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AUSTRALIAN DELIVERED 56 COUPE

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  • AUSTRALIAN DELIVERED 56 COUPE

    I own and operate a small restoration shop in Australia. We focus on body and paint restoration of classic cars. We have also been known to do the occasional custom and a little accident repair (but try to keep that to classic cars). Here is a "skins off" resto of a Aussie delivered 56 coupe. I have recently been told this is one of 4 coupes delivered to Australia in 56. (please correct me if I am wrong).

    Anyway, this is how we do it.

    This is how the car was purchased by my client. It was purchased with the intention of restoring as soon as I could fit it in. The car presented fairly well, some minor front accident damage to the front clip, Right door. It had some fibreglass rust repairs to the original floors, longs,battery box etc. It has probably been restored a couple of times and suffered a typical late eighties red paint job (they all had to be red in the eighties right Justin!) Probably done in a regular smash repair shop (body shop) where it seems it was one of those cars that sat in the corner for years. Judging by the way it was reassembled it was probably thrown together at the last minute using all sorts of mix matched bolts from Australian ford and gm cars.

    It is a complete numbers matching car and a 56 super AUD delivered car so pretty rare. originally Lago green met.

    We decided to purchase a car to restore rather than purchasing a restored car. At the time of purchase most restored A coupes were running at least $100k. Sadly most of these high dollar cars were "Mudflaps" (Shiny on top and Sh%# underneath).

    We advertised Australia wide and looked at quite a few cars finally purchasing the 56

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    It was pretty clear from the beginning that the skins had to be removed to allow full access to the inner structure and the inner rust repairs

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    Ready to go to Media blasting

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  • #2
    Jason, Thank you for sharing this restoration! I am in shock about all the outer panels that were removed. This looked like a solid car from the first photo. Can't be crashed and rusty the chassis looks too nice. Have you just removed them for access? looking forward to seeing this car progress!!! Thanks again! Justin

    BTW: Interesting anti-kink hood hinge extensions he's put on there...
    Justin Rio

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    • #3
      [attachment:4]IMG_0173.JPG[/attachment]

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      • #4
        Jason,

        which state are you in?

        Andrew
        Driving the road to discovery - www.type550.com

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        • #5
          Jason,
          Like Justin I am surprised at your bravery at taking all the front and side panels off the car. I realise photo's can often tell lies but actually the car looked so nice before you started. Was it really full of plastic filler etc? I know top notch restorations do go along this route but its an expensive road to go down especially from the time point of view.
          Again, if the restored car has to be perfect, then I guess it needs to be made almost new again and Justin really knows all about that with his car. From the photos and story of his, I am amazed at what he has managed. Is this your intention for the car to be 100%
          correct?

          I really look forward to seeing how you get on with the 'A' its basis looks in good condition.

          Finally, for Justin really, is it only me? that can only read maybe 80% of each line of text. The rest is cut off in the box. The box I cannot enlarge or open up. The photos also are cut off in size on the r/h side. I click 'shrink' which seems to improve it but how can I make the thread message 'full screen' in order to actually read the full text?

          Roy

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          • #6
            It would seem a text without photos is fine.I can read my text above after clicking 'shrink' before sending. Should the photo width therefore be reduced somehow?
            I can easily reduce pixle size by shrinking but its the photo width that seems to be the controlling factor?

            roy

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            • #7
              Andrew,

              I am in Canberra.

              Justin,Roy,

              Yes it is a big job doing this way. Realistically many 356s should be done this way to be done properly. Most are not because it is very time consuming and expensive (As my client has found out).

              For this car in particular we had to go this way as will be shown in future.

              When the car was purchased and when it arrived at my shop as a bare shell it did look quite sound. after returning from the media blasters
              I was sure someone had switched cars! the one that came back looked like it had been to hell and back,maybe twice.

              I am struggling a little with attaching the images so stay tuned to see what dramas lie ahead.

              Jason

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              This is how the body came back from media blasting. We mainly use two types of media. For the inner structure we use garnet which is quite aggressive with a texture similar to beach sand. Generally if the metal is thin the garnet will blow holes in it to show us what really needs replacing. The Garnet requires sealing as soon as possible as Garnet blasted metal will flash rust quickly. So we blow it down and vacuum it out and apply 1 Coat of Glasurit epoxy primer to any area that was garnet blasted.

