1959 356A S/R coupe project chassis # 108625

[JTR70]

Most of this upper run will have to relief cut to allow the garnish rail to come down and seat correctly in the window opening.
I went through in my mind that maybe I should have installed the panel with a downward angle to accommodate this but no, that would have thrown all the flanges off as it continues on into the engine compartment and the one against the striker post.
The upper panel shoulder should have been installed with a tapered clearance angle as it makes its way to the B-pillar. Another example of how little you can trust these new parts and how often they will create situations that will have you pulling your hair out when it comes time to reassemble the car especially if you don't test fit the additional finishing components as it goes. More to come...
Thanks for looking.

Justin

[roy mawbey]

Oh Justin how true your words are ! You would think a reprom part should just fit or maybe if the suppliers had a problem just advised a procedure. Some people who do not have your experience would be bald by now. Hope it works out Justin,
Roy

[JTR70]

Thanks Roy, Will get this final obstacle right in the end; no choice as its 90% installed at this point. Every panel you buy is a "will fit" but this one has been exceptionally challenging to install in one piece as it intersects in so many areas and as the last entry shows it has to "arrive" at just the right angle and height to allow the next layer to seat correctly. It has tried my patience on more than one occasion but its almost there so that spec of light keeps it going. Thanks again Roy!

[JTR70]

Moved onto other aspects of this new wall installation.
Finished up the double row of plug welds along the bottom edge. Still have to come back and level the heads but the intensive leap frogging of set screw to welding for a tight fit was at least completed along this run.
Just about ready to hammer this old flap back over top to finish the new lap joint.
Moved back over to the B-pillar base gusset. Slathering the cavity with sealer so the cap could be installed for the final time.
Cap installed for the last time and plug welding it on here. As you can see aside from the needed modification along the top there was still plenty of other loose ends still to tie to complete this new wall installation. The list was getting shorter though.

Thanks for looking!

Justin

[JTR70]

Finishing out the last of the new floor installation details:

Really got bogged down with that new left closing wall installation and needed a break from it before I go after that last upper flange area correction. Switched gears and finished up the last bits of the floor installation.
Beginning with the pedal mounting bracket. Drilled for the last two remaining holes and its into final position here.
Original reference shows three small seam welds along the edges and its relation with the round embossment relief.
Bracket mounted for the final time and ready to weld. Tips will get a seam weld and the center/corner next to that hole has been ground level for a small weld as originally done. BTW: Its ultimate placement in relation to this floors embossment location could not have turned out better. This has been a problem with other installations I've done.

The pedal location is pretty much set. The three floor studs should end up towards the back of the slots in the pedal frame/housing when the master cylinder flange is drawn tight against the bulkhead wall for ease of removal and installation so its up the manufacture of these new panels to get that rounded relief's placement close. They got it right on this one.

Welding completed and onto the next deal. As you can see I still have several plug weld heads to dress down could not avoid that unpleasantry much longer...

Thanks for looking!

Justin

[roy mawbey]

Very well done Justin. You have the pacience of Jobe my friend. I keep on saying to myself how lucky I am not to have encounted repairs like that. It will be a great car when finished !
Roy

[JTR70]

Appreciate it Roy! These repairs can get involved and at times there is no other way around it. Thanks again Sir! Justin

[JTR70]

Lateral seat track mounts. The final additions to this new floor installation capping off this major repair.
To dial in the lateral pedestal position an old seat base with tracks is needed to find the right width, spacing on for those new mounts.
Basic mock up here.
The base slid nicely but the real test will be after the pedestal are tacked and the nuts synched down snug.
Width is set and now dialing the outer fore and aft adjustment so the tracks end up even and square with one another. Metal strap laid at the front edge of the tracks above confirms the needed final position.

More later...
Thanks for looking!
Justin

[JTR70]

Forward pedestal prep.
Width and placement of the lateral track is set but the pedestal is shouldered right up against the wall here. All things being equal I now want the studs centered in the flange holes. This neutral position will allow for more potential adjustment options in the event of a fitment issue when actual seats and tracks for this car actually go in for the final time. The flanges will need some trimming to allow for this final adjustment.
Original example shows a much narrower flange for further confirmation. I always thought these pedestals where spot welded onto the floor but no, this example from a late '58 coupe are gas welded on in three runs around the perimeter.
Both flanges marked out for trimming to reduced diameters.
Trimmed and just about ready to mount on for good. I don't entirely trust these pressed in studs so a quick weld was added between the heads to ensure they never get loose. Can you imagine the frustration when this car is all buttoned up and the need to remove the track only to find one of these studs turning free? Won't be an issue now.
Mounting the right pedestal in for good next.

Thanks for looking.

Justin

[JTR70]

Right side Lateral pedestal mount install complete.
Forward, aft and width dialed in leaving just the slight incline to pair up side to side to ensure a smooth operation. The tunnel is of course set so it is the baseline and dictates what adjustments need to be performed to achieve a match.
Now a match with the tunnel showing the bubble just outside the rear line.
I thought I had it but after this rear mount was tacked it was too inclined in relation to the tunnel so I had to cut it free and rebend that outer flange a few MM's lower so it would stand taller and at level. Above pic shows how much it was short.
Welded up with a smooth seat base operation with mounts synched down tight; All set on this side. Forward pedestal seam welded along its edge as found on my original reference floor.
Repeat the process on the left side.

