1959 356A S/R coupe project chassis # 108625

[JTR70]

Dash top part 3:
Onto the left corner. As well as drain hole duties the lower corner on this side came with a weird contour shape that will need some correction.
Will need some relief cutting and bit more welding on this side.
Began relief cutting and reshaping that corner but before I I went any further now was the time to dial in the mounting screw holes to lock in its final mounted position. Paper tabs locate the original holes then flip out of the way for another dash top mock up.
Then lay over top showing me exactly where to drill. Recontouring that corner was well in process.
Process repeated on the right side with mounting screws installed here. With this now set fine contour trimming of its edge to more closely follow the dash reveal shape.

[JTR70]

Dash part 4:
Final shaping and trimming. Right side completed.
A bit more cutting and welding on this side to get it to lay right.

Edge reveal just above the gauge was trimmed back a touch too far and straight as delivered so a sliver fill was added to clean up its shape. Only a whisper of it remained after final shaping but the final presentation will be far nicer once its wrapped in leather and up against the profile shape of the dash face.
Installed for one last time. Fully trimmed, fitted and set screwed into final position.
Hitting it with a quick top coat of sealer and paint next then off to the upholsterer it goes. Back to battery box repairs.

Thanks for looking!

Justin

[JTR70]

T2 rear battery wall repairs continued:
New lower wall section flanged and ready to take on the rest of the needed shape.
The bends for the recess are a much softer and larger roll; not a simple 90 degree bend. Had to scrounge and find suitable die and fortunately I had this heavy stock with just the right corners on it.

Making the perfect hammer form.
Basic lower repair section shaped.
Then it was onto the lateral overlapping corners.

[JTR70]

Lateral repair flange sections complete; Recycling a little more of the old metal to make them. These pieces where made a while back then set aside while I went back to the beam pulling duties.
Fast forward and these corners are now tacked in. Lateral flange sections also tacked. Repurposing more scrap metal.
Final trimming and fitment of the main repair section soon.
But I had to add one more profile shape in first. There is pleat with a slight kick in the bottom flange along both sides. Over exaggerated bend while installing this detail here.
Relaxed back out and now just about ready to begin tacking this repair section in.

Thanks for looking!

Justin

[roy mawbey]

Justin what an interesting two pages of forum read. There is just so much metal to get right. Your effort here in the dash top work I have never seen so well detailed before, I have often looked at my original dash and wondered how it was put together now I know. I am aware my original factory vinyl dash top is padded in a way where the top vinyl surface is actually flat until it has the radius to meet the insturment face. I have seen some cars with too much padding on top and too soft. The work you are doing just looks so correct, well done !

Roy

[JTR70]

Thanks Roy! I agree with you, I can remember seeing reupholstered dashes that looked like over stuffed pillows from my own beginnings and thinking how terrible it all looked in there. The leading edge of the top had a formed fibrous lip that created that nice radiused turn your describing; then a thin padded overlay.
My father and I recovered this dash way back in the late '80's. We used a thin high density foam for the top overlay and it was a must in my eyes that the overall profile shape run as flat and firm as possible.
The original coconut strand formed leading edge was of course crispy and unusable so thick blocks of foam where glued to the leading edge and once set the foam was sand-shaped to contour of that old lip. The final shape and presentation under the Naugahyde turned out just like I had hoped and this old repair/restoration is actually the only feature remaining from the 80's that I still agree with and feel is nice enough to not require a redo except for the actual covering itself. It needs to be recovered in the correct German style grain.
The dash top for this project is now epoxy and top coated completing the prep on this end. Its now off to A.I. for reupholstering. Back to the battery box.

Justin

[JTR70]

Rear wall repairs in basic completion:
Final trimming complete and tacking in from the flanged sides first. I normally like to begin from the center outward but it was more critical that corners and flanged edge continued the line from the original panel.
Once the sides where set then the rest of the run was tacked together.
All stitched up with most of the weld seam grounded back. Have yet to finish up the corners but that can be done anytime before the walls final installation.
Now that I have a basic wall I wanted to begin locating it into its final centered and level position in between the side walls of the battery box.
This walls initial location was sight marked and measured off of the beam and the footprint of this car's original walls attachment point on the left side. This was only a jumping off point however. Every component comprising this final frame structure is now either new reproduction, crash repaired, rust repaired or both individually so with that reality in mind it is safe to say there will be many, many fine adjustments and changes that will be needed during the pre-assembly process to get all of these panels to fit tight and square in relation to one another when its all over.

