Hinge alignment 64 C

[Jbrooks]

The last time I did this, I got the A pilar reset and stright.the dropped in the drill rod to insure the car was Straightened. Lightly clamped the rod in the hinge. The I used a carbide scribe and scratched marks at the top and bottom of each hinge tap. Then used the rod to verify the door hinge position. Line up the scratch on the good door hinge, clamp and set the other to the witness mark to the other hinge.

I measure them a few times before trying to put the door on.

If you assemble the complete hinge on the door after repair, it's is easier to get the hinges to line up on the A pillar.

Also get a pair of long bolts that screw in the nut plates and cut off the head so you can use them as a guide pin to put on the door. If they stick out a 25mm you can hold the door on the pin and start the correct bolts. I also use the top pin to hold the shims, the remove the bolts and let the shim fall into position, and reinstall the bolts. You can also float a nut on the pins and finger tighten the hinge In to the nut plate when adjusting up down, fore and aft to get the gap close. Just don't try to close the door too hard against the pin.

[jim]

Thank you, excellent info will follow your instructions.

[jim]

Removed the bottom hinge, as you can see lots of rust.



This shows the bump stop bracket peeled up.

Have been removing fiberglass from the bottom of the door for the last two days. The body guy(I now call him the corvette guy) managed to cover the area completely with a very thick amount. He also covered up the drain holes.

Being a new to this process I did not realize the bump stop bracket was caved in. Early on I thought the caved in shape was detailed shaping Porsche used on the bracket. To further support my observation I have six doors in my garage and they all are caved in. It is probably a major problem and there seems to various ideas on how or what or what not to do with the bump stop bracket. Research will continue.

Thanks again for all the information provided, it certainly is speeding up my process. Jim

[Phil Planck]

Jim
On my 63 here is what that repaired area should sorta look like:

[roy mawbey]

Jim,

It never ceases to amaze me the rust situation on our cars. It is a wonder so many subjected to rainy days over the years are still on the road. You are correct, there are many cars with impressive bondo repairs looking sort of really original. These guys with filler and a selection of special scrapers and abrasive paper are really artistic sometimes.

Roy

[bbspdstr]

http://www.restoration-design.com/store/product/PP104DBL
http://www.stoddard.com/nla-49-712.html

How much is your time worth vs. a good replacement that is commercially available at a fair price?

[jim]

Right, I certainly would buy the part, which I do, in fact I seem to end up with a lot of stuff I don't need. But the practice of making sure comes in handy.

[jim]

Working on replacing the metal in the bottom hinge area. Fab a piece for the door and did a trail run with a scrap piece under the hinge(bump stop metal) and did the rod align.



The rod wants to go above the hinge, I can basically force it into the top hinge. The was the line up originally before run removal.



I placed a straight edge from the top hinge down to the start of the repair, all on orginal metal. Hard to see but the door has a dip in the middle of the straight edge.

Has anyone experience something similar. Or any suggestions. Does the rod have to move freely between the top and bottom hinge.

Is it possible the top hinge angle is off?

My wife said go buy another door, she is always right, I'm going to fight this door to the bitter end. Thanks guys

[jim]

I think I found my problem, the metal piece I made does not have the step down, just found a good picture and checked another door. Will remake my piece. Thanks

[jim]

Finished the hinge issues and in the process of rocker, threshold, etc. Does anybody know what the depth of the threshold should be where it slides under the longitudinals. Mine is showing 16mm and I can cut more off. Also is the metal remove at the front and back of the threshold where it meets the door seal.

At this area I have around 16 mm and more can be cut.

I assume this small piece should be cut out to allow the door seal to come down to the bottom seal.

The back same thing. Also notice which is hard to see that the longitudinal and threshold extra metal is slightly beyond the original inner longitudinal and also extends a little beyond the metal for the door seal.

[John Pierce]

The width of the threshold can be determined when you close you door. There should be about a finger's breadth there. The front and rear should be cut to allow the rubber seal to extend downwards.

[Scott B]

[jim]

Thanks john, will cut tomorrow and stick my finger in there and see what happens. Thanks for the info.

[jim]

Just to provide more info on the door repair. My earlier post has a picture of the door before the cutting. The door had a lot of bondo and fiberglass and has been hammer in so they could use up more bondo. When I cut the skin at around 4 inches the good skin flex into the door a considerable amount. I could not get it to flex back and stay. Lacking experience I'm sure. It was like a very large oil can bong. Finally ended up bowing a 1/8 inch flat bar and then welded the new replacement. When I removed the flat bar, guess what, the oil can went in, new replacement and all. So a lot of major banging prying and other things not to mention it finally came out. Still working on it, not too pretty at this point. Its reaching an acceptable level, nothing like what you guys are doing. Will see what happens. Took pictures but my photo thing upgraded and lost the photo's.

[jim]

Hi Scott, Are you looking at the area on the door where I had the problem with the step down.