Thanks for looking!
Justin

[JTR70]

Floor repairs officially completed.
Left pedestals installed. No other attachments or things to add in here.
All cockpit metal work now fully completed..
Now that I was done topside I decided now was time to bite the bullet and finish off the numerous remaining plug-weld heads along the tunnels flange. By this photo I was just under 100 heads left to dress along the left side flange run. As tedious as this all was it was a far more pleasant experience dressing these down smooth out here rather than top side with the tunnel in my way. Just the things you pick up as you go.
A few sessions later I had all the heads leveled and followed up with my panel spotter for the finishing detail.
All metal work and finishing detail on this side of the floor now completed as well. Onto the next deal.

Thanks for looking!
Justin

[jjeffries]

Dear Justin, I drop in from time to time and even now, am just amazed by how complex these cars are … to do right. I’d have thought you’d have German restoration elves flying over from Stuttgart to learn “exactly how” from 356 Zen Master J. Rios. I admire so much, including the gas welding details.

Kind regards from Connecticut,
John

[JTR70]

Hello John, Thank you for continuing to make some time to follow this saga and for the kind words! Actually, I am the one following and trying to replicate as best as I can what the "German Elves" did all those years ago. Wishing you and your family the very best in the coming new year and thank you again! Justin

[roy mawbey]

Well done Justin, so many things to do and you can see how the hours just slip away after looking at all the plug welding and final preparation. Have a good Christmas break you deserve it !
Roy

[JR]

Oh Justin,
I am so very glad mine is done, but thats what the Roadster looked like at the beginning.
Have a great Christmas and thanks for the e-mail!

[JTR70]

Roy, Thanks again and for the appreciation for time it takes to execute these repairs. I'm enjoying my break for sure and I hope you're having a pleasant holiday season as well.

Thanks Dick! Wishing you the same!

[JR]

At My dentist.

He never disappoints with his inflatables!

[JTR70]

Your car looks Great Dick, as it always does. That has to be one of the few dentist offices in the country that kids might not mind visiting as much.

[Jbrooks]

Justin

when you use your panel spotter to overset the spot welds, are you using a single point ground, or the two tip method. I have used both with not problem, but my DAD says single point ground has the weld contacts too far apart to get enough heat. I disagree electrically, but he has been doing it longer.

Oh by the way, that the best floor install I have ever seen.

[JTR70]

Hey John, I am using a single point ground; a contact tip in each hand. Based on experience I'd have to agree with you, the distance doesn't seem to make a difference as that varies constantly as I go. What does make a difference is the "dwell" time and some times even that yields inconsistent results. Unless your spot welder is an industrial unit I wouldn't trust any of them! As you know well, the factory spots are tough and very resilient; even between two very rusty panels as they won't give up easily. While annoying during removal, they are still doing their job very well after all these years so a blessing at the same time. All the aftermarket spot welds I've run across give up very easily. RD's and Trevor's spot welds on their new panels are no comparison to the factory spots. All I've had to do is drill the center of the weld (leaving some shoulder of it) and with a quick hit of my hammer and chisel it will "click" apart with very little resistance. By contrast if you miss any bit of the original spot weld you'll usually end up tearing the metal in and around the remains of the spot as you try repeatedly to get it to break apart. The closest I've been able to replicate the bond of a factory Spot weld is with a MIG'd plug weld. Those are just as unpleasant and difficult to remove as a factory weld so I know the bond is as close as I can replicate. This why my panel spotter is strictly for visual effect and final presentation.
Thanks for saying so John, I appreciate that!!


Slight modification to the front beam adjusters:

Owner wants the ability to lower the front of the car a little more than the stock configuration will allow.
The original adjusters do have the potential of allowing a bit more upward rotation. By elongating the upper end of the adjuster hole in the tube the collar/block could be rotated and bottomed out against the adjuster bung for a maximum lowered stance. Anything further than this would require major cutting and reconfiguration of the adjusters.
To have any shot of getting tools on this grub bolt and locking nut in that new maxed out position in photo one this portion of the adjuster gusset will have to be removed.
Removing no more than I have to.
Lower portion of the gusset cut now giving a clear shot at the eventual bolt in the new maxed out position. As you can see the block is resting against the bung here so we'll only be opening up the slotted hole in the tube by just under the bolts shouldered width. Doesn't seem like much but once that movement is translated through the end of the control arms it should yield an additional 1-2 inches of lowered ride height over stock.
Opening up the top of this gusset for access next. Laying out my cut lines.

More on this next.

Thanks for looking!

Justin

[JTR70]

Upper portion of the gusset now opened as needed for tool access in maxed out position.
Gusset modification complete and now onto elongating the upper portion of the slotted holes in the tubes.
A little blurry but the etched cut line highlights how much is going to be removed.
Taped guide lines to make sure I keep the shoulders true.
Pilot holes drilled at the center of what needs to go. Tapered reamer bit was next to bring this initial hole up to final size.