[JTR70]

Initial battery box assembly mock up:
Wall set screwed into preliminary position. New floor and front wall sections added for the first time to see what adjustments needed to be made if any to the rear walls current location. Very relieved to learn that I'll be able to slip the floor and front wall in as unit so I'll avoid the trouble of cutting them apart and rewelding. I'll take the small breaks when I can get them.
So far so good. The leading edge of the floor butts up against the wall pretty well. The rear wall flexes and contorts a lot so there is plenty of wiggle room so to speak. I'll have add some width to both sides of the floor as they where trimmed to fit the T1 version wall it came as a unit with.
And again will have to add a filler strip along the right side edge where the pre-assembled box unit was built with a taper. That pre-assembly would have missed the suspension mounting flange by a mile.
The final piece for this initial confirmation mock up was the cap.
This section was lined up with its original spot welds along the sides first then the rear wall's mounting flange was inserted and bottomed out fully against the folded leading edge. It nearly went in on the first try. The top of left side walls flange required some slight repositioning forward to allow it to seat completely into the fold . No big deal at the moment but these are all the adjustments that have to be accounted for before you try adding any tack welds. It will punish you severely if you don't. Set screws have now been added to lock in these two panels position with one another.

[JTR70]

Initial mock up complete:
Leading edge has a sway-back profile to it for now but that will all level out once crimped tightly and welded to the rear wall. Sight markings as well as this one with the beam and the top of the front wall are all confirming its sitting very close square and level in there.
We've got a basic battery box again. A fun and rewarding session but only because it all pretty much fit together by the end. Now the next phase of getting it all ready for final assembly and installation. The real work...

Thanks for looking.

Justin

[roy mawbey]

You should be so very pleased with that result Justin. Your procedures work so well.
Roy

[JTR70]

Thanks Roy! So far so good anyway...

[JTR70]

Onto the final preparation work for these two panels:
Basic panels but a long way from install ready. Welding, cleaning, accessory part reinstalment and finally a good coat of paint on these inner surfaces before they go in for good.
And then of course this compartment will also have to be cleaned up and painted first. The time is now as there is a clear shot at getting thorough coverage on the tops of these tubs and other surfaces that will be shielded once the panels are reinstalled.
These two panels are now set in relation to one another as mounted in the chassis so that is a done deal. I have a clearance issue with the corner of the box and the access cover jamb. The added recess width on a T2 battery wall all went to the left side and is asymmetrical from the factory.
Not a big deal but the recess will have to turn a little quicker to allow a flush fit. Just an example of the hurdles you're constantly dealt.
All the while drilling the rest of the plug weld holes and also prepping those reinforcement struts for reinstallation.

[JTR70]

Rear wall repair completed:
All the repair joints stitched up and now onto dressing them all smooth.
Weld seam work completed.
Now onto more minutia. Repairing and reinstalling the peripheral parts that were removed during the straightening phase. Original battery cover hold down tabs were cut and need some length added back on. Was going to harvest the new ones from the repro wall but they are only 20 gauge.
All the small doodads added back on.
Welding completed as far as the repairs on this old wall go. Soaking in acid next in prep for sealer and paint. A little closer to final installation time.

Thanks for looking!

Justin

[JTR70]

Clean up time:
Rear wall just out from the acid bath. A little wire wheeling is all thats needed to take it the rest of the way.
In process of cleaning up the rust, tar remnants and scale on the underside of the vin panel.
While that soaked I began wire wheeling the rust, scale and tar remnants on the chassis itself. A ways yet to go here.
Final cleaning and weld repair detail work complete on the rear wall. Plug -weld holes punched along the bottom flange in anticipation for the new floor.
All ready for a sealer coat and to be joined to the vin panel once its finally ready. Getting close.

Thanks for looking!
Justin

[roy mawbey]

Fantastic effort there Justin, so well thought out and so many holes to drill! That battery box area will look factory new. Tell me that complete area on my car is still untouched from new. but after all that work, the factory plastered it all over with the thick black bubbly rust preventative. I still have all that, but tell me you are going to paint it properly to show the effort you put in to make it look so good? Some might say it has to look the same as 1959 but I think the preventative used should be better than the stuff they put on and which half the time did not last that long anyway!!

Roy

[JTR70]

Thank you Roy! Yes, a lot of plug weld holes along the leading edge of the Vin panel. It was tempting to cut the number of welds in half but after considering that this joint contends with the constant weight of the eventual battery and spare tire both laying on the floor and also strapped to this area I decided it best to replicate the number of contact points as closely as I could to what the factory had done. This explains why the original factory spots along this run were so numerous and set in with a much higher amperage compared to most spot welds found on these cars. Yes, all these panels will get a nice top coat for starters but it will all be eventually undercoated and tar papered. A lot of these efforts will be hidden in the end but at least it can be confirmed now that it was repaired correctly. Thanks again! Justin

[JTR70]

Vin and vertical wall welding:
Original gussets ready for reinstallation. Inner surfaces all clean and coated in epoxy.
Gussets in and plug welds dressed. After all the rust and old accident repair required for these two panels they are both finally ready to be welded together for good.
Begin plug welding from the center outward.
Center weld run all plugged in with good penetration through to the underside of the flange shown here. I have no worries about this joint coming apart.

To match the number of spot welds that the factory did with plugs along this joint seems like overkill but once you consider the weight of the eventual battery and spare tire that this area will help to support it makes perfect sense as to why it was so aggressively welded together originally. Moving out to the latter runs next.

Thanks for looking.

Justin