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1959 356A S/R coupe project chassis # 108625 -
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That ' tilting nonsense ' was not nonsense was it! Good thinking there, and the same with finish welding as much as possible from the inside. It's what after the event seems logical but nothing seemed logical to me, when I was confronted with that. Further more, that experience was hard earned no doubt and those without the skills should take note! Mind you, I excuse my self a little as I only had gas welding the Mig would have been an asset probably on long runs.
This door repair continues to illustrate just how difficult proper 356 restoration really is, and I, a chronically impatient soul, can barely fathom the diligent inner fortitude required. I'm so impressed. And thankful to Justin for taking the EXTRA time to post it for all of us.
Are any of you following the 356 body rebuild on classiccarreras.com? That's the site of a shop by the same name in Ireland, mostly does 911's. His approach likely involves replacing more metal with new than Justin's; I'd say it's more "production oriented", but that sounds critical which is not my intention. Different, not better/worse. Thanks, John
I was just lucky I didn't make things worse for myself there Roy Yes, a few things I've picked up from doing it completely wrong in the past.
Thanks for the link John, Agree, as a full on production shop, choices have to made. As I am just "some guy" I may have a little more latitude to explore saving more of the original metal. Thank you both for the really words and the appreciation for the amount of effort that has gone into these repairs so far.
Justin
12/13/17
Forced to trim off the rest of the door stop flange to be able to slide the bottom back on.
Test fit with the bottom installed and the alignment with the rocker improved.
All the new pieces beginning to work together.
All stitched up.
A lot of waves and rollers to iron out but not a horrible start.
Many rounds of heat shrinking
Again the real luxury was having easy and clear access to the backside.
Some waves remain but no deeper than the thickness of this ruler.
Chased it about as far as I can with it hanging loose.
It will certainly change a little once its finally clamped to the bottom so I wait and make any further needed adjustments to the skin's surface once its all built. I won't have the access but hopefully I won't have to correct too much.
Starting with the center section then building outward. Setting it in here almost blind was a lot trickier than on the left side where I had open access with the door skin out of the way.
It took a series of trials and errors before I had it so the first few holes where a bust.
I was able to sneak in a quick tack to hold its position so I could remove the bottom for final trimming and welding.
All stitched in.
Once the center was secured the lateral edges went right into shape with a little heat.
Retested with the bottom after welding and it of course shifted a bit but still within tolerance.
It will be at least a clean look down into this pocket when its all finished.
Lateral sections next.
These next pieces would be much easier to set and locate with the center section there to build out from.
That next...
Thanks for stopping by!
Justin
Thanks a lot you guys!! I have to admit that door repair is beginning to be my least favorite.
Thanks again!
Justin
12/14/17 Part 2
This thread is a little behind so I'm trying to get it caught up.
Rear portion tacked in first.
Relaxed the flange a touch so it sat flush against the bottom then started adding set screws.
Froward section next with access hole punched.
With the new flange snug against the bottom I added more screws to draw everything tighter still they also represent where the eventual plug welds will be.
Had to finish stitching them in. The last of the long seam welds on this repair though.
All stitched and dressed.
Getting the bottom ready for final installation by tying up some loose ends like welding shut these incorrect prepunched holes.
And also adding in the twin drains up by the outer flange.
A little more trimming yet to do but I'm dangerously close to finally buttoning this up for good.
Thanks for looking!
Justin
have any of you tried these, they work great for grinding tacks and welds. you can see the tack weld right through the wheel when your grinding it. also I see that you use sheet metal screws and I do sometimes, but have any of you used Clecos.
Jay D.
have any of you tried these, they work great for grinding tacks and welds. you can see the tack weld right through the wheel when your grinding it. also I see that you use sheet metal screws and I do sometimes, but have any of you used Clecos.
Jay D.
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