1959 356A S/R coupe project chassis # 108625

[JTR70]

Rear cross member rust repair:
We have some rust repair to address along the backwall/rear cross member flange. The original engine shelf was cut out before the car came to me and I can only assume it didn't fare much better than this flange directly above it.
The rot is localized to the right side of this run only. With the left side intact I was thinking I might get away with just gas welding these holes closed. Began wire wheeling this area to get a better idea of just how far gone it was.
It was looking like I might get away with that approach but looking at it from the back side of this flange it was becoming clear that it was a bit too advanced. You can see in this shot that the wrap around flange of the closing wall as also rusted through.
Too much heavy scale and advanced rot down in this joint to leave behind.
The light shining from the front side here shows more breaches above and around the bumper mount flange. To fix this properly the entire cross member would have to come out.

Thanks for looking.

Justin

[JTR70]

Begin rear cross member removal.
Once the cross member is cut out the integrity of the frame back here is going to be extremely compromised and since my rotisserie works off of the bumper mounts sagging, flexing and or bending is a serious concern when the body is rolled over to one side or the other. This won't be an issue with the car fully upright or upside down; only the lateral forces created with it tipped to one side. I've had this heavy section of angle iron with threaded ends around since I made it for use with my car back in the late 90's.
Mounts from the wiring conduit holes so no modifications required. Most of the cross member has been removed at this point and cut just ahead of the bumper mount gussets.

No matter how you slice it this a very tight and tough area to get at with the tail skin on. Thankfully I can remove that angle iron with the car fully upright or up side down.
Begin by opening up this pinch flange to remove the remains of the cross-member flange. You can see there is two layers of metal down in here. The factory doubled the cross-member flange over on top of itself for added strength and ridgity. The new repro parts do not have this detail but it will be added.
The belly of this flange run just about free. Much to my great relief I found that most of those huge spot welds along the outside of this run had missed their mark and save for just a coupe of spot welds that did, the center of this old flange pretty much slipped right out. I'll take it where I can get it. A lot of heavy rust scale coming out as the removal progressed. This was the right way to go.

Thanks for looking.

Justin