The Resurrection of Foam Car - 63 T6B

[roy mawbey]

Phil,

You are doing so well on that job.! That hood work is not easy from a handling point of view, The last time I had mine off was around 30 years ago when I tried to improve slightly the height of the hood relative to the fender on one side. Still using the original two datum holes for the hood I ended up applying a slight downward torque by hand to the top pf the lid holding it there and tightening the bolts. It worked for me and so far not caused a problem. Of course my rubber seal has compressed a lot more in 30 years and made the closure even a little better. I had no idea then of procedures Justin has advised us of but not sure I would ever have been brave enough to use the slitting saw etc.

Well done again on your effort.

Roy

[Phil Planck]

Thanks guys. Shot some primer on the hood as it finally has warmed up into the 70s up here and humidity is going up. Even with my shop dehumidifier I got some flash rust spots in a few places. Son came up last week for me to take dent out of his 12 ga. truck bumper after backing into a tree. Had to use 20 ton shop press to slowly work it out plus some hard whacks with my heavy duty planisher. Door was open quite a bit then, Anyway, the primer gives a better picture of the gap situation. Pretty happy with nose and sides, but top is not where I like it. A little tight in the middle, although I can get my 4mm stick in at and angle but not vertically. Passenger corner is leaded and gap too big. So, hood will be off soon to work on that area. Cowl is slightly high in middle so either hood has to go down, or I can open gap to 4mm vertical and maybe cowl will go up like Justin's.

[JTR70]

Pictures never tell the entire story but from what I can see it looks like a great start!

[Phil Planck]

Your right Justin, especially flat primer. I don't plan to go much further until all body gaps are finished. Then the block sanding on whole car. I need to get dash wire harness finished and installed and finish e brakes so I can tighten rear axle nuts and fill transaxle.

Tried installing windshield trim with no luck. Did a search on R forum and good tip to use Harbor Freight soft jaw clamps. Picked up 2 and that did the trick:

[Phil Planck]

Getting the windshield trim to lay flat in the corners was a chore, but everything is now flush:

Dont know if this is the original, but assume pretty old as made in W. Germany:

To wrap up the front of the car heat wise, I needed to re_braze the drain tubes to the gutter. Had to break those free to remove the nose. Tubes are lined up with hole:


And brazed back together:

Now I can finish undercoating the inside of the nose and headlight buckets.

[JTR70]

Love the reproduction effort using brass as originally.

[roy mawbey]

Phil, I believe my Sigla windscreen on my A to be original. No advice on any receipts from the early 60's to state otherwise. The Sigla ident markings on my car are on the top left hand side of the screen. The lid looks good Phil.

Roy

[Phil Planck]

Roy
Thanks for the Sigla info. Will report location on my windshield.
Lower left(USA driver side)

[Phil Planck]

Rolled out of shop for 1st time in 16 years to strip paint off roof

[JTR70]

A nice milestone Phil, Congratulations!

[Phil Planck]

Got busy with other projects for a while. Installed steering wheel and coupler to make it easier to move around. Finally finished up e brakes, as Jack Staggs pointed out importance of spreader bar having a little play so cylinders can fully retract. As my lining is 1mmm too thick I had to file open the slots in the shoes to allow spreader bar play. With yhat done I could finally torque down axle nuts with Ab's (RIP)enhanced TorqueMeister.


Time to hook up e brake cables. New front cable and old remainder:



Hooking up the cable block and getting the cover on for spring was a real chore. Could not get cover to fully close, so temporarily hooked spring on just one flange. Will try a c clamp to close cover. But, looks like e brakes work.

[Phil Planck]

No pics but clutch cable installed and bowdin tube adjusted.
Now working on brake fluid reservoir for dual m/c. Did not like one from Zims as hoses have to route into wheel opening and thru the tie rod hole. Think I will go with the 911 reservoir added to this C. Original rrservoir left in place for some reason.

[roy mawbey]

Its all coming along Phil, step by step !

Roy

[Phil Planck]

Thanks Roy. Not getting as much done lately. Too many hobbies and old cars.

[Phil Planck]

Decided to use 912/911 brake fluid reservoir. Made a bracket, drilled 2 holes and installed grommets. Note that the 911 cap is not vented as there is a vent on the left side of reservoir in pic. I am sealing this and using a vented cap from a latter 911 that has the diaphragm to keep it sealed.

[JTR70]

Clean and simple; I like it Phil.

[Phil Planck]

Before I hook up the reservoir lines I need to replace the tar paper. Original is all one piece and pretty flimsy to handle. Removed air inlet which needs refurbishing anyway and started making template.

[JTR70]

What are you making your replacement sound deadener from?

[Phil Planck]

Roofing paper glued to Dynamat

[tperazzo]

Brilliant Phil, I'm right behind you on this stuff as always.