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              The second media is plastic and gives a very similar result to Soda . The plastic media however does not require water to neutralize it.
              The metal can sit for long periods of time in the raw after plastic blasting without rusting. (depending the humidity of course)
              The plastic media leaves a perfect surface (as if the metal were new) for file (metal) finish repairs.

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              as the images show the inner structure has a lot of issues which may not have been visible without removing the skins. Now all that is left is to make it pretty again.

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              • #8
                You're right Jason; that does not look like the same chassis in the previous photo. The amount of rusted out closing panels requires skin removal for a clean job and to make life easier. Makes perfect sense to me now. Looking forward to the repair progression! Thanks! Justin
                Justin Rio

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                • #9
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                  • #10
                    This is where I decided to start. I had noticed very poorly cut holes in the Left hand rear engine compartment.This was also my first mistake.
                    As it turns out Those poorly cut holes were factory fitted. I welded them up but they will have to be cut out again!
                    Through a little research I found out that 1956 bodies were built the same for push rod and 4 cam engines. bracket repaired was for optional oil tank (on 4 cam cars) and the holes were for oil lines.
                    Justin could probably shed a little light here?

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                    • #11
                      Jason,

                      Now, its also clear to me why the skins were taken off. Your pics explain that well. Your info on the blasting was also explained well, the plastic media makes the surface so clear to see. I remember the weeks I took scraping the complete underside of my 'A' in 1976. And of course its almost impossible ( well it is impossible) to get right up under the front wings towards the windscreen. Every rusted area you have shown I recognise from my experiences but yours are roughly 75% worse in the level of rusting to those I fabricated and welded 35 years ago. I guess if I had not attended to the car mine would have been the same as yours or probably much worse.
                      Its no wonder nearly all the RHD 356 cars just vanished after 20 years or so on our roads. Its only because I stopped taking the car out on rainy days from about 1972 that I still have it and still have
                      it and 95% of the original underside

                      I still say you are very brave to attempt this work, maybe you are of then same mindset as Justin, I know and remember well the feeling of almost elation when I fabricated a new section on the body welded and leaded the seams and achieved a result I was pleased with. Its a great feeling

                      I really look forward to seeing how you get on with the car, I guess your client is also!

                      Roy

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                      • #12
                        Hey Jason, Thanks for the update on this project. Yes, you're right all those holes were for the oil tank and the bracket you just repaired. All 1956-through early 1957 T1's rolled off the line "carrera ready" with the holes and bracketry. They stopped this sometime in mid to late 1957. Not the end of the world filling those holes. When its resound-deadend water from the tires cant get up between the new tarpaper and inside walls and cannot be seen anyway once finished. Here's a shot of the tank fitted to my coupe.
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                        The smaller two holes were for the oil line fittings. Top for normal opperating temps and the lower for extrememly cold opperating temps. One or the other was always capped depending on conditions.
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                        The bracket you repaired mounted both an oil tank flange and the screen for the tank. The two small nutters on the side of the bracket.
                        Looking forward to more progess on this beast! Thanks jason!

                        Justin
                        Justin Rio

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                        • #13
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                          After opening it up we fon the inners to be rusty also.
                          We clean up the rust with a wire wheel on a drill (or whatever else we can make work) the areas are painted with Wurth rust converter and then with weld trough copper spray.
                          It is a little scary to see how these cars rust at the seams!
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                          • #14
                            Thanks for this update Jason! Very nice work! All teadious little individual patch panels that can easily burn up an entire work day alone. Yes, its a reality that all of our cars have rust in these pinch seams. The amount of it varies to degree depending on the location of course but its under every seam guaranteed. These are the reasons good electrical grounds are always an issue with these cars. The lights are yellow or the starter labors with a fully charged battery. The current has to pass over all of these corroded joints to complete the circuit. Really an issue if your still on only 6 volts! Thanks again for updating! More please!
                            Justin
                            Justin Rio

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                            • #15
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