most seem to want to tuck in too quick at this lower corner. I'll be doing that exact same thing to a coupe door I rebuilt a while back. Seemed fine at the time but rolls in too tight now. Nice work.

[Phil Planck]

Did you fill that wide gap wirh weld? Or maybe it closed up some with final fit?

[Scott B]

A combination of holding a piece of copper behind the gap for most of the slit and where it was a little large I clamped a small piece of metal behind and simply welded on top over the gap. Wasn’t worried about the thin metal gap piece on the inside of the door bottom that won’t be seen. I Was more worried about a rough surface of weld bumps on the inside where the bottom clamp to hold the frame may rest in the future.

[roy mawbey]

Nice neat job!
Roy

[Scott B]

More welding along gaps that are too wide. A PITA but happy that I have solid metal on all edges that will only need a thin surface coat down the road on the drivers side door

[Scott B]

Trying to fit the door latch in position. Should the latch be this tight? It Needed some tapping with a hammer to get it on. See bottom pic would not slide on without tapping on extremely snug. When I closed the door with the latch on I was able to see the screws holes from under the fender and mark position of the attaching plate and screwed on the latch the door will close and latch tight but takes some force

[JTR70]

Its a repop receiver so you might want to shave a little off the top for some needed clearance. Also depending on the angle and position of the lock posts you're normally lucky to get even half of that flipper's width to contact into the receiver so clearance issues will be slightly less of a problem versus how you have it mocked up like a glove on the end of the door there.

[Scott B]

Thanks Justin. On the left side I had to add four shims😩😩 to get solid width for the flipper. Will sand and shave a little off the top and see if that improves.

An anyone tell me the average distance/measurement from the inside door to the outer edge of the lip for the channel where the rubber sits?

[Scott B]

Had to modify the buckets to get the bulge out. Made a jig - a little heat - and a little tapping - all good.

[Scott B]

Starting to fit the buckets. Again some heat and some taping on the inner ledge got the buckets in - with a wooden block and a bit of persuasion and a mallet. Took a bit of force to start but got easier the closer it got. As this is more of an elliptical shape it found its natural home. Using a 3mm gauge as Justin suggested to ensure proper lip clearance. Will check the seal tomorrow along with the rim.