Chassis 85517 Number 17 356 Convertible D

[JTR70]

Now onto the forward rocker joint.
Wiped in tinning acid and a base of solder.
Again, I 'll chase the divots out in filler primer and putty.
By the way I pulled so much solder out of this door that it was almost a crime to just throw it away. Instead I reconstituted it into sticks and reused most of it. I figured we saved at least a 100 bucks in solder here.

Onto the rear door jamb area.

[JTR70]

Rear jamb:
Slowly applying and filing in the relief shapes.
Trickiest part of adding on more is not melting away what you've already built. Bondo is so much more forgiving.
By sessions end I had the basic shape and fill I was after.
Gap and rear lower rocker joint as well.
As before, I'll chase the rest of the flaws out with putty and primer. Just a little more soldering to the door itself yet to do.

Thanks for looking!
Justin

[roy mawbey]

How true Justin the leading skill needs practice often to perfect. Also I lost so much on vertical surfaces and re-used it as well like you. Some really nice finishing work on the doors what a difference that makes!
Roy

[JTR70]

It was hard leaving behind some of those divots Roy but the risk of screwing up what I had built was too great to chase them out. As you said, the vertical surfaces will frustrate the hell out of you until you have the practice put in. Thanks again!

[Phil Planck]

Beautiful lead work Justin.

[JTR70]

Thanks Phil! Not as beautiful as I'd like but it will do...

[JTR70]

A little more lead and onto the next phase.
Last of the soldering work was to the back edge of the door to conceal the pinch seam as was done originally.
All set. As with the rest of it I'll get the last of the imperfections out with putty.
A very long road to finally arrive here but this side is now ready for body and paint work.
All the basic lines and gaps are in a solid foundation of lead and steel so just a skim coat of mud is all that is needed to get it the rest of the way.
Scrubbing all leaded areas thoroughly with warm soapy water and a brillo pad to make sure all the tinning acids are neutralized.

[JTR70]

heavy coat of epoxy sealer applied.
Door reinastalled for initial application of putty.
Putty taking care of those divots and other blemishes in my leadwork nicely.
Between applications I went onto another metal correction project. Both fender mount tabs were installed upside down by the previous shop. The left side I did earlier so it was now onto this side. Melted the solder away...
To find this cleft shaped area where the tab is now mounted. Cutting this back out next.
Thanks for looking!
Justin

[JTR70]

Right rear fender brace and tab:
This was my easiest approach to both remove the tab for flipping and to get rid of this trigger point holding that cleft shape that was back filled.

Not quite the way it should have been attached to the back of the body but removal was at least easy.
My repair patch would be slightly larger than I first thought . This way I eliminate a little more old accident damage in the process.
Nothing is ever straight forward. With the tab in its correct orientation the brace positions the mating tang of this tab well below the edge of the fender. Maybe this is why they mounted these tabs upside down in the first place; its the only way they'd fit.
Out the brace came for repositioning so it can all go back together correctly. Now for the fun part of grinding down those welds laying on the floor. More later...

Thanks for looking!
Justin

[JTR70]

New patch:
Rummaging through my scraps I found the perfect remnant section from my coupster project. Its the exact spot as you can see where the holes where drilled to remove its mount tab. Perfect example of why I can't bring myself to throw old original scraps away.

Got my work all cut out for myself here.
Trimming the donor section back to needed size.
Decided to go just a little larger as I could eliminate some more old damage.
Donor patch all clean and ready to go. there is subtle curve in it so this was much easier and quicker than making it out of some fresh flat stock. note the factory hammer marks towards the top.

[JTR70]

New section installed.
New piece tacked in.
It will still need hammer shaping after all the welding is done but its at least in the ballpark.
All stitched in and dressed.
Simultaneously Blocking and filling.,Second coat of sealer here.
Top run is taking shape and just about ready for an initial tracer coat to see how straight and consistent the surface actually is.
More later.... Thanks for stopping by!
Justin

[JTR70]

Rear fender brace details:
Now that the new patch is fully stitched in I could move onto locating the tab in its correct orientation .
As the mock ups progressed with the brace there was something about the tip that just didn't seem right.

A quick look under my car confirmed it. The tips are supposed to be splayed out.
Thank god for referrence parts.
This Simonsen brace must be a B/C version. Its here and I had to move on so I just cut it apart and am making the needed changes to the tip. Old tips cut free and one end already splayed out.

[JTR70]

Getting the new ends dialed in with needed kick on the bottom run for the right approach angle with the fender tab.
Initial mock ups to get it all to fit and work together. After all that the brace is now of course too short so some extension lengths were next.
Top one all set with attachment flanges this time. Had to take a second stab at the bottom as the angle was just a touch off to seat flush at the frame all the while working with everything else attached to it.
Done! Brace is now set for final welding to the chassis. The tab has been welded into final position at this point.
Fully welded and set. Just needs a scuff and will get another round of rocker shootz before its all over. Onto the next deal...

Thanks for looking!
Justin

[Phil Planck]

Justin
more nice work. I clicked on like but looks like it showed unlike.

[JTR70]

Thank you Phil! It worked, the "unlike" you're seeing on your end is the option to change your mind.

[roy mawbey]

Hey what a story Justin. That needed patience and so right, the chance to have a copy part. Just how do people manage this level of restoration without having parts to copy? I have the answer though, they just need to look at all your efforts over the years they will see the answers with your super dooper photos my friend.

The present owner of this car is so lucky to have found you to correct so many mistakes. Well done again. That front door shut gaps are so good and so even
and so little lead. Really great bit of work!
Roy

[JTR70]

Thanks a lot Roy! Absolutely, without original examples to look off of I'd be sunk for sure. I appreciate it but I have since run into some major trouble with that right door again so all that work with the gaps is as of this moment toast. I'll post all that a bit later.

[JTR70]

Left brace correction:
When I corrected the left fender tab orientation some time back this tip detail escaped me. It of course had to match so out it came. Fortunately it was only bolted to the chassis so removal was much more pleasant experience. As the red primer signifies its a Simonsen piece.
New tips ready for installation.
New tips all welded in. Now onto correcting that inner mount flange.
Tips dressed and inner mount flange cut and shaped to match my original example. I left the inner flange alone until I had the tips rewelded so this thing didn't change shape on me.
Simonsen set this inner flange up with smaller capture nuts that took the 10MM headed bolt but the originals where set up for the 13 or 14MM headed bolt. I went ahead installed the larger capture nuts.

[JTR70]

Left brace reinstallation:
Here is what my original T2 example was showing me. Left over removable T1 braces with the capture nuts but gas welded permanently in place at the bottom and spot welded in at the top. Mind you that this is a Reutter tail section.
Began cleaning and prepping the chassis to follow this detail but I could find no evidence of a brace being previously welded by the factory here.
The holes where old too and not put in by the previous shop to simply mount that Simonsen brace in as purchased. These were also opened for the larger bolt so I eventually came to the conclusion that this must be a Drauz thing and these late T2's came from the factory removable just like the 1956-57 T1's did for a 4-cam option if ordered.
Bolted back in as it was originally.
I'm at bit of a disadvantage not being the one to see this car and take note of how it originally was or having a Drauz bodied car in town to look off of but fortunately in this instance I had just enough to go on to get it right. All done under here.
Thanks for looking!
Justin