1959 356A S/R coupe project chassis # 108625

[JTR70]

Rear cross member rust repair:
We have some rust repair to address along the backwall/rear cross member flange. The original engine shelf was cut out before the car came to me and I can only assume it didn't fare much better than this flange directly above it.
The rot is localized to the right side of this run only. With the left side intact I was thinking I might get away with just gas welding these holes closed. Began wire wheeling this area to get a better idea of just how far gone it was.
It was looking like I might get away with that approach but looking at it from the back side of this flange it was becoming clear that it was a bit too advanced. You can see in this shot that the wrap around flange of the closing wall as also rusted through.
Too much heavy scale and advanced rot down in this joint to leave behind.
The light shining from the front side here shows more breaches above and around the bumper mount flange. To fix this properly the entire cross member would have to come out.

Thanks for looking.

Justin

[JTR70]

Begin rear cross member removal.
Once the cross member is cut out the integrity of the frame back here is going to be extremely compromised and since my rotisserie works off of the bumper mounts sagging, flexing and or bending is a serious concern when the body is rolled over to one side or the other. This won't be an issue with the car fully upright or upside down; only the lateral forces created with it tipped to one side. I've had this heavy section of angle iron with threaded ends around since I made it for use with my car back in the late 90's.
Mounts from the wiring conduit holes so no modifications required. Most of the cross member has been removed at this point and cut just ahead of the bumper mount gussets.

No matter how you slice it this a very tight and tough area to get at with the tail skin on. Thankfully I can remove that angle iron with the car fully upright or up side down.
Begin by opening up this pinch flange to remove the remains of the cross-member flange. You can see there is two layers of metal down in here. The factory doubled the cross-member flange over on top of itself for added strength and ridgity. The new repro parts do not have this detail but it will be added.
The belly of this flange run just about free. Much to my great relief I found that most of those huge spot welds along the outside of this run had missed their mark and save for just a coupe of spot welds that did, the center of this old flange pretty much slipped right out. I'll take it where I can get it. A lot of heavy rust scale coming out as the removal progressed. This was the right way to go.

Thanks for looking.

Justin

[JTR70]

Flange clean up and beginning corner clean out.
Needed that angle iron out of my way to wrestle this the rest of the ay out.
All coming free with only what remains at the corners along the outer bumper mount gussets.

The tricky part next. The corners remain intact so I'll have to unpeel this onion without damaging the outer bumper mount gussets and the frames side walls.
Cleaning up the triangular gusset first. Two layers here with lots of spot welds. The flange remains of the engine shelf and the crossmember itself. No clear shot at drilling all of those out so this will be grinding and peel time taking care not to damage the gusset, upper closing wall and the frame sides as I go. Confined space with tucked in corners...lots of fun ahead.
One layer gone and grinding the final layer here. Prying it up and testing what I can rip away as it goes.

Thanks for looking.

Justin

[JTR70]

New cross member prep:
Getting the inside of that gusset cleaned of old crossmember bit by bit. This cleanout was extremely tedious so I had to take breaks from it.
In between the long grinding sessions in those corners of the frame I needed a break and began prepping the new crossmember for installation.
This car is so late that the factory finally ran out of crossmembers with these pre- punched elongated holes for the 1956-57 removable engine shelf. Even though they hadn't been utilized for a couple of years the earlier 59's still had these holes lurking under their welded in engine shelves.

Back filled for a correct late '59 appearance.
Welds dressed smooth. Double folded upper flange detail replicated for appearance and increased strength and rigidity. Like most frame components this new part is made from 20 gauge whare the original was 18 gauge. Not the end of the world back here as its not critically load bearing as the technical end the chassis is at the trans hoop mount but I'm glad to muscle it up were I can.

Thanks for looking.

Justin

[roy mawbey]

justin more and more and more do I realize just how lucky I am not to have to face some if these jobs that come up to face you. Back in about 1975 I remember stripping all those parts and preparing them for paint and rust prevention. I thought that was a lot of work !!!!!

Roy

[JTR70]

The '70s was an amazing time to be involved with these cars I'm certain Roy. Really good cars were still plentiful and quite affordable. You'd have to have been off your rocker to try and save a car as rusty as this one back in those days. This car would have been stripped of its parts decapitated for the S/R clip and the rest sent to the shredder. No one in their right mind would have wasted their time and energy on this car back then as you all were so spoiled for choice. I'm glad you decided to save yours though. Justin

[JTR70]

Back to corner cleaning:
Right gusset cleaned of old cross member. Just have to fish out the remains of its flange in the pinch seam.
Before I did that I wanted to catch the left side up as I wanted this unpleasantry behind me as soon as I could.
Same process of grinding and peeling while trying not to damage it and the surrounding walls as I went.
Left side gusset cleaned and in process here of removing the old flange.
Bending the gusset inward got it out of my way to get at that last bit of flange all the down to its corner were its fused closed with a gas weld.


Thanks for looking.

Justin